I'm removing the offside drive shaft and hub as I can't separate the shaft from the hub so i'm having to remove the full shaft and hub to have it pressed out. I've popped the ball joint/TRE joint and removed the drop link/caliper and dropped the hub/knuckle off the strut so the hub end is now free and it's all sat on an axle stand, however I can't get the gear box end to disengage. I've undone all the bolts and applied gentle persuasion but it's not budging, has it got a hidden cir-clip i've not spotted or do I need to revert to harsh language and a pry bar? It's not been disturbed in 13 years by the look of it so I suspect it's just in need of added persuasion but I figured it was worth an ask.

 

Thanks

Once you have undone the six bolts you should be able to remove the inner CV from the transmission flange. The gasket between the two is stuck on. If it gets torn up, you will need a new one. If you do need a new one, peel off the foil and stick it in place. Sometimes mechanics don't realise it's adhesive.

Thanks I just didn't fancy a load of ball bearings rolling about or fighting an unseen cir-clip tonight. I'm renewing the shaft/CV's, bearing, ball joint, TRE etc. on the grounds they shouldn't need doing again and if the bearing does it'll be a lot easier to separate next time round.

Sorry to go slightly OT. How do you diagnose a failing driveshaft?

You start with the noise, but it's not easy, as you are looking at

Wheel Bearing

Outer CV

Shaft

Inner CV

Transmission Output Bearing

Diff

Rumbles can be caused by just about all of the above or a bad Wheel/Tyre.

Clicking/Clunking noises (especially when turning) are usually caused by a CV, but you have to eliminate suspension/engine mounts first.

Vibrations with little or no noise could be a warped shaft.

In practice, the first thing to do is determine which side the problem is on. Anyone who has had a bad wheel bearing will know how difficult this can be by ear. I usually revert to using a 'chassis ear' to determine the side and which end of the driveshaft the noise is coming from.

Ok thanks. I get a little noise when reversing off the drive and a knocking/ groan when accelerating. No noise when turning corners though

Also I'll add I've recently changed top mounts and bearings, drop links, track rods and track rod ends.

Ok thanks. I get a little noise when reversing off the drive and a knocking/ groan when accelerating. No noise when turning corners though

First thing I'd check is the dogbone mount.

That was upgraded to a super pro bush and recently (within the past month) checked and re-torqued

Just a quick update, as suggested all it needed was a little more rotation and repetitive pulling/persuasion and it came free.

 

As to identifying a CV joint failing, I normally do slow figure 8's at full lock and listen for the repetitive clunk before getting the car up on stands and investigating further but in this case the shaft/joints weren't the issue, they were just a casualty of having to strip the hub. After 13 years and, if i'm honest a few thousand miles with a bearing getting gradually louder (tip: don't wait), I couldn't get the shaft out of the hub even with harsh language and a blow torch, it's been hit that hard i've deformed a 17mm deep socket (slotted over the splines to protect the end before I resorted to a puller) and the puller finally bent and deformed the splined head. At that point I went all in and stumped up for a new shaft/CV's, tracking rod/end, ball joint, Meyle HD drop links, front discs/pads and the dog bone bush, the final bit was an Ibiza hub housing/knuckle from a scrappy earlier today. If it helps anyone the Polo 9n/Fabia 1 and Ibiza 1 hubs are universal regardless of engine types, it's only the ABS sensor and the type of bearing you press in that makes a difference, on non ABS cars you just have a hole where the sensor would go so they're fully interchangeable. I'd have liked to take the time to treat/paint the new stuff before it goes on but time is against me and the MOT is due so it'll be put back together tonight.