Stalling Skoda Octavia 1 vRS

[Sprucegoose]

Hey guys, my Octy has been giving me a weird problem

1> The CEL light is always on [i think it's an O2 sensor problem] will be confirming that shortly

2> When i idle the car the mileage drops drastically the mileage indicator [that shows Liters/100 km] will rise from about 8 - 12 liters to about 20 - 30 Litres for a 100 KM

3> When i have less than half a tank of petrol the car tends to stall

4> When i start up the car just after the engine starts i get this weird sound, sort of like the threads on the starter motor grinding against something.

5> When i accelerate, i get a hissing sound, is that just the turbo running properly or is it something loose?

I'm new to the skoda and I'm new to Turbocharged vehicles, so please excuse the Noobidity!

Thanks,

Shekhar

[chicken_eyebrow]

The hissing is probably the turbo acting normally, it can be a bit wierd if you've never driven a turbo car before.

The grinding sound is your starter motor, when they get old they tend to stick and make that annoying noise. You can take it apart and grease it up which may help for a few months but the only sure way to get rid of the noise is to replace it. It won't affect the running of the car if you leave it like that though.

The mpg change might be related to the O2 sensor problem as it uses the O2 sensor to estimate how much fuel is being burnt so once you've got the O2 sensor replaced and the fault code cleared the problem might go away.

As for running badly when the tank is low, it could possibly be due to poor petrol? I would put a bottle of Redex or some similar fuel injection cleaner in with the petrol maybe once a year as from what I hear the petrol in India isn't great quality so there might be contaminants in the bottom of the tank.

[Sprucegoose]

Thanks for the help man..

i will be meeting up with a fellow Briskodian today who has a VAG-COM setup, to check out what the CEL is coming on for.

And i'll invest in some Fuel Injector cleaning fluid right away

[chicken_eyebrow]

Dirty fuel might also have been the cause of your O2 sensor problem, if it turns out that is broken.

[Sprucegoose]

I just got the car checked with the VAG-COM

There is definitely an O2 sensor problem.

And a lot of other minor problems.

A couple of questions:

1> What is the "Comfort System" in the Instruments section of the readings below

2> What is the CAN Gateway?

Pasting the results:

Chassis Type: 1U - Skoda Octavia I

Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 56 76

VIN: TMBELL1UX4A025505 Mileage: 67610km/42010miles

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AUM.lbl

Part No: 06A 906 032 HJ

Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003

Coding: 11500

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: 6DDBEA0C278ADFB

TMBELL1UX4A025505 SKZ7Z0D2607420

2 Faults Found:

17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2

P1118 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2

P1114 - 35-00 - Internal Resistance too High

Readiness: 0010 1001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.lbl

Part No: 1C0 907 379 L

Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0101

Coding: 0001025

Shop #: WSC 00028 000 00000

VCID: 336F3C74512E49B

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 1Ux-907-044.lbl

Part No: 1U1 907 044 A

Component: CLIMATRONIC C 2.0.0

Coding: 11000

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: 30653378F038723

3 Faults Found:

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

35-00 - -

01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68)

37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)

37-00 - Faulty

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl

Part No: 1C0 909 601

Component: 31 AIRBAG VW51 0008

Coding: 13105

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: DDBB3ACC572A2FB

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1U0-920-xxx-17.lbl

Part No: 1U0 920 811 C

Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V13

Coding: 18122

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: 2E592D00EA0C643

TMBELL1UX4A025505 SKZ7Z0D2607420

4 Faults Found:

01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System

80-10 - Single-Wire Operation - Intermittent

01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

00462 - Control Module for Seat Memory; Rear (J522)

49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl

Part No: 6N0 909 901

Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001

Coding: 00006

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: F0E57378B0B8B23

5 Faults Found:

01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System

80-10 - Single-Wire Operation - Intermittent

01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

00462 - Control Module for Seat Memory; Rear (J522)

49-00 - No Communications

01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 29: Left Light Labels: None

Part No: 1U0 941 651

Component: EVG GDL + AutoLWR 0002

Coding: 00005

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: F0E57378B0B8B23

1 Fault Found:

01344 - HID (Xenon) Headlight

16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 39: Right Light Labels: None

Part No: 1U0 941 651

Component: EVG GDL + AutoLWR 0002

Coding: 00017

Shop #: WSC 00000

VCID: F0E57378B0B8B23

5 Faults Found:

01042 - Control Module; Not Coded

55-00 - Adaptation Not Successful

01533 - Terminal 56 (High Beams)

