hey guys i have a 02 octi vRS

it is suffering from a lak of power, sometimes it has no power and then bang it takes off kind like a vtec cross over but at random points in the rev range. its been in to my mechanic and he couldnt find anything wrong but says i have cheap coils which may be causing a problem or else he said there could be a problem with my ecu!!

when i sent it into him it had an engine light on and a fault code reading pressure loss between inlet mani and turbo, he checked vac pipes, intercooler pipes and all where fine, i have a new recirc bov (eom type) so cant be that. he cleared the fault code and gave it back to me problem still there, and after some driving it blew a coil. i replace cyl no.4 coil and the after 2 drive cycles.... engine light! all the while this power loss is there!

any ideas? this has been goin on for a while now and im going mad because of it,

maybe a blocked cat?

or will i just set fire to the thinjg lol!

please please help!!

cheers cill

Get the fault codes read again to make sure its the same ones, here's a good guide http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=159156.0

Mass air flow sensor? It sounds similar to an issue I had with a very similar fault code IIRC. Dont buy any ebay specials, I got mine from Europarts after discount and exchange unit refund It cost around £55.00.

the maf was changed there a year ago and it was with a spurious part so ya maybe thats the problem?

Also check breather pipes under inlet manifold, when i changed mine they fell apart as i took them off

Oh great! now the traction control light is staying on! maybe my ecu has just crapped itself!!!!

Also check breather pipes under inlet manifold, when i changed mine they fell apart as i took them off

Have to agree with this statement , breather pipes , the claw may be the problem

Sarah

checked all breather pipes and they seem fine?? im at my wits end with this car

i just cant figure out whats wrong with it

I had a friend with a leon cupra same engine as vrs and that had tracs light on and was caused by a faulty maf, we swopped mafs and it cured his straight away

cool im gettin a genuine maf of one of the guys on the site so fingers crossed it'll sort all these wierd things happening, tired of have a 180bhp car that isnt producing 180bhp and cant map it till things are sorted.

has anyone had any trouble with the n249?

Mine did the same with the TC light, once the MAF was changed and a few miles on the clock the TC light went out. Good Luck I am sure you will be happy again soon. I would buy new though if you can don`t forget the Briskoda Discount 25% from Europarts, although I am not sure if that is if you join Freedom.

Reading through.... Don't think anyone has mentioned unplugging the maf. If you unplug the maf and the engine doesn't change then you know its the maf.

Actually if you unplug the MAF & the car runs better then your MAF is goosed. If it makes no difference then the MAF is usually ok.

ya the first thing i did was unplug the maf still gettin boost flutter and strange power loss but ill change the maf anyway as it isnt genuine

i have a bosch one brand new for sale

Have u checked the dv as these are also weak point. And buy OEM sensor parts as non gen are very hit n miss and substandard.

Just bought a oem one off someone on the sight here actually! Have a new oem dv which has been in the car for about 2-3 months now so can't be that either lol im running out of parts to change!! Maybe n75 sensor? Do these cause trouble?

Just bought a oem one off someone on the sight here actually! Have a new oem dv which has been in the car for about 2-3 months now so can't be that either lol im running out of parts to change!! Maybe n75 sensor? Do these cause trouble?

If it's the 17705 code (I think this is the pressure loss code) then a new N75 valve cured my Octavia. That was after a new DV, checking pipes, unplugging the MAF, and all the other possibilities didn't work. Got to be worth a try for £50.

When I had this code, the car would run fine one day, and then sluggish the next, almost limp mode and did my head in for weeks.

Also, when I unplugged the MAF the traction light came on so I think that's normal. I drove for about 10 miles and realised the MAF wasn't the problem so plugged it back in but the car went a bit mad for 20 minutes with low revs and missing timing etc. It sorted itself out and was just the ECU adjusting to having the sensor back online.

Try the N75 valve if the new MAF doesn't work. Good luck

Same problem with mine. checked with scanner tool on braking system and code said to check engine codes. only engine code that it comes up is maf sensor.

Pressure drop between throttle & turbo is the dreaded 17705 code. First thing to do is check the DV is ok. ( remove DV push the piston up & put your finger over the small pipe on the top of the DV release the piston & it should stay up until you remove your finger off the top. If it drops down while your finger is on the top it's goosed). Check all the small pipes under the inlet manifold plate, & the S pipe that goes from the PCV valve to the underside of the inlet manifold which is absolutely notorious for splitting, & hard to spot without removing it. There are also 2 small braided pipes one of which goes from the fuel pressure regultor to the inlet manifold which again is notorious for splitting under the braid & impossible to see.

17705 will put the car into limp mode often straight from start up. Try recycling the ignition which should pull it out of limp.

Edited 25 May, 201214 yr by pauldazzle