Hi,

I need a new radiator for my Fabia, its an estate 1.2 12v. No aircon.

I've been told that there are two of different measurements, and i would need to ensure that i get the correct one. Does anyone know a part number for the one i need, or the measurements at all?

Cheers for your help,

Mark

The biggest cost in a rad swap is time. Measure the one you have or call the dealer and ask for the price/ part number. What's wrong with the one you have? If it's only a pin hole then K-Seal is worth a shot.

The biggest cost in a rad swap is time. Measure the one you have or call the dealer and ask for the price/ part number. What's wrong with the one you have? If it's only a pin hole then K-Seal is worth a shot.

K seal is the devils love juice.

Makes a complete mess of the cooling system.

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Really? The classic/MG owners I know swear by it as does my local motor factor who'd make a lot more supplying a radiator rather than bottle of K-Seal, Radweld on the other hand is awful.

Two sizes. 430mm X 413mm, 630mm X 413mm , latter mainly used with A/C

Really? The classic/MG owners I know swear by it as does my local motor factor who'd make a lot more supplying a radiator rather than bottle of K-Seal, Radweld on the other hand is awful.

Aye they swear by it as they constantly using it to prolong HGF.

I used it once as was emergency and once i got round to stripping the head down it had made a complete mess of the water ways.

Define complete mess? In much the same way as Skoda cocked up the mpi gasket/torque settings and revised the spec/gasket fitting the revised gaskets

makes the K series reasonably reliable (or at least you don't need to worry about the gasket again), it tends to be seen as one of the jobs you do as a preventative measure.

As to K seal personally i've not had a problem with it, it's stopped the pinhole leak on my rad, though in time it'll be replaced/flushed and I'll be interested to see what sort of condition it's in if I do the HG. It was loosing the difference between min and max every 3-4,000 miles, now it's back to using nothing.

Define complete mess? In much the same way as Skoda cocked up the mpi gasket/torque settings and revised the spec/gasket fitting the revised gaskets

makes the K series reasonably reliable (or at least you don't need to worry about the gasket again, it tends to be seen as one of the jobs you do as a preventative measure.

As to K seal personally i've not had a problem with it, it's stopped the pinhole leak on my rad, though in time it'll be replaced/flushed and I'll be interested to see what sort of condition it's in if I do the HG. It was loosing the difference between min and max every 3-4,000 miles, now it's back to using nothing.

It partially blocked the water ways and the header over flow. Just look about on the mg forums and k seal is a big no no.

Even the revised hg for the k has not totally resolved the issue.

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ECP with 25% discount mate got mine with a/c for about £50

It's a shame you don't know what the waterways/overflow were like before adding the product as that kind of determines if the K-Seal had anything to do with the partial blockage or not. From what I understand the product it only hardens when heated and then exposed to atmosphere (air) so i'm curious to know how it solidified in the waterways as the last thing you should find in them is air.

Either way the local MG club rate it, they're the same people who when they buy an MG splash out on the HG/pump/belt and the coolant level sensor fitted (only late TF's had it iirc) before they do anything else. My local factor (who also has a TF) uses it and flogs it to the trade. I know one of his clients and asked the question before I put it into my cooling system and was told it's usually only offered when the customer is unwilling or unable to get a HG done, they've done a few HG's after K-Seal was put in the system and haven't had any problems but much like coolant I suppose it depends on what's in the system and what sort of state it's in, how often do you see people mix G11 and G12 or ignore the change interval.

ECP have 30% off atm so it may be time to price up a rad in time for winter.

It's a shame you don't know what the waterways/overflow were like before adding the product as that kind of determines if the K-Seal had anything to do with the partial blockage or not. From what I understand the product it only hardens when heated and then exposed to atmosphere (air) so i'm curious to know how it solidified in the waterways as the last thing you should find in them is air.

Either way the local MG club rate it, they're the same people who when they buy an MG splash out on the HG/pump/belt and the coolant level sensor fitted (only late TF's had it iirc) before they do anything else. My local factor (who also has a TF) uses it and flogs it to the trade. I know one of his clients and asked the question before I put it into my cooling system and was told it's usually only offered when the customer is unwilling or unable to get a HG done, they've done a few HG's after K-Seal was put in the system and haven't had any problems but much like coolant I suppose it depends on what's in the system and what sort of state it's in, how often do you see people mix G11 and G12 or ignore the change interval.

ECP have 30% off atm so it may be time to price up a rad in time for winter.

Had the car from nearly new so knew it was the k seal. With the amount of air being sucked about it was possible to harden it. Also the bits that where left in the coolant around the liners was unreal. Anyone with knowledge of the k emgine knows k seal is a big no no. As the water ways are extremely small to start with.

I have not long sold my mgzr car forum so know pretty much a fair bit about them. And also pretty glad to get away from it lol

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