Skip to content

Couple of issues :(

Featured Replies

ive got 2 issues with my newly aquired octy.

First one is that when i start her, she will rev just over 2100rpm for a good 30-40 seconds then drop. doesnt matter if its hot or cold. is this normal as i used to have a golf with the same engine and i dont remember it doing that.

It also has a re-map if that makes a difference? SORTED

second is that the previous owner had new front discs and pads on the front just before i bought it, the day after i got it home the brake warning light keeps coming on but goes out when i turn the car off. ive had the brakes checked along with brake fluid and all is fine. could it be a dodgy sensor? SORTED

Thanks :thumbup:

ive got 2 issues with my newly aquired octy.

First one is that when i start her, she will rev just over 2100rpm for a good 30-40 seconds then drop. doesnt matter if its hot or cold. is this normal as i used to have a golf with the same engine and i dont remember it doing that.

It also has a re-map if that makes a difference?

second is that the previous owner had new front discs and pads on the front just before i bought it, the day after i got it home the brake warning light keeps coming on but goes out when i turn the car off. ive had the brakes checked along with brake fluid and all is fine. could it be a dodgy sensor?

Thanks :thumbup:

Hi there, these cars do rev slightly higher at first start up as it is the secondary air system kicking in which runs to protect the fuel / air mixture for the exhaust cat. It should go down to normal revs in under a minute.

Once car is warm though should not still do it, so you might have a temp sensor type issue. I would run a quick vagcom on the car to see if any errors are flagged up although sometimes the temp sensor when faulty does nor always through a cell code error

Your other issue could be a faulty sensor or a wire has been pulled on previous pad change that could cause intermittent warning light

  • Author

thanks for that.

il live with the brake light issue until it becomes less intermittant.

the idle will start up high even after switching off from a 40 min drive then straight back on. il see if any codes can be pulled up. do you think it will harm anything if its left alone as its not really an issue at the moment just curiosity :giggle:

if its reving over 2k mate id say there is a problem,

mine revs at 12-1300 on a cold start, then drops to 870 rpm I think mine is set to. might be a map problem? could also be a temp sensor but again it shouldnt rev anywhere near 2k on start.

the brake light sounds like the connector is buggered that the pad lead plugs in to or when it was removed they broke the wire. iirc its on the passengers side front wheel, have a look, see if there is any loose wires?

hope it gets sorted mate

billy

  • Author

doh! il see if theres any codes and go from there then. The re-map was done somewhere called Jabba motorsport. think il have to look them up and see where they are

peterborough I think it is, they are a sponsor mate. have a look at their site.

If they are close to you call them and see what they can do. they have been in the game a while so would be able to help a bit more.

you can PM them on here too, Jabba Luke is one ive seen about.

:thumbup:

The brake sensor is in the front nearside inside pad and its connected to the loom by a little multiplug clipped to the hub assembly, that may have come loose or a wire may have been severed.

  • Author

cheers il get that looked at.

peterborough is about 100 mile away, good excuse for a road trip :rofl:

il pop him a pm and see what he says first. its strange cos this morning its behaving itself and isnt going over about 1300 but drops within about 10 seconds which sounds normal.

puzzler :dull:

yup thats about right mate,

The IP mapped ECU I have in at the mo on initial start goes up to about 1500 but only for a split seccond when it catches, drops straight down to about 1300 for 10-20 seconds depending on how cold it is, then drops to 1100 for a few more seconds and slowly drops gradually down to normal over the space of a further 10-15 seconds.

Im sure they will be able to help you out ne way.

Yea they idle higher then quiten down all of a sudden. id say over 2k there is a problem though.

It should drop after 90 seconds, thats the time period the secondary air pump is supposed to run for.

Does it by any chance have the secondary air pump removed? (should be in front of the engine underneath the alternator if it's still there). I'm wondering if the previous owner removed it but didn't remove all the components or have the ECU map adjusted.

  • Author

hmmm il check for that tomorrow when its lighter.

  • Author

ok so hooked it up to a code reader and got P1296 which seems to point to the cooling system. Not sure if this is going to be related or not though, temp gauge doesnt go over 1/3 tho

The temp gauge should stay dead on 90 once its warmed up.

  • Author

ahh no it never gets to it, will go slightly over 1/4 on normal driving or 1/3 on motorway. il google and see whats what then

  • Author

ok so searching says coolant malfunction, ie temp sensor, thermostat or waterpump. belt and waterpump were done 2 yrs ago so dont think its those. im going to try temp sensor first as its cheap :giggle:SORTED

I've got a feeling if it never gets to 90 your thermostat is stuck open. Usually if its the coolant temp sensor that's the problem it just gives wacky readings. The sensor is a lot easier to replace than the stat though so I'd be tempted to do the CTS before the stat.

The waterpumps can fail prematurely, especially the plastic impellor ones

I've got a feeling if it never gets to 90 your thermostat is stuck open.

Thats what mine did :thumbup:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

done thermostat and coolant change and its all good, upto the 90 mark now :) bought a sensor that i dont need too so il keep it spare.

only problem is now is that my mpg has gone down now and the car feels flat until turbo kicks in, i thought it would have been better after the coolant temp it right???

after a couple of junctions drive on the m6 the mpg reading shown a max of 28mpg whereas before i did the same trip in the same manor and was quite proud at getting 37.6pmg.

ive filled the car and going to see what im getting but its deffinatly not right. starting to think ive bought a lemon here :(

is it a OEM stat? or a fleabay one?

Change the sensor as well as the stat

  • Author

its a stat from local motor factors. il pop the sensor on 2moz :)

  • Author

sorted the lack of power and mpg issue, there was a plug that had come undone off the airbox. not sure what it is but car feels fine now.

The thermostat that was taken out was closed so maybe it opened premature or something.... must be male :giggle:

:thumbup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.