Morning all, my n/sr/r door wont open the others work ok but when i press the remote i can hear something isnt quite right,ie a sticking/jamming noise [solenoid possibly]? i googled the question and it reveal several similar posts from this forum but none which actually gave a definitive answer [if there is 1] so any help appreciated

cheers Mark

If the lock is still firing then i suggest stripping the door down from the inside, bit tricky but it can be done, take the door carrier out, then play with the lock mech like i did and eventually it freed up.

If you dont want to do it a garage will charge you a fortune.

Cheers for the reply, i should have mentioned it was intermittent but now its permanent or has been for the last week! the internal 'knob' doesnt lift at all now, was very tempted to give it some size 9's this morning

sounds like it's deadlocked, happened to mine. Have a look at this thread

I've got the same problem, the rear door doesn't unlock. I managed it once but cant do it any more. I will have a go at vibrating / hitting the door gently whilst unlocking to try to open it. Then try the wires behind the B pillar.

If the solenoid is dead is it possible to get the door card off from the inside with the door locked? Doesn't look like it will be easy..

It's sometimes possible to open them with an assistant. With the engine running (for extra voltage), someone sitting in the front toggling the lock switch one way and the other while you bang on door with a fist and pull on the handle. That's worth a try but more often than not you need to take the interior door panel off (tight but possible), support the window, remove the window regulator/console and smash the lock to pieces with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver until it releases. Obviously it's worth check voltages at the lock before you smash it but that's usually what it needs.

Tried all sorts of different things on mine and it turned out to be deadlocked.

Such a pain in the arse to sort out too!

Thanks Seccy, sounds like I will be able to do it one way or another. I guess I should buy a lock before I start taking things apart too much.

I've found this guide which might be useful

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?129206-Fabia-I-%282003%29-%96-Failed-door-lock-on-rear-offside-passenger-door-Unable-to-unlock-or-open

This bit is interesting, seems to say you dont need to destroy the lock?

** WM 58-1 pg 5 to 8 If the lock is still jammed due to an inoperative motor, it should be possible to release the dead lock mechanism (57-1 page 8 of Workshop Manual) by moving the lever, in the direction of the arrow by pulling the control rod to in the direction of the arrow. The diagram shows the mechanism in the open position. In the closed position the release lever connected by a short cable to the outer door handle is baulked and cannot be released. Pulling on the operating rod should release it. A small amount of restance should be felt as the motor is turned. Fortunately I did not have to do this but by trying with the deadlock lever on my old lock I think it should work.

Right ive got it unlocked!

The most useful tips were to do it with the engine running to get more voltage to the motor. Also to vibrate / slap the door until it unlocked.

I've taken the door card off.

It's quite a complex job, I asked Skoda how much it would cost them to do it. £125 for the lock and one hour to fit at £78. If I couldnt unlock the door you can add another 2 hours to that!

I have taken the fuse out for now and discovered that I can lock and unlock the door manually with the fuse out!

Might save a LOT of hasle for some people knowing this! Before taking things apart try taking the fuse out and using the handle!!

I've decided to disconnect the door lock electrical connector and revert to manual operation on this door and just not worry about it. Saves a lot of money and hassle.

The next job is to take the B pillar cover off as I beleive I can disconnect the door motor from there, not sure how to do this though!

Edited 23 November, 201213 yr by Dunkuk

Right I didn't need to take the door pillar cover off, turns out I could access the connectors by prising off the rubber cover that takes the wires from the body to the door. So easy job, just disconnected the 3 pin connector (pink/yellow, green/yellow and blue/yellow) Ok so now if I have a passenger in the back I have to unlock the door for them but it takes 2 seconds, and i saved myself £200. Or the bother of stripping the door down, taking the window out, installing a new lock etc.

Had same problem on Mk2 fabia. (2006)

Have someone start the car and operate the lock/unlock buttons on the drivers door repeatedly.

Take a lump hammer and use the shaft end to hit the rear door several times using something to protect the paint work. (car mat for instance).

Choose a point of impact at about 8 o'clock to the rear door handle push button. 30 seconds later I was in!.

I can get to the door lock now and replace it. 

Horrible problem this

On ‎2‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 12:50, Epignosis said:

Had same problem on Mk2 fabia. (2006)

Have someone start the car and operate the lock/unlock buttons on the drivers door repeatedly.

Take a lump hammer and use the shaft end to hit the rear door several times using something to protect the paint work. (car mat for instance).

Choose a point of impact at about 8 o'clock to the rear door handle push button. 30 seconds later I was in!.

I can get to the door lock now and replace it. 

Same technique as the fonzy method. Works every time. I learned this method off a whippersnapper with a VW Lupo.