Went out for a blast and took some readings:

First one is Air flow vs RPM, I did this as there is a calculation where you divide the highest reading by 0.8 and it roughly gives you your BHP so I've read anyway. My highest was 181g/s which = 226 bhp, i'm not to convinced its that vlose but people think its quite accurate (google MAF to BHP and theres a few topics on it)

Next one was Boost vs RPM, Pretty straight forward, my peak was 21.6 psi

And last one was timing vs RPM, this is the one I would like a bit of info on, if anyone could say if its right or wrong would be good.

Also had a go with the accelerator calculator, Best result bellow, once again its not going to be as accurate as a gps logger but gives an idea.

Tuesday,07,August,2012,20:07:09:21494

OBD

Metric units

0 to 100 km/h: 5.9 +- 0.28s

US Units

0-60 mph: 5.5 +- 0.28s

I find it easier to read straight from the log tables. If you email me them ill have have a look at them.

I wouldn't look at the timing advance that no use really. What you want to see is the timing pull. If there's less than 6 degrees retard its OK generally, perfect scenario is zero timing retard.

The 0.8 factor was accurate for the 2.0TFSI. Not sure if the same factor is used for the 1.4tsi. Maybe email ross tech and ask.

Cheers Sy, I'll send them over when I get home. I did see something about knock retard, that's the one isn't it?

The other thing was, you know when you select the engine controller, my measuring blocks button was greyed out, I had to use the advance one or go to the home screen an use OBD-II functions where you can read data there, is that normal?

Good thinking I'll email Ross tech about the 0.8 factor.

Nice to see people logging. Can you log EGT and short term fuel trims?

Yes! Will have a go at a few more different ones next time

This maybe a method of checking:

http://www.060calculator.com/

Went out for a blast and took some readings:

First one is Air flow vs RPM, I did this as there is a calculation where you divide the highest reading by 0.8 and it roughly gives you your BHP so I've read anyway. My highest was 181g/s which = 226 bhp, i'm not to convinced its that vlose but people think its quite accurate (google MAF to BHP and theres a few topics on it)

I may be wrong but this is the max theoretical horse power to be achieved using the amount of oxygen in the amount of air (g/s) burning fuel under stochiometric A/F ratio. This releases all the energy in the fuel. Engines always run with some excess air to prevent fouling of the engine with not fully burnt fuel/oil.

As said it gives a rough idea and ross tech said it wouldn't be to far off, what I should do is run the car stock measure the air flow, then try again with the map turned on to give me and idea of improvement

Yes, that is one way of doing it-can't burn more air than it sucks in, huh?

To get a good measure what the engine is doing is to have high quality wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust (lambda probe-never had memory for those things...) to check how much oxygen is actually left. Then you can tell what the engine is actually doing. Visual inspection of spark plugs and check of cylinder pressures are also bare minimum for a tuner worth his salt. When I was doing 4-stroke karting engines cylinder pressure was the god of all things as without it you could tune the engine untill you blue I you'r face and a bloke with near standard engine with sick cylinder pressure would still put you to shame. If you after power tell them to advance the ignition as much as they can. if you after torque then retard it.

I can just imagine the APR calibrators thoughts when a customer phones them up advising them how to make more power on their map lol.

If your after power tell them to advance the ignition as much as they can. if you after torque then retard it.

But Torque and Hp are directly proportional to each other. If you have more torque at a given RPM then the Hp must be higher. and vice versa.

So if like you say advancing timing gives more power, then the by product will also mean more torque.

Hp= (Torque x RPM)/5252

I can just imagine the APR calibrators thoughts when a customer phones them up advising them how to make more power on their map lol.

But Torque and Hp are directly proportional to each other. If you have more torque at a given RPM then the Hp must be higher. and vice versa.

So if like you say advancing timing gives more power, then the by product will also mean more torque.

Hp= (Torque x RPM)/5252

I think you'd like to rephrase it .

Look at your dyno plots and see what is the relationship of torque and rpms...

If your torque is all in the lower revs (retarded timing) the engine will be very "torque biased". If your torque is held or tops out at higher revs (advanced timing) then there will be more power produced. Maths and physics are incapable of lying.

APR tuners are not physics defying gods and can't work outside it and met plenty of "specialist" who actually had rather "shallow" knowledge based mostly on empirical knowledge (perhaps your friends from Shark ? ) and find themselves out of their depth when they hit a problem they never encountered before. In my line of work I meet such ppl everyday unfortunately...

out of interest can i ask what your job is?

APR tuners are not physics defying gods and can't work outside it

oh, im not saying they are, but the likelihood is they are infinitely more experienced than 99.9% of the forums members with regards to tuning a car, hence why i choose not to question what they do. Same goes with Shark. I might not have the best experience with them on this car, and wasnt happy with what i had, but i wouldn't begin to tell them how they should have tuned my car because there is a damn site more than just increasing boost timing and fueling and its way above my level of knowledge.

Best way to learn first hand about tuning four stroke engines is to buy a twin engine (Honda GX160 up to GX250) kart and have play with it. Principles are exactly the same so when you dismantle and rebuild such engine dozens of times with different mods in-between and if you have something more than 80% water between your ears then you will have no choice but to understand dependencies between certain settings and parameters of a four stroke engine. When I see a tuner developing an engine map by fiddling with ECU settings on his laptop only then I steer clear...