Looking for some advice, long time lurker, minimal poster. Bought a pd170 in November which brought me back to the fold.

As the title suggests, it snapped on me yesterday.

Long story boring, belt was done by an indy 5 months/4k miles ago, that I have used for the past few years with other cars. Parts were genuine maindealer that I bought myself, which was the whole kit except the tensioner bolt. Had no idea that should have been changed as well.

I know Ive no come back from this guy as he wasn't asked to change the bolt, but he did torque it on. To what tightness, we will never know and all he will probably say is "I torqued it to spec". Lesson learned, never skimp on your pride and joy.

So I've decided to take it to a very well respected Vag Indy here in Ireland.

What I'd like to get is a heads up from ye guys as to what my options are that would be best for the car.

1: rebuilt head

Or

2: replacemen engine

And what other work could be done at the time that would make sense. E.g. Clutch + flywheel.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice guys!

You are assuming that the snapped bolt is the root cause - it may not be. A faulty tensioner sometimes results in a snapped bolt.

Providing the parts yourself is always a bad idea. If it is determined that one of them is faulty, then the garage will not be liable.

How do I know if it was a faulty tensioner?

How do I know if it was a faulty tensioner?

Assuming the engine is a BMN, the 'bolt' for the tensioner is actually a stud and a nut. The stud does not need to be replaced with the tensioner. Was it the stud that has snapped? There is a bolt for the relay roller.

The best way to test the tensioner, is to use the tensioning tool with the tensioner on the car. If the tensioner has failed it will be obvious to someone who has fitted this type of tensioner.

It could also be due to a failed water pump, although it is unusual that it could cause this, if it is the OEM pump.

Do you have any photos?

Can you confirm the engine code?

It's seems the tensioner  bolts on the 2.0PD engine is a common weakness especially if it's been through several cambelt changes without the bolt being changed.

 

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=103775

Assuming the engine is a BMN, the 'bolt' for the tensioner is actually a stud and a nut. The stud does not need to be replaced with the tensioner. Was it the stud that has snapped? There is a bolt for the relay roller.

The best way to test the tensioner, is to use the tensioning tool with the tensioner on the car. If the tensioner has failed it will be obvious to someone who has fitted this type of tensioner.

It could also be due to a failed water pump, although it is unusual that it could cause this, if it is the OEM pump.

Do you have any photos?

Can you confirm the engine code?

Ya sorry, was trying to post this thread on the mobile and wasnt working out right. Its a BMN engine and ya its a double threaded bar with a nut to hold the tensioner in place.

Will try get pics up at some point of the tensioner. Cant test it as the stud sheered off in the head.

 

 

It's seems the tensioner  bolts on the 2.0PD engine is a common weakness especially if it's been through several cambelt changes without the bolt being changed.

 

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=103775

Ya a few people have told me that it can be a common fault. Funny how you only find these things out when they bread eh?

But back to the question at hand, which would be the best route to take in terms of fixing it?

But back to the question at hand, which would be the best route to take in terms of fixing it?

Invest in a stud and nut. If you repair the engine you will need it anyway. It allows you to quickly have the tensioner tested.

Ask a trusty garage to quote for both a repair and to SUPPLY AND FIT a used/rebuilt engine.

Don't source the engine yourself. If you do find an engine yourself, let the garage buy it for you. That means if there is a problem with the engine or its installation, the garage is liable (avoids "it's the engine", "no, it's the installation", "the engine failed because of poor installation", "no, the installation was fine, the engine had a fault").

Thanks rwbaldwin. It's bits of info like that I'm looking for.

Don't mean to hijack this thread but I have a 2.0l PD Octavia, but it's a BKD. My cam belt is due to be changed, does this apply to the BKD engine, or just the BMN?

 

Thanks

Edited 16 May, 201412 yr by kissifer

Don't mean to hijack this thread but I have a 2.0l PD Octavia, but it's a BKD. My cam belt is due to be changed, does this apply to the BKD engine, or just the BMN?

 

Yes, the tensioner stud should be replaced at every cam belt change. All the proper cam belt kits (Gates, OEM) come with the necessary replacement studs and bolts and any half decent garage should replace these items.....however I'm sure some don't.  

Yes, the tensioner stud should be replaced at every cam belt change. All the proper cam belt kits (Gates, OEM) come with the necessary replacement studs and bolts and any half decent garage should replace these items.....however I'm sure some don't.

The stud was not in the original OE cambelt kits and was not designed to be replaced at every change. If that had been the case it would be a bolt like the relay roller. Having said that, the stud is only about £1 and VW introduced it into their kits in late 2013.

The tensioner nut has always been included.

The stud was not in the original OE cambelt kits and was not designed to be replaced at every change. If that had been the case it would be a bolt like the relay roller. 

 

I did wonder at the time why it wasn't just a bolt, that explains it.......I also wonder if the new studs sometimes get damaged/weakened by rough handling during fitting. 

 

 

VW introduced it into their kits in late 2013.

 

Gates must have introduced the tensioner stud earlier......I used a Gates belt kit on my BKD engine in 2012 and it had a new tensioner stud.....I thought they were the OEM supplier? 

Edited 16 May, 201412 yr by booke23

...I did wonder at the time why it wasn't just a bolt, that explains it.......I also wonder if the new studs sometimes get damaged/weakened by rough handling during fitting...

Actually, including the stud has introduced a new problem - damage to the stud during installation.

There is nothing wrong with the studs, but overtightening the nut causes failure after the NEXT change. This is pragmatic approach to avoid VAG being on the hook if the PREVIOUS garage overtightened it at the LAST change.

Just for good measure, one of the aftermarket car data companies had the wrong torque :(