Hi the engine runs sweet when on the move no issues but when at a stand still goes to die then jumps back to life i recently bought it and it has a aftermarket pipe and air filter piper x Oooo i have cleaned up the throttle body but no different any ideas im guessing its a sensor thanks

it could be an internal fault with the throttle body, either the v61 idle switch or the v60 motor has failed, what happens when you prevent the throttle from closing using the plate of a screwdriver to hold the throttle open a little? give it a try and see if it idles ok

If the above doesn't work, look for a vacuum leak, usually it's the gasket below TB or a vacuum hose. What happens when you pump quickly the brake pedal when idling?

So if i hold it open a little and everything is ok then change both or is it a complete throttle body also i have been reading your conversion 1.4 is it plug and play i have some diy mech knowledge my old man is a qualified mech could you do me a favour and give me a list of everything i need to complete the job that would be awsum

Details of the 1.4 16v conversion are listed the tech guides section...

the thottle body should be treated as a sealed unit, internally it has some quite intricate mechanisms, plus a few electrical circuits too, there's no user serviceable items inside it, if it has gone wrong just find another one from a breakers yard.

Cool will i need to get ecu dialed in

Ill check the braking when idling tomorrow

What will brake test show?

there's a direct hose connection from the intake manifold and the brake servo vacuum reservoir, it goes through a non return valve, the brake test will check the non return valve is working properly, any drop or rise in idle speed indicates a fault

there's a direct hose connection from the intake manifold and the brake servo vacuum reservoir, it goes through a non return valve, the brake test will check the non return valve is working properly, any drop or rise in idle speed indicates a fault

 

Hi teflon so you are saying that if the bake pedal is pressed all the way while the engine is at idling and it drops or rises there is a problem?

 

I am asking because when i pump the brake pedal at idle i always notice that the engine's idle rises a little.

 

I'd like to clear this as i would try to fix it since brakes are not to be messed with.

 

Sorry if its a stupid question but i only know so much about cars and their mechanical stuff and i am always keen to learn new stuff

Edited 4 April, 201412 yr by warbuli

it shouldn't change speed at all, but im not an expert on carbs, i grew up with fuel injection engines so i understand them better, there's probably a vacuum leak somewhere in or around the intake manifold or brake servo check valve (non return)

I am asking because when i pump the brake pedal at idle i always notice that the engine's idle rises a little.

Idle slightly rising is a good sign. It means the carburettor's idle boost mechanism compensates for a sudden vacuum loss, like the quick brake pedal pumping. A bad sign would be the tendency to stall the engine; that would indicate a 1-way valve faulty or the brake booster diaphragm faulty. As mentioned above, the brake booster is one of many systems that 'feed' on manifold vacuum. Any leak in those systems could result in a rough idle. As a thumb rule, only what is below the throttle valve should be checked for vacuum leaks. Here comes VERY handy a smoke machine.

it shouldn't change speed at all, but im not an expert on carbs, i grew up with fuel injection engines so i understand them better, there's probably a vacuum leak somewhere in or around the intake manifold or brake servo check valve (non return)

 

actually mine is fuel injection... i dont know about the others

actually mine is fuel injection... i dont know about the others

The same things I wrote above applies to injection engines. The only difference is that ECU adjusts for idle speed drop. In a very broad way, a carburettor works like a computer using clever electrical, mechanical, and vacuum-driven devices instead of a CPU, a Flash memory, a firmware, sensors, and step-by-step motors.

The same things I wrote above applies to injection engines. The only difference is that ECU adjusts for idle speed drop. In a very broad way, a carburettor works like a computer using clever electrical, mechanical, and vacuum-driven devices instead of a CPU, a Flash memory, a firmware, sensors, and step-by-step motors.

 

Yes sir, thats what i have always believed but for a second i thought that it was wrong.

 

After reading this topic, I thought that I would try the brake test. And...as stated above Rpm rose from normal(750rpm) to about 1000 Rpm. So looks like all is good with vacuum/brake servo assist.