32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent

01346 - Wire to igniter Unit

16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent

01344 - HID (Xenon) Headlight

16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications

01344 - HID (Xenon) Headlight

37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl

Part No: 1C0 959 799 B

Component: 3Y Komfortgerát HLO 0004

Coding: 00259

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: 36690560125C5C3

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1U6959802D

Component: CF Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0202

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1U6959801D

Component: 3Y Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0202

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1U0959811D

Component: 3Y Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0202

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1U0959812D

Component: 3Y Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0202

7 Faults Found:

01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System

80-00 - Single-Wire Operation

00932 - Electric Window Motor; Drivers Side (V147)

35-10 - - - Intermittent

00932 - Electric Window Motor; Drivers Side (V147)

62-10 - No or Incorrect Adjustment - Intermittent

00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

00934 - Electric Window Motor; Rear Left (V26)

62-10 - No or Incorrect Adjustment - Intermittent

01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)

37-00 - Faulty

01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)

37-00 - Faulty

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 6Y6-919-283.lbl

Part No: 6Y6 919 283 A

Component: Einparkhilfe 0001

Coding: 00103

Shop #: WSC 00028

VCID: 468975A062BCCC3

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

[chicken_eyebrow]

The CAN bus is what it uses to read faults from the comfort system, the comfort system comprises the heated/memory seats, locks, lights, windows, air conditioning etc. Your engine fault codes just come direct from the ECU.

Looks like you need a new O2 sensor then. As for the other faults have you noticed anything actually wrong with all these things (looks like various problems with the air-con, locks, electric mirror and one of the Xenon headlights) as thats quite a lot of faults and I'm wondering if it's just an issue with the CAN bus rather than actual faults with all those things.

[Sprucegoose]

Well, the Right Low Beam HID flickers sometimes

The AC Cools properly, though when im idling for a long time with the AC on the car becomes sluggish, but i think that is an O2 sensor problem.

And the Right Driver's Power windows sometimes acts funny.

Everything else is cool..

The fuse box on the battery though looks like is in need of replacement, I read on the forum somewhere that if it is faulty it will return a lot of electrical problems.

[chicken_eyebrow]

You can open the fuse box and see if the alternator cable connection (the terminal at the end with red and black cables going to it) looks like these:

http://aijaa.com/001519509875

(you can see there is discolouration around the cable crimp and the nut on that terminal, if it has got really bad it will have started to discolour or melt the fusebox around it too)

This is quite a common problem and it could be behind 90% of those electrical faults you mentioned (but not the O2 sensor). The black cable can either be replaced with an uprated one from Skoda or you can cut it back and fit a new crimp on the end yourself.

[Sprucegoose]

Yup that's where the problem is...

The first connector (where the red wire) is attached is melting slightly and is slightly out of position.

Even the fuses are out of position because of some melting.

Can i fabricate my own fuse box, because Skoda in India is ridiculously expensive.

Considering an exchange rate of 70 INR per Pound Sterling, an O2 sensor will cost me over 300 pounds and a steering wheel over 500 pounds.

[chicken_eyebrow]

Wow that's insane prices!

I would see if you can get a fuse box off of a scrapped vehicle (Golf Mk4's, Audi A3s and Seat Leons should all have the same fuse box but I'm not sure if they're common cars in India). There must be loads of scrapped Skoda Laura taxis around though?

Failing that there are a few people on here breaking Octavias who could sell you a fuse box cheap and ship it out to you but I guess it would take a week at least to get to you.

Definately get the cable repaired or replaced first though and then at least the melting won't get any worse until you can get the fusebox completely replaced

[Sprucegoose]

will do, i found this site http://www.mister-auto.ie is it good?

108 odd euros for Lambda Sensor BOSCH (Ref: 0 258 006 245)

do you know any sites where I can search for stuff like that

Fuse boxes, AC vents, front grills, cup holders, etc?

[chicken_eyebrow]

Eurocarparts does plenty of stuff for the Mk1 Octavia but mainly engine bay components, brakes and suspension rather than interior stuff.

No idea what that mister auto site is like... You could also buy stuff on the UK version of ebay and get it shipped over but be careful what you buy and get a gaurantee as it'll be next to impossible to get a refund or return if stuff doesn't work and you're in India

[Sprucegoose]

I just noticed one more problem, my car is leaking water from the cooling system, every 3 - 4 days i need to fill water into the overflow tank.

