After performing a lot of maintenance tasks last week I have a question.

what have you guys done regarding ball joints when fitting these arms?

We tried fitting the Leon Cupra R subframe and arms but the ball joints werent right?

they go through the hub ok but there is a bit left sticking out the bottom and the top of the thread fouls the driveshaft?

we looked at swapping the balljoints for the original 4x4 ones but the bolts are smaller (8 vs 10) which means that as well as the ability to change the camber they could also move front to back under load so not a good idea.

we looked at drilling the original ones to take the bigger bolts but theres not really enough metal to chance it.

Cupra R ball joints with thread cut down and a washer to take slack up

Cupra R ball joints with thread cut down and a washer to take slack up

as volvomeg said!

or fit tt 4x4 hubs

as volvomeg said!

or fit tt 4x4 hubs

+ 1

I would change hubs so you get the benefit of the correct arms and hubs/ball joints combination.

ball aches!

I know on the VRS you need the washer but is it needed on the 4x4 as the ball joint fits tight into the hub just with a bit of the taper sticking out the bottom? So do I just need to cut down the thread?

dont want to spend more if I can help it, as the front end has gone nice and quiet since dropping the subframe and refitting I may just leave it for now, or sell the arms and subframe on?

ball aches!

I know on the VRS you need the washer but is it needed on the 4x4 as the ball joint fits tight into the hub just with a bit of the taper sticking out the bottom? So do I just need to cut down the thread?

dont want to spend more if I can help it, as the front end has gone nice and quiet since dropping the subframe and refitting I may just leave it for now, or sell the arms and subframe on?

TT balljoint should be direct fit into Octy 4x4 hub - no need for washer.

I've recently replaced my balljoints, but this was due to the poor quality of the Merle items - the rose-joint-type was wearing.

Now genuine VW items fitted. I didn't have to cut down balljoint to hub pin.

ps - you'll notice my wishbones are mount above wishbones not under - this is to fit inside my rotors

TT balljoint should be direct fit into Octy 4x4 hub - no need for washer.

I've recently replaced my balljoints, but this was due to the poor quality of the Merle items - the rose-joint-type was wearing.

Now genuine VW items fitted. I didn't have to cut down balljoint to hub pin.

ps - you'll notice my wishbones are mount above wishbones not under - this is to fit inside my rotors

? do you mean the wishbone is above the balljoint?

I am going to have a look on the weekend at just one arm to see what the issues were. I wasnt there when my mechanic was on the front end so did not see exactly what the fit was like. From what he described part of the bevel that goes into the hub was visible below? dont think that is a problem as long as the balljoint is tight into the hub. My main concern is the thread fouling the driveshaft.

I'd like these arms on my 4x4 but not sure what geometry settings should be used.

Same as TT I imagine? gives you a little bit of adjustment for camber

From what he described part of the bevel that goes into the hub was visible below? dont think that is a problem as long as the balljoint is tight into the hub. My main concern is the thread fouling the driveshaft.

If you look at my pic, you can see a ring of blue, which is a visible part of the ball joint pin teflon coating - the threaded top part of the pin is mm away from the rubber boot - but no contact.

I'd like these arms on my 4x4 but not sure what geometry settings should be used.

Same as TT I imagine? gives you a little bit of adjustment for camber

They need custom alignment on a laser 4wd geometry setup - hunter and the like

They don't actually give a huge amount of camber adjustment tbh. Better than the none-adjustable OE though.

The real benefit is the castor correcting superpro or whiteline wishbone to subframe bush - the flat accurrate steering, the extra feel you get through the front end of the car in general.

The real benefit is the castor correcting superpro or whiteline wishbone to subframe bush - the flat accurrate steering, the extra feel you get through the front end of the car in general.

Is it possible to use the castor bushes in the pressed arms as well? I knowthe solid bush that is already in the cast arms is an improvement over the voided ones in the pressed arms. I really need to get the front dampers changed now .

I will be getting full hunter dones soon as possible. Only had it done a short while ago so not happy as this time i actually have to pay for it

Is it possible to use the castor bushes in the pressed arms as well?

I have wondered this - not tried it, nor have I read of anyone else trying it.

I suspect the adjustable balljoint is needed allow for the changed geometry of the wishbone itself.

the castor bushes are not designed for the pressed arms iirc Karl just the cast ones, which are much stronger.

I wouldnt take the advice above as gospel by snowmuncher as his balljoints are not fitted correctly to the wishbones, this may affect the angle of the balljoint as it goes into the hub, which may cause issues like premature wear. Geometry only needs minute changes to have big effects. On stock non 4x4 hubs (ie vrs), the washer allows the taper of the balljoint to seat correctly, would be interesting to see if someone who has a 4x4 with the tt setup fitted properly needed the washer to seat the balljoint taper, or if thats something needed only on the fwd models.

Either way, if you are concerned, why not get the r32/tt hubs, they are a better design to the 4x4 and fwd octavia hub, and will allow for the correct angle of the wisbone when the balljoint is seated rather than creating what looks like negative camber like in the pic above. The ideal is a parallel wishbone to the ground, not one that goes up to the hub.