Hi

keep getting a bulb fail warning light on my dash but all the lights are working ok

so plugged I a OBD code reader into the socket (ScangaugeII) in case when the light next appears there may be a code also reporting ? long shot I know

Anyway this Scangauge also shows the temperature of the coolant amongst other things and during my drive to & from work today at speeds of 70mph on the motorway the temp would hover at 96 or 97 degrees C

if I slowed to 55mph temp would drop to 94'C

&

when I stopped and let it idle it dropped to 88'C

Just wondering if this is a bit hot ?

electric fan revolving ok though not fast & top radiator hose seems cool to the touch but couldn't get at the lower one

also wondering what would happen in the height of the summer if it gets to 97'C now in the winter with temperatures at 5'C ?

Its even worse on the 1.4tsi hence why I've gone for the uprated radiator

Coolant temp around the 90C mark is perfectly normal

But as he said, its struggling to stay at 90degrees when the outside temp is 5°or less.

Imagine at 25-30° in the summer how hot it would get.

Mine were hitting way over 100 in the summer, and scary high on track days

For the op worried remember that the water in your cooling system boils at 125 degrees C, so wayyyy off being too hot.

For the op worried remember that the water in your cooling system boils at 125 degrees C, so wayyyy off being too hot.

agreed, our merc ambulances are run on full throttle 90% of the time, and the temps are running 100 cecius most of that time, remember its under pressure is wont boil.... and some of these vehicals have over 350,000 miles on them...

most of my cars have run between 90-100 ... perfectly normal if you ask me...

My water temps now sit solid at a consistent,90°-92° ,whereas before I could get them rightup to the 120-125° region in no time driven hard. That was summer time though

My water temps now sit solid at a consistent,90°-92° ,whereas before I could get them rightup to the 120-125° region in no time driven hard. That was summer time though

has it ever gone into limp mode on you sy? what are your charge temps like ?

Inlet temps before used to go through the roof and took an age to recover after a WOT pull through the gears. My IATs tend to sit at 30° lower than before and recover so much quicker.

Not had limp mode, but had to repeatedly limit laps on trackdays to allow time for cooling

But as he said, its struggling to stay at 90degrees when the outside temp is 5°or less.

Imagine at 25-30° in the summer how hot it would get.

Mine were hitting way over 100 in the summer, and scary high on track days

Ok let me put it another way

Under normal load what ever the weather 90C is perfectly fine. My VRS sits around 90-95 at the moment and I generally drive quite spirited. The temp was no different in the summer with normal driving too.

thanks everyone for your excellent replies

According to Dave Vizards book on tuning A-series engines (so obviously highly relevent here ), hot engine is more efficient, cool engine is more powerful.

The thermostat regulates temperature by controlling proportion of water that is passed through the rad on it's way around the system, hence regulating the temperature regardless of ambient.

when people say theirs has gone above 90, has the needle moved past dead centre on the temp gauge, or are you logging temps with a computer? I driven my very hard (to the point of fading brakes) in very hot summer temps, and never seen the needle move past top dead centre...

Mine stayed on 90degrees before as well, but was actually floating around the 110-115 area. I did get it to move to the right on track a few times as well. Wasnt logging at the time, so god knows what the actual temp was.

I dont think its very accurate in the slightest. For instance i am now running an uprated radiator that has a 75% larger volume and running race spec coolant and my temp gauge still shows it as 90degrees. Logging the temps show im now around 20-30 degrees lower.

Mine stayed on 90degrees as well, but was actually floating around the 110-115 area.

I dont think its very accurate in the slightest. For instance i am now running a radiator that has a 75% larger volume and running race spec coolant and my temp gauge still shows it as 90degrees. Logging the temps show im now around 20-30 degrees lower.

Surely it depends where the respective probes are.

It doesnt matter though, they are where they are and VAG would have installed them where it was most important to place them.

My temps are now drastically lower and working at the optimum temp for longer without changing location of probes and sensors, so that backs it up

_________

edit

in fact, think ive misread you post. Are you refering to analogue and digital probes being in different locations? If so then i guess that could be true, although id imagine they use the same sensor

in fact, think ive misread you post. Are you refering to analogue and digital probes being in different locations? If so then i guess that could be true, although id imagine they use the same sensor

Yes that's what I meant, so maybe the dial measures block temp and the readings from elsewhere are water flow at thermostat for example. Obviously that's just a complete guess. I've no idea why they'd use different sensors, but IIRC the Octavia Mk.I climatronic kept track of (or at least had access to) water temp in several different places.

Wherever the temp was on mine it wwas still very high, and more than I would have liked