I've checked the engine oil Dip stick and the cap, there is no sign of water droplets or moisture, so i'm inclined to believe that the Head Gasket isn't leaking yet

Is there any way to determine where the leak is coming from? I stuck my head into the engine bay after driving about 80 odd KMs, but could hear no hissing, saw no steam and there are no water patches below the car.

Edited 23 April, 2012 by Sprucegoose

[Raf_]

Found out when I did my cam belt that the water pump had been leaking

[chicken_eyebrow]

Other places to check are:

radiator drain plug + radiator body

large diameter coolant hoses around the coolant temp sensor housing

small diameter coolant hoses to and from the oil cooler plate

water pump housing (side of block)

If you're topping it up that often that's quite a lot of water to be losing and I'd expect there to be puddles under the car

[Grainne O']

I can't answer most of your problems as I know little about cars but having had problems with my o2 sensor (new one cost me 73£ + VAT + shipping, best price for a bosch I found; lambdasensors.com), I read up some on the problem and basically if your o2 sensor is stuck on "rich", so to speak, it gives erroneous instructions to lean out the fuel mixture, and too lean a mixture does cause stalling and stuttering. Not a first hand account, as my own lambda sensor was broken the other way and my car has never stalled, but hope it helps anyway

[Sprucegoose]

@chicken_eyebrow: there are no puddles under the car that i have noticed atleast.. will check again tomorrow.

I had a serious radiator leak in my old car, where i had to fill up water every 20 odd kilometers,

so what i'd do is drive to office [9 kms].

Work for a couple of hours

when i was leaving, i'd top it up again.

repeat the routine when i'd get home.

Didn't get it fixed for a long time because i just had no frikking time.. would be in office for about 15 hours a day

Will check all the points of interest.

@Grannie O': i think my O2 sensor is giving a lean mixture signal because my mileage drops drastically when i idle and low end power has dropped.

@Raf_: Thanks man i'll check that out in a couple of days.

Currently i drive my car every couple of days, because i'm all out of cash.. quit my job and all....

can't even afford petrol now !!

[Sprucegoose]

Hey guys,

I have 3 more minor issues, not related to the engine.

1> The Passenger footwell gets wet sometimes.

I read up and it appears to be a blocked drain somewhere.

How do i get the Skuttle cover off? i tried pulling it, but it didn't budge.

Does anyone have a pictoral guide / Video reference of taking it off?

2> Some water leaks from the Sunroof

Again i think it is a blocked Drainage pipe

I removed the A Pillar interior cover and noticed a red coloured pipe that appears to be the sunroof drains.

I stuck a wire down the tube from the drainage hole in the sunroof, but i think i loosened the connector, because where the A Pillar cover and the headliner meet is getting wet when i pour water into the sunroof. Water is also coming out from the rear mudflap.

3> The Sunroof doesn't go all the way back.

When i twist the knob to end [without over twisting it], the Sunroof goes back [Glass & Hardboard under it] but stops about 2-3 inches short of all the way.

If i then twist the knob more, it makes a noise without moving.

I have to Move the Hardboard by hand and then twist the Sunroof dial further to make the glass go back till the end.

is this a normal thing?

How can i remove the sunroof and the headliner [so i can fix the leak and possibly the semi Jammed Hardboard of the sunroof as well]?

As for the other engine problems:

The O2 sensor has been ordered and am waiting for it to come.

For the stalling problem, i mixed this liquid called System G that is supposed to clean out the fuel system and remove carbon deposits.

Still on my first tank of Petrol

And will resolve the Water leaking from the radiator when i'm changing the O2 sensor.

[chicken_eyebrow]

The sunroof behaviour is normal, it doesn't open all the way.

To get the scuttle covers off just get a credit card or something under and lever them up. Helps if they're warm but being in India that shouldn't be a problem. The water will be leaking in around your pollen filter so I would put loads of silicon sealant around the pollen filter mounting and maybe change the filter while you're at it

[Sprucegoose]

thanks..

getting down to it in just a bit !!

[chicken_eyebrow]

Here's one of the many guides that have been done in the past to getting the covers off, should help:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/223638-octavia-estate-scuttle-panel-removal/page__p__2631305#entry2631305

You probably only need to take one side off though if you're just doing stuff to the pollen filter.

[Sprucegoose]

Thanks..

Just what i was looking for