hi I'm back again.

My step daughters Skoda had an mot yesterday. The Emwl has been on for ages I think! I cleared the codes outside the test centre and it failed on emissions .

I was told by the garage to add a fuel treatment some shell fuel and give it some 80mph in 4th gear for half an hour to clean it out ,

I did this ( gf did as I can't drive a manual car at the mo as I have a broken ankle I've a cast!)

Back to test centre and it passed the emissions test my the skin of its teeth! Replaced exhaust back box as the thrashing seemed to bugger up the back box (split along the seam, only 16 months old)

Emwl back on with 16514 on the way home that is only about 8 miles.

If you knowledgable fellas had a crystal ball what would be your best guess to sort this out? Pre cat sensor? Post cat sensor? Cat itself

It's a 65,000 mile car x reg. Old type Skoda engine not the MPI 1.4 8v.

Thanks in anticipation

Andy

Old type Skoda engine not the MPI 1.4 8v.

 

 

The 8 valve engine is the MPI.

 

I'd say pre cat lambda but could be a few things.

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16514/P0130/000304

Problem causes?

 

Sensor itself

Dodgy sensor wiring

 

J.

Would you know the part number? Would you try a cheap pattern one as the car itself has probably only got 2 years in it

Would you know the part number? Would you try a cheap pattern one as the car itself has probably only got 2 years in it

 

I'd check the wiring first, fault code is saying the heater circuit is malfunctioning, checking the wiring is free.

If the wiring looks sound ie not burnt or obviously damaged or damp or corroded is it a replacement sensor or is it protected by a fuse?

If the wiring looks sound ie not burnt or obviously damaged or damp or corroded is it a replacement sensor or is it protected by a fuse?

 

No fuse, but you can check the heater yourself by measuring the resistance of the heating element, if it's open circuit then you need a whole new sensor.

I replaced the sensor last night and reset the light. Approx 20 miles driving and light back on!!! bosch sensor from eurocarparts cost £85.00! Not scanned it yet as step daughters car but light on nevertheless! HELP PLEASE. Which wires ie colour should show current with the ignition on? If not how can I sort this?

Confirmed! 16514 code again!

Not mpi

Suggest you post your engine code and any part numbers for the lambda sensor you bought.

 

Does THIS help?

 

J.

AQW engine

Bosch 0258 007 355 / 0258 007 068

AQW engine

Bosch 0258 007 355 / 0258 007 068

 

At the risk of repeating myself, that is the MPI engine.

 

Dude, MPI simply means Multi Point Injection.

 

If you have four fuel injectors on the old Skoda lump then it is an MPI by definition.

Looks like this has got you all beat! Like me!

This one then...

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/drive_unit/1.0/37;_1.4/44;_1.4/50_drive_unit_fuel_injection/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/lambda_control/check_lambda_probe_and_lambda_control_upstream_of_catalytic_converter_%28engines_with_identification_characters_aqv_atz_aqw_azf/

 

Demonstrates how to test both the heater and the lambda.

 

J.

This one then...

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/drive_unit/1.0/37;_1.4/44;_1.4/50_drive_unit_fuel_injection/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/lambda_control/check_lambda_probe_and_lambda_control_upstream_of_catalytic_converter_%28engines_with_identification_characters_aqv_atz_aqw_azf/

 

Demonstrates how to test both the heater and the lambda.

 

J.

 

And more importantly the wiring and connector!

Ok here we go if you measure the volts from the connector that connects to the lambda lead it shows 0.5 volts as shown. There is continuity of the 6 wires between the lambda and the ecu and the 2 indicated wires to the lambda show continuity not an open circuit. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for this part of the car? Could it be a faulty new sensor that I've fitted or a faulty ecu?

I'm a bit foxed.

Thanks for the help in anticipation

Broken wire in or upstream of the connector IMO...

Sorry I don't know what you mean.

Should I try replacing the front lambda again as the supplier is happy to do this free? I've seen a post that suggests cutting off the connector block to the lambda and reconnect it with bullet connectors. What does anyone think of this option? This front lambda has no activity whatsoever. The rear one does but when it's plugged in to a scanner and looked at it has a total flat line for the front lambda. Any help greatly appreciated

Should I try replacing the front lambda again as the supplier is happy to do this free? I've seen a post that suggests cutting off the connector block to the lambda and reconnect it with bullet connectors. What does anyone think of this option? This front lambda has no activity whatsoever. The rear one does but when it's plugged in to a scanner and looked at it has a total flat line for the front lambda. Any help greatly appreciated

 

If you're certain that the wiring and connector are fine then it's possible that you've been supplied with brand new dead sensor and you therefore have nothing to lose exchanging it. You should NOT cut the connector off and replace with bullets since this makes no sense.

 

What you can do is cut the wiring and connector off your original probe, connect it and use it to double check that you have continuity back to the ECU.