I've fitted a JVC head unit, with Bluetooth - 50W per channel - double DIN unit.

It sounds somewhat better than the Skoda Stream, but the sound is still a little harsh, and dialling out the mid range and much of the treble can leave the sound lacking 'punch'. So now I'm going to try changing the speakers.

I'm looking for sound clarity - don't want to fit amplifier/sub woofer. So I'm looking for speakers to handle the 50W peak, pref. components.

Any recommendations?

I've fitted a JVC head unit, with Bluetooth - 50W per channel - double DIN unit.

It sounds somewhat better than the Skoda Stream, but the sound is still a little harsh, and dialling out the mid range and much of the treble can leave the sound lacking 'punch'. So now I'm going to try changing the speakers.

I'm looking for sound clarity - don't want to fit amplifier/sub woofer. So I'm looking for speakers to handle the 50W peak, pref. components.

Any recommendations?

Anyone tried Pioneer TS-170Ci?

Or JBL GT-6?

Pioneer TS-170Ci? realy good

Pioneer TS-170Ci? realy good

Thanks for the reply.

Did you fit them yourself? I think these come with some sort of fitting kit, and at least connectors?

Which head unit do you have?

Too late - I bought TS-E170Ci for the front. Sounds very, very good.

Going to fit the rears next month.

Edited 20 November, 201114 yr by El Dingo

Thanks for the reply.

Did you fit them yourself? I think these come with some sort of fitting kit, and at least connectors?

Which head unit do you have?

Too late - I bought TS-E170Ci for the front. Sounds very, very good.

Going to fit the rears next month.

How easy was it to fit the Pioneers to the front?

How easy was it to fit the Pioneers to the front?

Anyone know the answer? Is it easy to take off the speaker covers for the tweeter and woofer in the door of a Mk2 Octavia (2007 vRS) and put these in as replacements? Or will I screw it up as a first timer?

Thanks

Andrew

Sorry to be late replying.

To fit the Pioneers (or any 17 cm speakers/components) it's best to remove the door card:

There are torx screws at the bottom of the door, and one behind the tweeter grille (which unclips), as well as three large ones on the drivers side and two on the passenger side behind the door pulls. The door opener cable has to be removed (unclip the outer and swivel round the inner to release), and the lower door light connector removed (difficult to get fingers in on one side). On the drivers door, the red LED cable connector has to be disconnected. Now the door card can be put to one side, and the stock tweeters removed by drilling off the plastic rivets.

The mid/woofers are easy - just drill out the rivets holding the stock mid/woofer, disconnect the cable and remove. I used Autoleads Golf Mk 5 front adaptors, which need M5 screws/washers/nyloc nuts to fix in place using the same fixing holes.

The cross-over unit I mounted just underneath and forward of the Autoleads adaptor - it's just about the only place possible to fit this inside the door card.

The tweeter I mounted on the door frame behind where the stock tweeter used to sit. I used the M3 hole in the back of the tweeter and drilled and tapped a M3 hole in the door frame. Then I put in a M3 cut-off screw and nut and made a rubber washer a little thicker than the nut, and screwed the tweeter onto the door. The sound comes out through the grille as before, even though the tweeter doesn't sit flush to the grille, it sounds fine. Don't use the bezels supplied with the tweeters as this boosts midrange and makes them sound harsh (to my ears).

The rear doors are similar - however, you need Autoleads Golf Mk 4 front adaptors for the mid/woofer. It's not possible to mount the tweeters in the same way as the front (due to more restricted space in that area), so in this case I cut a tweeter-sized hole in the door card just ahead of the door pull and mounted the tweeter there (flush mounting, using the kit supplied with the speakers, and some silicone glue to hold them firmly in place). In the rear door, the cross-over goes above and forward of the mid/woofer, again, about the only place possible.

Wiring: Use the existing cables - cut off the connector at the mid/woofer and connect up to the cross-over. This cabling isn't long enough on the front doors, so I bought some blade type crimp/solder connector blocks (4 way) to join up the cables at this point, and 2 way for the tweeters (front and rear).

I recommend using the -3dB connector for the tweeters (again, for my ears).

I also cut and fixed some 1/2" foam between the door card and door inner skin - helps with road noise a lot.

Any questions, just ask.

Edited 15 December, 201114 yr by El Dingo

Sorry to be late replying.

To fit the Pioneers (or any 17 cm speakers/components) it's best to remove the door card:

There are torx screws at the bottom of the door, and one behind the tweeter grille (which unclips), as well as three large ones on the drivers side and two on the passenger side behind the door pulls. The door opener cable has to be removed (unclip the outer and swivel round the inner to release), and the lower door light connector removed (difficult to get fingers in on one side). On the drivers door, the red LED cable connector has to be disconnected. Now the door card can be put to one side, and the stock tweeters removed by drilling off the plastic rivets.

The mid/woofers are easy - just drill out the rivets holding the stock mid/woofer, disconnect the cable and remove. I used Autoleads Golf Mk 5 front adaptors, which need M5 screws/washers/nyloc nuts to fix in place using the same fixing holes.

The cross-over unit I mounted just underneath and forward of the Autoleads adaptor - it's just about the only place possible to fit this inside the door card.

The tweeter I mounted on the door frame behind where the stock tweeter used to sit. I used the M3 hole in the back of the tweeter and drilled and tapped a M3 hole in the door frame. Then I put in a M3 cut-off screw and nut and made a rubber washer a little thicker than the nut, and screwed the tweeter onto the door. The sound comes out through the grille as before, even though the tweeter doesn't sit flush to the grille, it sounds fine. Don't use the bezels supplied with the tweeters as this boosts midrange and makes them sound harsh (to my ears).

The rear doors are similar - however, you need Autoleads Golf Mk 4 front adaptors for the mid/woofer. It's not possible to mount the tweeters in the same way as the front (due to more restricted space in that area), so in this case I cut a tweeter-sized hole in the door card just ahead of the door pull and mounted the tweeter there (flush mounting, using the kit supplied with the speakers, and some silicone glue to hold them firmly in place). In the rear door, the cross-over goes above and forward of the mid/woofer, again, about the only place possible.

Wiring: Use the existing cables - cut off the connector at the mid/woofer and connect up to the cross-over. This cabling isn't long enough on the front doors, so I bought some blade type crimp/solder connector blocks (4 way) to join up the cables at this point, and 2 way for the tweeters (front and rear).

I recommend using the -3dB connector for the tweeters (again, for my ears).

I also cut and fixed some 1/2" foam between the door card and door inner skin - helps with road noise a lot.

Any questions, just ask.

Thanks! It sounds terrifying.... Is it safe to pay Halfords or a garage to do the work for me, do you think? Or should I try to find an ICE specialist somewhere? I'm a bit cack handed with mechanical stuff so I'm sure I'd break a crucial piece of door plastic at some point if I tried to do all that myself...

Andrew

Thanks! It sounds terrifying.... Is it safe to pay Halfords or a garage to do the work for me, do you think? Or should I try to find an ICE specialist somewhere? I'm a bit cack handed with mechanical stuff so I'm sure I'd break a crucial piece of door plastic at some point if I tried to do all that myself...

Andrew

Go for the ICE specialist. This is not IMHO a job I'd trust to Halfords.

If you live near London, CarAudioSecurity seems to be on the level. They are in Hayes, West London.

Edited 15 December, 201114 yr by El Dingo

Hi Andrew give Peter a call at VTS in Sevenoaks 07814029694 a genuinely all round good bloke who's workmanship is fantastic.