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Battery Fuse Box - on way out

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looks like I've got the normal issue of a dodgy alternator cable going into my battery fuse box.

I'm OK with ordering a new box - but how are people fixing their alternator cables?

It doesnt look too bad, but was planning on stripping the cable back and crimping on a new connector - but does anyone know where I can get a new connector?

I just got a new cable from skoda, saved messing about

Same here, the new cable is thicker than the old one too (or at least it is on the TDI).

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had a quick look - cable looks tricky to replace?

Anything that goes near the manifold - I've still got nightmares about replacing the split breather!

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I've ordered the bits - when you lads popping around to help out? :)

Cable isn't that hard to do, a lil bit fiddley where theres a clip but that's all. Just make sure the engine is cold lol

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thanks Raf, we'll see how we go

Luckily I managed with just changing the box. Cable was well enough to be still used. Gotta keep an eye on it every now and then though to make sure the problem does not re-occur

Luckily I managed with just changing the box. Cable was well enough to be still used. Gotta keep an eye on it every now and then though to make sure the problem does not re-occur

It is generally the crimped terminal on the end of the cable that causes the problem. If you have replaced the fusebox, you have probably only fixed the symptom, not the root cause.

had a quick look - cable looks tricky to replace?

Anything that goes near the manifold - I've still got nightmares about replacing the split breather!

I did a mod to existing cable as it is normally the crimp end of cable that goes .

found here in techi section

http://www.briskoda....se-box-melting/

for folks who have just replaced fuse box, I would suggest you check cable/crimp to fuse box regulary and the fuse box crimp is not getting hot on tickover or running as that is a sure sign cable/crimp is suspect.

It is generally the crimped terminal on the end of the cable that causes the problem. If you have replaced the fusebox, you have probably only fixed the symptom, not the root cause.

Mine was in good condition. It was the connection between the cable and fuse that had failed, the nut had come loose. I applied thread-lock to it now, I think it'll stay together a bit better.

But it's good to know that the crimp part can (and will, probably :)) also fail, I'll have to keep an eye on it. Thanks for the info.

Edit: on a second thought, maybe I better take another look at that crimp... on the alternator end as well. Reading that mod-thread about the wire I realised it was just like mine had gone. Any one have the part number for the cable handy?

Edited by Sampolainen

I had the same and paid just under £100 for a new fuse plate and the alternator cable, which has a beefier connection than the original. You do get the whole cable assembly (not just the bit highlighted in red), including those various plugs coming out the side.

No idea how hard the fitting was, my mechanic said it was easy enough and charged me 30 mins! :thumbup:

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No idea how hard the fitting was, my mechanic said it was easy enough and charged me 30 mins! :thumbup:

where did you go? I'm near Bridgend..

Sure my total cost came to under £90 which was for box, cable and a fuse and that was from the local dealer

I bought the bits from Griffin Mill (my local main stealer), but the workshop reviews on here aren't good. I could have got the parts prices down a couple of quid but Griffin are 3 miles away and it was just easier.

I use S & S Motors in Ferndale for the fitting. It's a small place but they're meticulous. I also have an easy lift to work from there so it works out well. I wish I had a clue enough to do it myself but I'm "mechanically challenged" :giggle:

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