OctyI RS with Porsche GT3 6pot calipers nad 350x34mm driled floating discs

[davojuri]

Just in a process of ordering

PORSCHE GT3 996 6POT CALIPERS, AND PORSCHE FLOATING TWO PIECES 350X34MM DRILLED DICS WITH ALU HAT

It is hard to find and those who is selling it are owerpriced and they warn you about rattling etc.

MBT engineering offers kit for 3650 euro

but they didn't convert the caliper to have bleeders on upper side and connection pipe on lower side of it-MOST IMPORTANT TO HAVE PROGRESSIVE PISTONS LINED FROM THE SMALLEST TO THE BIGGEST IN DIRRECTON OF ROTATION.

Than I went ower internet and found http://www.ultimot.de/

They offered me that kit but on 365x34mm discs usually ussed for RS4 calipers that are not so wide as GT3 ones.

Susspicious I was. They have great RS4 365x34mm kit for 2473 eur

what was my second option , and also Cayenne one for 2203 eur what is the same price as ECS tuning stage V.

http://www.ecstuning...ng/ECS_Stage_5/

But I wanted GT3 calipers-maybe the best on the market.

I discovered this site:

http://vandit-perfor...age-fur-golf-4/

this kit is 1400 eur, but the centre hat will be black anodised aluminium, floating round bobins (200 eur more for T/H type ones)

900 euro for a set of new GT3 calipers with remanufactured new connection line as here:

of course I will ask for more accurate corners and rubber protection like on OE ones:

here on profile pic you see it cant be only switched with bleeding valve it has to be shorter and not bent.

installation kit included

and he is offering RS14 BLACK OR RS29 YELLOW PAGIDS, BUT THEY DO NOT NITE FROM COLD LIKE NEW EBC BLUESTUFF NDX DOES FROM 0-900C DEGREE

and found them for really good price here

http://www.bremsstau...16060#EBC116060

CAN'T WAIT TO GET IT AND TEST IT HEHEHE

[davojuri]

Also will add some air vents to the brakes like this ones:

[missingmyvrs]

you need to enlarge your mastercylinder to run some of those

found the ap 6 pots to be one of the best i have ever had as they are a perfect match to our mastercylinder size ;-)

[davojuri]

So final price will be

1400 eur for the kit-discs, adapters, hardware, lines

900 eur for the calipers and installation kit

234 eur for brake pads

2534eur and 30 eur for shipping to Slovenia!!!!

Don't forget OE Porsche prices are 950 eur for one caliper only!!!!

[missingmyvrs]

you could g for a comprake setup and get one of us on here to post out to you ;-)

[davojuri]

you need to enlarge your mastercylinder to run some of those

found the ap 6 pots to be one of the best i have ever had as they are a perfect match to our mastercylinder size ;-)

any link to them?

Think they are more expensive.

But anny suggestions regarding master cylinder upgrade?? There are guys with RS4 365x34mm 8pot setup without upgraded master cylinder and great braking.

[davojuri]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3854717

no master cylinder upgrade

[davojuri]

you could g for a comprake setup and get one of us on here to post out to you ;-)

any link to that system?? Couldn't find it before.

But master cylinder upgrade i am interested for more info.

I haven't still paid nothing so there is enough time for change of my mind due to your suggestions.

Help appreciated

[davojuri]

Found this one

http://www.compbrake.com/skoda-octavia-mk1-335x32-pr6-6-pot-brake-kit.html

Must say crazy good price if they are good in real life

[davojuri]

So front one purchased and paid and now for the rear

first step will be to use one of the

Ultimot Berlin disc upgrade 310mm (536eur) or 330x22mm (596eur) with brackets for OE calipers

http://www.ultimot.de/ or MBT engineering

mbt Audi RS4 B5 - 312x22 [mm] Hinterachs Bremsanlage

Than ECS Big Brake Kit - Stage 1 Version II

Cross-drilled & Slotted 12.1" Zinc Rotors with 337/20AE Calipers

http://www.ecstuning...ge_1Rv2/ES4519/

http://www.awesomegt...ar-golf-mk4-etc

http://gt-power.net/index.php?page=product&info=1035599

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271159489841?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Compbrake, despite negative feedbaclk on internet, just as a info offers complete kit with 4 pot calper and separate handbrake:

SKODA OCTAVIA MK1 PRO-RACE 4 4 POT (330x20mm) & H/B CALIPER REAR BRAKE KIT CMB1006

http://www.compbrake...-b-caliper.html

or here iwth the pics

http://www.compbrake...conversion.html

http://gt-power.net/index.php?page=product&info=1035598

from 1248,00 to €1,128.07

And here is some from my dealer Vandit performance

that is the one I will probably go for

and here some RS3 ceramic rear upgrade

MBT does it with integrated handbrake in the bell

mbt Porsche 911 (996) Carrera Hinterachs Bremsanlage

mbt Porsche 911 (996) Turbo Hinterachs Bremsanlage

hope it's detailed enough

Edited 10 March, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

So finally I've collected all my big brake upgrade parts

brake pada are EBC NDX Blue Stuff

mounting hardware

installation hardware

some new braided ss lines

some new connection lines:

