Working my way through bushes etc on the front

[KIDD]

How do folks,

The console bushes are fine, so what should I check next for the knocking? Is there a 'How to' or a guide for the anti roll bar bushes?

Many thanks

[Avalon]

As per the other thread, check the drop links and ARB bushes, that will take care of the majority of causes.

[KIDD]

Cheers, are there any guides on how to do these jobs? I'm happy using spanners and a big hammers...

[Chris Coates]

Drop links are dead easy.

Jack the car up, stick it on an axle stand, take the wheel off... Have the correct allen/torx set and a spanner handy... And loosen the nuts on the drop-link bolts either end (which join the ARB and the hub) off till you can remove it.

Then using the jack, lift the wishbone arm until you have the required length of your replacement drop link - thread the new drop link bolts through the holes between the ARB and the hub... And tighten appropriately.

Rinse and repeat for the other side.

Job done!

Meyle HD drop links are very good. And relatively cheap.

[Shadowphax]

How do folks,

The console bushes are fine, so what should I check next for the knocking? Is there a 'How to' or a guide for the anti roll bar bushes?

Many thanks

I've just been through a similar series of replacements to correct noisey suspension. There's instructions posted above for the drop-arm links. I used the Meyle HD ones as suggested. They are much stronger than the standard links.

I decided to have a go at the anti-rollbar bushes myself. I bought the bushes and the clamps that hold them from a dealers. Only about £8 for the lot. Take your chassis number so that they can get the right size. They looked smaller than mine but were the right size.

Jack the front of the car up and put on axle stands. Use axle stands either under the consoles or under the chassis members is OK if protected by bits of wood. Remove both wheels. Unbolt one end of the drop-arm links on each side. You can then move the ARB up and down. Any noises will show up.

You can get to the top ARB bolts but it is tight. I used a spanner as socket won't fit. I found that a spanner with no crank on the neck is best to prevent it slipping off. It's 13mm in size. I'd soaked the bolts with WD40 a few days before and they undid OK. You then have to spend ages slowly undoing them a bit at a time. Once loosened a few turns mine could be undone using fingers.

To get to the lower bolts, I jacked up the suspension arm a few inches from underneath the end of the arm by the caliper. This moves the drive shaft out of the way enough to be able to get a small socket and rachet in there so these undo quite easily. The ARB bushes and plates can then be romoved.

Fit the bushes around the ARB and then push the clamp around the bush. It is a bit of a pain to fit but does go on with the help of a bit of grease. You can then refit the bolts. This can either be easy or a complete swine. The first went straight in, but the second took a few goes and trying different heights with the jack under the suspension arm. PLEASE TAKE CARE AND CHECK THAT THE CAR DOESN'T SLIP OFF THE STANDS. I used various spanners, socket extensions etc to leaver against the clamps to get them fitted and the bolts to start to take onto the thread.

It took me about 2.5 hours but I wasn't rushing and kept having breaks for tea and to stretch the aching back. I could propbably do it quicker second time around. I'd guess 1-2 hours.

Car now sounds and feels brand new!!!

[KIDD]

Thanks for your replies folks, I might do the drop links first. Can I ask where to the drop links from? Also why do I have to jack the wishbone up if I havent done so to take off the OE drop link? Are the replacement ones the same length as the standard ones?

Many thanks

[Chris Coates]

It's easier to use the jack under the wishbone for support to make taking the drop link off a lot easier - and replacing for standard length drop links means if you've got it jacked up and supported... It's a very easy swap in/out.