After some night time driving I think the lights need some attention.

 

Does anyone know if its possible to adjust the low and high beams individually as I find the main beam too high when dip beam is lifted up to an acceptable level.

 

regards

 

 

Yes. If your vRS is MY 10 or later, with standard halogen headlights, adjustment of the low beam is via the 2 recessed adjusting screws near the rear of the light units adjacent to the wing. The higher one adjusts the low beam from side to side and the lower one adjusts for height. Main beam adjustment is via a similar adjuster closer to the front of the car just behind the inboard main beam units.. The workshop manual advises using a screwdriver with socket extension or with a socket wrench SW 6 (which looks like an Allen key). The adjusters are very easy to see and access.

I need to do mine ASAP before the first MOT.

Thanks that's very useful info now I can tweek it a bit, the dip beam is dire as it is.

Just done mine. It was very quick and easy to adjust the imbalance I had between left and right headlights on both beams. Whether or not they are set correctly to pass the MOT is yet to be seen!

I've been reading posts on HID's retrofit and it seems fairly straightforward and very cheap, the tricky bit being finding someone to do the digital coding.

 

I see there is no need to get the CANBUS versions of HID's.

 

Has anyone done the main beam too.

 

As you may have noticed my other car is Subaru Impreza, which I converted to HID's about six yrs ago and the results "brilliant", main beam like daylight, no problem with passing MOT's, same old chat about legality on the Scooby forums as here.  I keep the lights adjusted low in traffic and crank up a bit when in the clear, never been flashed, so I anticipate similar with vRS.

 

It's good to see the ballast boxes are a lot smaller these days so easier to locate. Do OEM dip ballasts fit inside the light housing?

 

Thanks for all advice so far.

Edited 20 November, 201312 yr by boneman

Forgot to mention had four wheel alignment done at Wheels in Motion today. Not much to correct. Rear camber ok @ -1deg 20min, toe set to +8min each side was 2min and 9min. Good to see these cars have plenty of front caster left 7deg 25min, right 6deg 55min and hence not loads of camber at -0.35/40min.

 

Has any one reduced the rear camber below 1deg 20min to stand the wheels up more and whether this affected the handling adversely?

Yes. If your vRS is MY 10 or later, with standard halogen headlights, adjustment of the low beam is via  the 2 recessed adjusting screws near the rear of the light units adjacent to the wing. The higher one adjusts the low beam from side to side and the lower one adjusts for height. Main beam adjustment is via a similar adjuster closer to the front of the car just behind the inboard main beam units.. The workshop manual advises using a screwdriver with socket extension or with a socket wrench SW 6 (which looks like an Allen key). The adjusters are very easy to see and access.

I need to do mine ASAP before the first MOT.

 

Had a tweak at the headlamp adjusting today as above, car is MY12.

 

Adjusting screw A shifts high beam up and down ok, however the 2 adjusting screws B and C near the rear of the light unit only seem to adjust the dip beam up and down but not left and right, am I missing something here?

 

Also is there provision for adjusting high beam left and right?

Edited 21 November, 201312 yr by boneman

I have rechecked the official workshop manual. Screw B is used to adjust the dipped beam left and right. Screw C adjusts the dipped beam up and down.