I'm just stripping down to do the above and I've got a few queries:

1) Draining the coolant - I've opened the coolant drain tap and about 3 litres has drained out. Given that the system holds 6.8 litres, half of it is still in there. I know a load more will come out with the pump - will this be as empty as I can get it before filling with new coolant or is there a way to get more out easily?

2) Timing and No 1 Cylinder TDC - is it common to find that the factory setting (this is 1st cam belt replacement) is a bit out? I've got the engine on the timing marks with the crank locked, but the cam sprocket is slightly off the position for the camshaft locking pin to go in fully. Also in this position, the belt tensioner pointer is a way off the centre of the tensioning notch. I presume that when I loosen the cam pulley and fit the new belt, I'll be able to nudge the cam slightly so that the locking pin goes in and adjusting the new tensioner will put things right? Just wondered if this is common or if my engine was never spot-on from new?

3) Refilling the coolant - is it essential to remove the temp sensor when refilling (to avoid air locks) or is this not always necessary?

Hi regards timing it must be out a bit, they are tight sometimes to get the cam timing tool in tho.

yes once belt is off adjust cam so tool fit and slackening the bolts of on the cam is for correct tension on the belt and also aid getting the belt on as there tight.

Once belt is on tension the tensioner so the pointer is in the correct position check the belt has good tension on the non tension side of the belt remove timing tools rotate engine a few time refit tools to confirm engine timed up and tension etc is ok.

hope this helps.

Draining the radiator doesn't drain the engine, that will drain out when you remove the water pump.

It will fill up no problems as the header tank with the air return pipe is the highest point of the system.

Hi regards timing it must be out a bit, they are tight sometimes to get the cam timing tool in tho.

yes once belt is off adjust cam so tool fit and slackening the bolts of on the cam is for correct tension on the belt and also aid getting the belt on as there tight.

Once belt is on tension the tensioner so the pointer is in the correct position check the belt has good tension on the non tension side of the belt remove timing tools rotate engine a few time refit tools to confirm engine timed up and tension etc is ok.

hope this helps.

Thanks for that. All sorted. Cam tool pretty tight to get in - the hole in the cylinder head can be tricky to locate. It looks like the tensioner pointer moves around a bit after it's been run. Mine was bang in the centre of the notch when set. After a road test it's moved to the right a bit.

Draining the radiator doesn't drain the engine, that will drain out when you remove the water pump.

It will fill up no problems as the header tank with the air return pipe is the highest point of the system.

Cheers for that. Yeah, about 5 litres came out altogether from the drain and the water pump. Refilled no problem without venting at the temp sensor - that would have been a right extra faff!

Finished the jobs no problems. 60k service, brake fluid replaced cam belt and water pump.

Decided I would swap the belt at 60k and not 4 years. The car is almost 5 and a half years old. Original cam belt (Contitech) was in mint condition as were the tensioner, idler and water pump (complete with a fully intact and as-new plastic impeller!).

Was using Skudmissile's guide along with Haynes manual. A few of things I would say if you are contemplating cam belt job:

i) No need to buy a special tool to set the tensioner - new ones have a hexagonal hole for a bit or allen key.

ii) The job is straightforward but quite time-consuming if you haven't done it before. Access to some of the engine mounting bolts is a bit awkward. A good variety of spanners/sockets is advised!

iii) You will need to make sure you have a suitable splined bit to remove the crankshaft pulley.

iv) I bought new engine mounting bolts (about £12) on the understanding they were stretch bolts but the dealer said they are not listed as such and their guys re-use the old ones.

v) Removing the RH engine mount entirely plus the coolant header tank is strongly recommended to give easier access.

vii) Don't bother renewing the auxilliary belt as a precaution - mine was like new!

Edited 3 September, 201114 yr by Ian M