Remote switching cable

[Ben90]

Hey guys, I did a quick search but couldn't find my answer, so quick question if I may. How does the remote switching cable (fitted properly) to an amp tell it to turn on? When there's a constant 12v sent to it? Would I be right in saying it doesn't actually 'use' this power for anything other than an ON signal?

I'm clearly no expert with car audio but I think I have two options:

- Attach the power cable to an ignition switched fuse tap, ignore the remote wire. Amp will turn on when ignition turns on(?)

- Attach the power cable to a permanent live, then tap the remote wire to a switched fuse? If my above understanding is correct, would it be at all beneficial for the amp being attached to a permanent live? Drawing a small amount of power for...something? Or will this achieve no more than drain my battery?

Any help appreciated Thanks all

Edited 3 April, 2013 by Ben90

[RainbowFire]

- Attach the power cable to a permanent live, then tap the remote wire to a switched fuse? If my above understanding is correct, would it be at all beneficial for the amp being attached to a permanent live? Drawing a small amount of power for...something? Or will this achieve no more than drain my battery?

That one.

Usually amplifier power cables are quite thick to take the current the amplifier will draw. The remote wire is of a much lighter gauge and is effectively wired to a relay inside the amplifier, so when there's no current on the remote wire it will disconnect the amplifier from the battery. When you power the car up, the remote will trigger the internal relay and the amplifier will then be on and ready to go. This is why some amplifiers give a thump through the speakers when you turn them on.

Make sure you use the right gauge wire for the amplifier power too.

[Ben90]

Brilliant, thanks for your reply I've got an amp with all the cables included and was just wondering about the remote cable which is pretty skinny, hence my worries about putting 12v through it. I thought I could get away with ignoring it and just fitting the power cable to a switched live to control it, now it's clear that it wouldn't work as the remote needs to be live as well, I can imagine myself scratching my head if you didn't tell me that since I'll be installing it tomorrow. Thanks for clearing that up!

Edited 3 April, 2013 by Ben90

[Carl Monte]

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/con-sli2-connection-sli2-2-channel-line-level-convertor.html

Keep finding different posts which all need this same bit of kit... Use the bit I've put above, it'll sort all your issues!

Don't pick up the trigger from the fuse box or anywhere else or when you switch the car on and off you will get a thump through the speakers and the same when switching the radio on and off when the car is running.

The trigger is designed to take a milliamperes input if you put to much current through it you will destroy your amp eventually and every time the amp is on without the radio it will slowly damage the amp.

[Ben90]

I do get a very small thump when switching on. The amp accepts speaker level inputs and the switching wire also has a 10a fuse inline. Should I still get the lineout converter? I also seem to get some bass notes louder than others, would the LOC fix that as well?

Thanks for your help.

[Carl Monte]

The line level converter would sort out your remote issue and may regulate the sound to the amp a bit better but I would ASAP put a smaller fuse on the remote, if it was to out 9 or 10 amps through that circuit of the amp it would kill it. Most remotes are rated between .8 and 1.2 amps.

What amp is it, if its doing strange things with the bass notes are you sure it's set up properly?