Hi,

Just bought a used vRS, 4 years old (57) with 33,000 miles.

On both sets of keys the retractable / foldable blade part of the key isn't as springy as it should be.

By comparison the keys on our 3 year old 27,000 mile Scout are as new so I'm guessing the previous owner was one of those people who liked to constantly flick it in and out while it was in his pocket

The problem for me is that when the key is in the ignition the spring isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the key fob and my house key so it drops and rests near my knee.

I know the cost of a new key is expensive (£200+) and I have no intention of paying that but I did wonder if the spring is replaceable, that is of course if it uses a conventional spring?

Any ideas?

Can you just insert the key the other way up so you do not suffer flickers droop?

Flickers droop

Yes, I have resorted to this now (when I remember).

Despite this if it is possible to fix it without replacing the whole key I would like to try it. Just curious if anyone has had the same problem and fixed it themselves...

Its not the spring thats the problem. There should be a retaining pin which holds the blade in the out position. sounds like this pin has been broken on both sets.

The silver button is in the out position when the blade is closed to lock it in. When you press the silver button and the blade swings out the silver button stays flush with the key until the blade is fully out then the button pops up locking the blade in the out position.

I think you are right.

When the key is folded away and I press the release button it flicks out with the same force as a good key. To your point this would suggest the spring is good.

The problem is that I no longer need to press the button to fold it away; I can simply push the key past the resistance.

Interestingly the key still locks away with a click and still needs a push of the button to release it.

I'm guessing the pin won't be available as a spare part and this may be something I just have to put up with...

Have you tried taking the key apart ? It may just be muck or residue from the previous owners pocked (now theres a thought !!) blocking the hole the pin goes in ?

Sorry, I don't a screwdriver or tools to take mine apart at the moment.

Do a search on eBay for "skoda key". There are a number of people selling replacement key bodies and blanks for under £10. You could get one of these and transfer the blade (assuming it's ok), electronics and transponder.

So close yet so far!

I followed the instructions in the manual to open the fob to gain access to the battery compartment...

Unfortuantly this doesn't make access to the flick blade any easier.

I noticed this pin here, but I understand that this is simply used to remove the cut part of the blade so no good...

Looking at the plastic case it does appear that it can be opened as there is a join mark around its circumference but it's a tight fit and I'm not happy about forcing it...

I did a little research on the internet and found this UK seller offering (non-genuine I assume?) plastic cases for around £8 delivered. I can simply swap the internal gubbins and the blade over to get an essentially new key.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-flip-key-fob-3-button-remote-blank-HAA-/280741904718?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item415d85814e

Edited 10 October, 201114 yr by silver1011

Do a search on eBay for "skoda key". There are a number of people selling replacement key bodies and blanks for under £10. You could get one of these and transfer the blade (assuming it's ok), electronics and transponder.

You beat me to it!

Found this one...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-flip-key-fob-3-button-remote-blank-HAA-/280741904718?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item415d85814e

Will get one ordered and report back!

Well, here is how to open it !

seem to just pop open

removed vid as Wardy correctly points out there is a screw behind the badge.

That does seem a bit violent, notice that he never put it back together afterwards!!!

Ian

Can't see that vid at the moment, so I'll mention it anyway -

to get access to remove the blade, you'll need to remove the Skoda sticker on the back of the key, behind which you'll find a small screw. You can continue to disassemble.

Your key seems to have taken a pounding for that age and mileage though! As suggested, I would get hold of another similar key from another VAG vehicle and replace the bits that require it. Plenty on eBay.

You can also just buy the buttons if you wanted to give it a bit of rejuvenation on the outside too

http://goo.gl/Ikw6N

Yes, if it wasn't for the stamped service book, over the phone confirmation from the dealer and the MOT certificates then the worn keys would be a concern for a clocked car.

The spare is just as bad too.

For the sake of £8 I'll get myself a nice new one.

They aren't genuine but as I'm only getting the plastic shell and swapping my blade and electronics into it it shouldn't be a problem.

Anyone swapped the blade over, I'm hoping that once I release it that the pin will be good enough to use again...

The only other thing you might need to do is transfer the immobiliser transponder. I'm not sure what part the key this is in but if you spot a small glass capsule make sure that it goes in the new key.

Thanks stringbean, I'm about 90% sure that is it part of the electronic circuit board which looking at some YouTube clips simply clips in and out of the plastic case.

I'll soon know for sure when the new key arrives!

Well, I'm stumped.

New plastic key case arrived.

Opened up the worn spare key and swapped over the blade and electronic circuit board.

Clipped it all back together, went outside, unlocked the car no problems, ignition on, engine won't start.

Get the error message 'immobilizer active'.

Thing is I don't know for sure if the spare key worked prior to the swap over.

Can anyone confirm if the immobilizer chip is on the electronic circuit board? If it is then I've either damaged it when swapping it over or it was already bust :'(

Found the answer myself.

The key has three parts, the blade, the electronic circuit board and a small glass capsular immobilizer.

I hadn't noticed the immobilizer which explains why after I'd swapped everything over the new key wouldn't start the engine.

Unfortunately the immobilizer is tightly wedged and glued into the part of the key that was worn and causing the initial problem.

To get my new key to work it needed to come out but it was having none of it and I ended up breaking it

I'm so annoyed with myself, gone from having two worn but working keys to one worn working key and one new but useless key. Grrrr!

Anyone know if these are available separately from the dealer with an idea of how much?

To get my new key to work it needed to come out but it was having none of it and I ended up breaking it

I'm so annoyed with myself, gone from having two worn but working keys to one worn working key and one new but useless key. Grrrr!

Ahh no... Been there myself :( Its well gutting. What part is broken? I had a few spares from my broken keys in the end. Most are available online for not a lot.

Bit of an Art taking those fobs apart imo.

I broke the glass capsule which contains the immobilizer chip.

They are removeable with care but try as I might I just couldn't get under it to lever it out. A tad too much force in frustration saw the glass break :'(

£65.89 for a new key plus £40.00 to reprogramme it.

A costly mistake