Hi there,

I'm gradually getting on top of sorting out my 03 VRS, but a new problem started today as it is the first time I have run the car from stone cold.

The car appears to stumble/hesitate like a plug lead shorting out which gradually clears as the car warms up. Once warm, if I do a constant throttle run say constant 55-60 on a dual carriageway at 2-3000 rpm, it will "cough" for a second if I try to gently accelerate.

I have been reading a couple of threads about coilpacks, what are the symptoms of failure on these?, can they function intermitently?. I am not getting any warning lamps on the dash and the gauge readings are all normal.

Any suggestions anybody?. I've got it booked into Dartford Skoda on Tuesday for a new belt and water pump, should I get them to check this recall on the packs?. Car has 91k on clock with full Vindis Skoda history - last service at 89k

Many thanks

Might as well get the packs checked, they should replace them for free if they're the old faulty ones. And see if they'll stick it on the diagnostics and check it for codes. The rough running on warm-up could be a dodgy coolant temp sensor. Usually if a coil pack goes you can tell its running on only 3 cylinders

Might be worth checking the throttle body yourself see if its dirty, Skoda don't bother cleaning them at services. Cleaning it might help the hesitation and its cheap to do.

+1 for coolant temp sensor, coils packs are on recall anyway if thats the prob.

Sounds like coilpack failure to me.

Ask the dealer to check if it has the old black Coolant Temp Sensor fitted, & if it does get them to fit the revised green CTS as the black one will fail. It often doesn't show up on diagnostics as faulty, & I've heard many tales of main dealers missing it, which has cost the owner £££££'s throwing parts at the problem.

Throttle body clean on a 90k car is a must do. Easy job to do, but to do it properly you really need to remove it as it's the inlet manifold side of the butterfly flap that gets gunked up.

I strongly recommend that you find a good independent VAG specialist to service your car, & do repairs. Main Dealers get a very big from me.

Hi Pauldazzle, if the coolant sensor is failing, will it still give a normal gauge reading?. I'm fairly mechanically savvy, just had an accident 11 years ago that put paid to the heavy stuff - hence the dealers. It's just taking a while getting accustomed to where everything is on VAG stuff.

Thanks everybody for the replies

coolant temp sensor is a two pole type. One pole for the gauge and the other for the ecu (so gauge can read fine but ecu thinks it's 180 degrees c outside). As said, earlier black coloured sensors are a known fail point, later modded ones are green.

btw, if you go for a cts change, don't be suckered in to a cheap ebay item. genuine vag are not that pricey and last longer (several bad experiences by people on here with ebay ones).

You can find the CTS easy enough too if you follow the right hand hose from the radiator backwards towards the engine/gearbox.

As mentioned, get em to check the coilpacks as they should swap them FOC if the ones in there are genuine items.

Thanks everybody for the help, it really is appreciated.

Went into Dartford Skoda today, got them to check warranty recalls on the car, apparently it had a recall carried out in August last year. I take it thats it as far as warranty is concerned and now I am paying for coils if needed?

Can anybody give me a link to the area that deals with paying membership please, I think it is time to give something back for this sort of help, thanks.

Hi again,

just a quick question, my son used to run a highly modded SEAT LCR, and had a hand held code reader. to dump fault codes. Could I use this on my VRS?, fault is still there, am going to have CTS renewed at the same time as belt seeing as the coolant system is being drained anyway.

I was just reading another thread on boost problems which was saying about MAF failure. On my old car failure of the MAF meant full engine stop, what are the symptoms of failure and the car running on default fuel trims please?.

Also have a doorlock that is being intermittent on the o/s/r - reading thread yesterday seems to suggest terminal block on window motor?, do I take it they share a feed or connector for the door solenoid?.

Not having a good introduction to Skoda at the moment but I'm sure it will get better.

Thanks again for the help - just reread my reply above and it may have read as a put down, nothing could be further from the truth, I'm always willing to learn from clever people. Hopefully, one day soon I can return some help to someone else like me.