This must be done in attempt to retain progressive order of pistons ie from smaller to bigger ones. On Porsche GT3 caliper sits behind the wheel and in Golf 4 platform in front of the wheel and if you only lide caliper arround the wheel you will have connection pipe at the top and breather walves at the bottom, that'sd whay not may companies sells it like a kit,otherwise you will have rattling in your brakes because bigger pistons are first in line and smallest at the end.

Vandit performance and mbt enginering sells kits like this.

That is the reason ECS tuning sells Cayenne 6pot ones not GT3s

Edited 30 May, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

Discs are 350x34 original GT3 ones with anodised alu hat - two piece floating ones

[davojuri]

Only aftger I bought that kit I started thinkoing about required space-clearance for those calipers to sit freely. Nobody alks enough about that. But only www.Ultimot.de gavbe me the right info. And it says you need at least

65mm or even better 70mm clearance from disc friction surface to the inner edge of the wheel spokes.

At the moment with OEM brakes I habe 59mm and that is using 6mm spacers, I have another set of new 6mm, and 8mm new ones, and the garage where I did check it out to find which size os spacers will be needed had hubcentric 11mm ones. So first I found out that the hole on alu hat for small bolt to hold the disc isn't perfectly centered so we had to slightly enlarge it.

Than we mounted the discs and calipers (protected them with tape) and tried 11mm plus 3,5mm spacers, and decided to go for 15mm ones.

It will be done custom to fit inner whhel space withoujt that adapter ring, so if needed we can cut backside of spacer if it turns out it is to big.

wheel is being tkane for inside measurement fore the spacer to be used without that blue adapter ring

[davojuri]

So I really do not know how did people managed to do this and wheel still inside the wheel arch???!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[davojuri]

So how did they manage to do it without any special wheel protruding outside the wheel arch????

I found oin forums 10mm, 13.5mm spacers needed for RS4 upgrade.

On the pics they also dfon't have any crazy camber to accomodate this.

HOW???????????????????????????

I have -1,5minutes of camber, 6mm spacers on oe brakes and there is still only left arrounbd 2-3mm.

When I will put my new brakes and 155 spacers wheels will protrude outside wheel arch for more than 7-8mm!!!!

Ok I will try to compensxate this by enlarging the camber to way past -2, going from 225 to 215/35/19 tires.

But this will worn tires to fast on the street.

any suggestions pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee?????????????????????????????????????

forgot to mention I use TSW Catalunya 8x19 ET 35 wheels

Edited 30 May, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

So we made custom spacers 15mm thick that are intended for use with rims without adapter ring from inside.

Custom fit:

replaced old 6mm one with new one:

and here it is how it looks like:

finally we got the magic 65mm distance from the disc

we tested it on the lates Hawk Eye Elite device for wheel alignement

and with old spacers of 6mm it showed that additional 8-9mm can be added.

Great, and that all wit camber settings -1.3 to -1.4 so plenty more left to be increased if needed to put wheel behind wheel arch.

I wonted to test drive only with new spacers to see if there is increased bump steer but we had only 4 45mm bolts.

So I have to wait for few more days to finally put the brakes.

After test drive we will put calipers again to see exact clearance, if to big it can be narrowed by additional milling of the base of spacer. But wheel also flexes in corner so if it stays under the arch ok with me.

Edited 4 June, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

I also bought some OEM Porsche brake grease to avoid squelling

[Guest BigJase88]

I noticed you changed the rotation of the disc from your first installed pic!

I was always lead to believe the disc runs as per your first mocked up picture not as you then later fitted?

Could be wrong but grooved discs are ment to run like that!

[davojuri]

you're right

It was only caliper clearance testing

[davojuri]

Got it running, finally

[davojuri]

And performed this procedure:

Brakes: Pagid Pads bedding-in directions

To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.

The information below should be checked with packaged directions for your specific pad.

The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:

• Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
  
• Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
  
• Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
  
• Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
  
• This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes.
  
• Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
  

Src: Pagid USA.

WHEN I STOPPED TO PAY FOR THE HIGHWAY IT WAS SMOKING ALL AROUND HEHEHEH

Edited 15 June, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

Installation pics, technical problems and solutions to come :hi: :hi: :hi:

[Oet]

nice:> any bigger and they would not fit under those wheels!!!

[davojuri]

Some new goodies are picked up today, and going to be mounted tomorrow: