i own a 97 pre facelift 1.3 carb made in czech felicia several mechanics could't adjust my car's idle when the car is cold i have to keep my foot on gas or the engine stops but when its warm it doesn't stop but the idle is never the same for 3 or 4 days everytime i adjust the idle through the carb it only stays for a day or two and the new thing now is that at idle the engine keep goin like this 600 rpm to 850 or 900 rpm in like 1 second and keeps doing that all the time and also if i while driving hit the gas suddenly it goes fine but then when i release the pedal the idle becomes much higher like 1300 and stays for a while then comes back to plying between 600 and 900 and sometime it stays at about 950 and i have to just hit gas and quickly release it then it goes back to the 600-900 thingy?? and also it used to consume about 10L/100Km urban now its more like 13L/100Km help plzz (note: no mechanic managed to fix that)ohh and also the lots of rubber hoses coming from all sides of the carb are not there coz i don't know what goes where??? but it was the same with no hoses when it used to cosume less fuel (b4 the accident)

Well, I'm afraid I can't help with this first bit, but I think the first thing you need is a schematic diagram showing all the breather hoses, so that you can make sure that they're right. You may not need them to be legal under Egyptian law, but the engine was designed to use them, so you need to have them, or know how to divert them, and what takeoffs to block to keep it running right.

Next, with a carburetor car, I would check that the spark plug and contact breaker points gaps are set correctly.

Do not proceed below this line until the breathers and gaps are correct

Once you've done these settings, we can start setting up the dynamic ignition timing. With the engine hot, loosen the clamp bolt on the distributor housing, and turn that slowly and gently until you get the engine to rev as fast as possible by changing this and nothing else. Now tighten the clamp bolt up again.

Now we can adjust the idle speed screw on the carburetor, to reduce the idle speed until the engine almost stalls out, then turn it back a quarter turn.

since u mentioned the egyptian rules that was going to be another topic i wanted to talk about but after i fix my current problem is the de-cat modification i am good with english but the terms u guys say..well i didn't have that in school so as far i have imagined is that de-cat is removing he catalyst box at the exhaust which cleans air for emissions test and so on i have been reading lots of topics and everybody does concern about emissions test i don't coz here in egypt there is no emissions test only if its smoking black or white like can be seen by eye that a problem other than that nothing

so i can get some custom stainless tubes fit at exhaust to silencer box and that's it less load on engine?!!

ohh and i am sorry again but i i don't get the breaker points gaps i did the spark plugs two days ago but what is the points breaker gap sorry but not familiar with the term... :(

correct me if i am wrong at anything after all i am here to learn from experienced people like urself

Well, I'd be surprised if a carburator equipped car had a catalytic convertor (cat for short) in the first place. If your only emissions test is a "visible smoke" test, you don't need one if you have one. The surest way to tell if you do or not is to look at the first 3 feet of the exhaust pipe back from the engine and see if there's an electical connection to a sensor. If there isn't, there won't be a cat.

The best explanation I can give of contact breaker (often just CB) gaps starts in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distributor and continues in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contact_breaker . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_system parts 1 and 2 give the basics of ignition timing, and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing explains what you are doing and why it is important.

Just in case it's not clear, the CB gap (which may also be called the dwell angle, but it's 2 ways of measuring the same dimension) is one control on when the ignition fires, and the distributor timing angle (also often called the distributor advance) is another one, which tunes the first one.

i followed the links i understood it i am waiting my haynes until then i think i can make an electronic (point breaker) instead of the cam and follower as i read the spring at high rpm's doesn't do the job and new systems has electronic i don't know what to call it but i can say that i don't think i will ever be able to adjust the dwell angle on my mechanical point breakers and i think its easier and more reliable to make an electronic one i did researches enough to get me started i will go buy the components 2day and i hope it works.....

Setting the points gap using a feeler guage between the 2 faces is one way of setting how long they stay open, and when they close relative to each cylinder reaching Top Dead Centre on the compression stroke. Setting the dwell angle using a dwell meter is just another (arguably more accurate) way of setting the actual gap between the points faces.

yaaaay it got it thanx u r the best