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White smoke & no power, and possible a cylinder down?

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  • Author

Forte injector cleaner would be my bet matthew.

If you're around wilts give me a poke if you've still got my number and I'll try and sort you out with a VCDS scan from a new full fat version.

I take it on the turbo, you've tried the Mr Muscle clean too?

Still in Dorset, Wiltshire and Somerset :-) I have a number in my phone for you, assuming you haven't changed it... back at my parents currently so I'll give it a scan with my old version (with PCMCIA serial port card....)

Cheers :-)

  • 8 months later...
  • Author

I was rather lazy and ignored this problem.... and it came back again.

 

Defo only seems to happen when the engine is cold, pulled out of the carpark at work, and accelerated down a road on site, got to about 3k in 2nd and then all power backed off, and we were back to the normal clouds of white smoke.  Pulled over turned the engine off, waited 5-6 minutes and then it restarted and was ok (immediate stop/start and it was still rough).

 

Scanned for codes the following morning, and I just had the overboost fault (and I knew it did that - a few days before hand).  Guess I'll have to have another stab at sorting this out.

Been pondering this while mowing the lawn. Could it be it is either over fuelling or the timing goes all to pot. The first could be dodgy sensor (CTS, map or maf), the second could be the injection playing up.

Obviously you can't check the timing when it happens as the engine is cold, but what is it like normally? Option number 2 would be more expensive.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

  • Author

I have never checked the timing, so I will have do that.  My normal VAGCOM laptop (serial port) has a pretty naff battery so I might ave to find an invertor to keep it running while I complete the test.

 

I changed the CTS a few years ago, and I have checked its readings when cold and they seem to read as expected.  MAP I have never touched, and the MAF I have attempted to clean once, but not changed it.

It only takes a minute or two to check the timing but the engine must be hot. Ross tech also have a dire warning against powering the laptop running VCDS off the car be scanned.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

  • Author

I assumed using an inverter would be fine?!  I assume they don't want you extracting a pure 12v from the battery and feeding that into a laptop directly.  I can do it at work tomorrow, as she will be nice and warm after a 60 mile drive in - if the worst comes to the worst I can drop an extension cable out of the office window if the battery does go flat. 

 

I assume this timing check is built into the older versions of VAGCOM (as I only have 3.0.3, or something like that)

Check the coolant temp the ECU is seeing when the engine is hot too.

I assumed using an inverter would be fine?! I assume they don't want you extracting a pure 12v from the battery and feeding that into a laptop directly. I can do it at work tomorrow, as she will be nice and warm after a 60 mile drive in - if the worst comes to the worst I can drop an extension cable out of the office window if the battery does go flat.

I assume this timing check is built into the older versions of VAGCOM (as I only have 3.0.3, or something like that)

Look on the Ross tech website it explains filly on there.

I would also assume that the TDI timing checker is there, its a separate programme but you start it through VCDS.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

  • Author

Grrr.... Got to work, popped into the office for 5 minutes, went back to car with laptop - coolant at 80.1 (phew!).

Could not remember what to do, popped back into office - read instructions, went back to car, found the timing option and then the coolant was too cold.  Surprised that the coolant temp dropped so quickly, and then the laptop went flat.  Not my morning!!!

 

I'll charge it up and try again tonight when I get home, and have an extension cable handy - must only get 5-7 minutes from the laptop (if that) when fully charged :-(  Still it was free and it does have a serial port :-)

Do you have a black or green CTS fitted?

  • Author

I fitted a green one, pretty sure it used to have a black one (it is still probably rolling around in my glove box).

I fitted a green one, pretty sure it used to have a black one (it is still probably rolling around in my glove box).

Genuine VAG?

  • Author

CTS was genuine VAG - got it from my local Skoda dealer (unless they are selling knocked off tat!)

 

Right, just grabbed these images.  It looks my timing is too advanced - I noticed I can't select the engine type with my old version of VAGCOM.  Got home after a 60ish mile commute, mostly at NSL, with the last 6 miles at 30ish (through town) before reversing into the garage and connecting up the laptop.

 

timing1.png

 

timing2.png

 

timing3.png

Temp looks spot on. Have a look at the timing in measuring block 4 (torsion value/synchro angle IIRC).

Here is what the limits should be for the ASV engine

 

m4b8.png

Not sure you can totally trust the timing checker in VCDS, it comes up the same as yours in my ross tech registered VCDS, although the cambelt was just replaced using VAG setting tools & the synchro angle is spot on in measuring blocks.

My AVF engine doesn't come up in the drop down menu for the timing checker either! Wonder if thats why I get the same timing too advanced as you?

It's a TDI (i.e VEP) Timing Checker - your AVF is a PD.

  • Author

to be fair, I have changed the cambelt twice (and it was changed before I bought it), and I have no idea if it was ever set up properly.  I have just "locked" the pump with a 5.5mm (iirc) drill bit  :think:  

 

I'll check block 4 tomorrow - assume the engine doesn't need to be warm for that (as I am working from home tomorrow).

 

Thanks for your input so far guys :thumbup:

You will be surprised how little movement of the pulley is required to give a relatively big change in the timing.

 

It is easy enough to do though, assuming you aren't right at the end of the adjustment slots.

You will be surprised how little movement of the pulley is required to give a relatively big change in the timing.

 

It is easy enough to do though, assuming you aren't right at the end of the adjustment slots.

I can testify to that it's just a few milimetres.

To check the timing on your ASV, you need to get your car up to temp and be able to select basic settings for group 0.

If you can do this, but don't have the TDI Timing Checker, then PM me and I'll send you target SOI vs fuel temp in terms of field 2 and 9 values.

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