Edited 29 January, 201214 yr by kentphil1

Sorry to hear its got a few niggles - but stick with it they are great cars really.

Yes fault code reader will work, both the Leon and Octavia have the same OBD-II port on the Octavia its in the shelf under the steering column.

Symptoms of a MAF failing can be hesitancy or just rough running, you can also notice fuel consumption going up. If the car runs better with the MAF unplugged then the MAF is knackered as with it unplugged its running on a default set of values instead of the values from the MAF (which would be wrong).

Have a read of past threads re. The door, personally I'd be inclined to have a garage look at it and sort it out as I'm no good with wiring or soldering (find a VAG independent rather than a main dealer, it'll be cheaper) but a few people on here have fixed theirs themselves. If you leave it too long the door can be stuck locked and it's a pain to get the door card off to fix it.

Very kind of you to consider Freedom membership, the money goes to help Colin run the site. Click the subscriptions link at the top of the site then choose "Freedom". It's 12 quid a year and you should get a sticker sent through.

Hi,

I started to get stuck into this problem today. I did a dry compression test just to rule out any engine faults before I look at the electrics.

Figures are :- Cyl 1 11.38 bar Cyl 2 11.38 bar Cyl 3 11.24 bar Cyl 4 10.83 bar

I only did about a 5 mile run to warm car up so they may come up further when its very hot. Do this sound ok?, as Haynes is very low at 7 bar with a 3 bar differential.

I checked the CTS, there is already a green one fitted. the next plan is to remove the throttle body and clean it, Is it a definate need for VAGCOM after you do this?, as at the moment I do not have it.

I also found the hose that comes from the camcover to the air combi valve has a flat on it and is extremely easy to compress, is this normal?.

Thanks for your help

Phil

No need for a TB reset with VAG-Com unless you unplug the throttle body.

I'm not sure which hose you mean, is it the odd Y shaped one under the plastic engine cover? As this has a flat bit in it anyway I think?

(is it the top blue one here?)

http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/shopimages/products/extras/awesomebreathers.jpg

Check it for splits as this one is prone to splits. Awesome sell an upgraded replacement pair of the hoses marked in blue.

Yes thats the one. Do I take it that is the PCV Valve going into the T piece on the lower blue hose?

Thanks for thy link - are these the aftermarket good choice for these cars?, we used to have a similar type of supplier for the Nissan stuff.

Yes thats the one. Do I take it that is the PCV Valve going into the T piece on the lower blue hose?

Thanks for thy link - are these the aftermarket good choice for these cars?, we used to have a similar type of supplier for the Nissan stuff.

Yep that's the PCV valve. Awesome are one of the site sponsors so a lot of people use them on here, they're pretty competitively priced and I think if you say you're on Briskoda you get a small discount?

http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/

Welcome to the site and the fun of 1.8T ownership..

as previous posters have highlighted, make a start with the cheap stuff first, so get the TB cleaned. Easy enough to do but leave the eletronics plugged in and you dont have to worry about TB Reset. A breezeblock on the throttle can help to open the butterfly for propper cleaning, but use a toothbrush as if it closes on your fingers you will know about it (says the voice of experience)

Then look for leaky pipes, they will be Boost or VAC leaks and both will cause running issues and poor fuel consumption. Theres loads of info regarding this on the site (lots of it in my profile as I seem to have had most of the issues )

If you dont know when the plugs were last changed, change them. Same goes for the air filter.

As for the Y pipe some members have fitted catch tanks with just standard hose and T piece so you dont have to go for OEM or aftermarket Y piece (again loads of info on site)

Stick with it though as when all the gremlins are out the 1.8T is a great engine

Cheers for all the replies, I am going to resume hostilities on the car when it gets back from its belt and pump change tomorrow - unless the weather thies to turn me into an ice pop outside then it might take longer

Just driving to get my daughter tonight seemed to be a better drive after cleaning the plug insulators off during the compression test - time will tell.