Hello guys, 

 

I have for a week now been having this issue, when it started i noticed it violently when i WOT the car at second gear and got to about 4000-4500rpm (it varies) it just cut ignition or fuel or something because the car just completely stopped reving and wouldn't continue rev until i eased of the throttle a little bit. 

 

Since it first happened i've been experimenting and it does this in EVERY gear and it's only at WOT or near as makes no difference WOT. 

 

It revs to 4000-4500rpm and then just stops until' i lift off.. And when it stops it kinda throws me forward in the car.

 

I have VAGCOM'd and did a OBD test on the car and found no error codes. 

I should add that if i'm in neutral and rev the engine (and go WOT) it revs all the way to redline as it should.

 

Anyone that has any idéa of that the problem might be?

 

Thanks in advance, Florian.

Edited 30 July, 201312 yr by FlowRyan

Sounds abit like you're describing the traction control system at work

 

Probably marked 'ASR' or maybe 'ESP' button on the dash  ?

 

If you've not tried it, have a go with it disabled

Sounds like boost cut, what mods are you running? 

Unplug the MAF sensor, & see if it makes a difference.

Dear god, forgot to mention that i have the 1.8 20v AGN engine, it isn't the traction since it's a clear engine problem. The engine dies and it has nothing to do with the esp or anything like that :P

I read your 1st post as in dropping into 2nd from 3rd and accelerating type situation

This was the common symptom in the days of failing mechanical fuel pumps, particularly when going flat out up hill. Sounds like yours is being starved of fuel too.

Check fuel filter and fuel pump.

You can't always rely on the lack of fault codes.

For your info there are several engine sensors that will only cause the ECU to throw a fault code if they become intermittent or short to ground.

For instance common failures such as the MAF & coolant temp sensor will not cause the ECU to throw a code if they still produce a recognisable signal, even if it's wrong! A way to eliminate those parts as a cause is to log the MAF & to look at the CTS in VCDS engine measuring blocks. Pulling the MAF sensor will cause the ECU to go to default settings so it's always worth a try. If there is no difference in how the engine performs then the MAF is most likely good, however if the engine runs better with the MAF unplugged you've found the issue. A common symptom of a failing MAF is the engine not revving to the red line.

You can't always rely on the lack of fault codes.

For your info there are several engine sensors that will only cause the ECU to throw a fault code if they become intermittent or short to ground.

For instance common failures such as the MAF & coolant temp sensor will not cause the ECU to throw a code if they still produce a recognisable signal, even if it's wrong! A way to eliminate those parts as a cause is to log the MAF & to look at the CTS in VCDS engine measuring blocks. Pulling the MAF sensor will cause the ECU to go to default settings so it's always worth a try. If there is no difference in how the engine performs then the MAF is most likely good, however if the engine runs better with the MAF unplugged you've found the issue. A common symptom of a failing MAF is the engine not revving to the red line.

 

+1 on this

 

don't rule it out and is a quick test....at no expense