Hello all

I've got a fault with my mk1 Octavia you have to press the window button say down then the window moves a step then stops .let go and press again .it takes a good few presses to get the window eather up or down .any ideas

Thanks for your help Jim

Window regulator sticking or a switch with an intermittent connection/fatigued wiring?

Try some contact cleaner on the switch first, potentially cheapest fix. Although sticking regulators are not uncommon. Failing those 2 the motor I guess. Not had the problem myself but I'd probably have a go at the switch while I shopped around for a regulator, just in case....

Ok thanks mate Il give it a try .bought it as a cheep tow car . Needs two windows rebuilding central locking in good and ns r door sorting its got an imobiliser issue but I think I've found the answer on hear for that .

Thanks jim

Ok so I've lubed the window mech as bed as I can and striped and cleaned the switch to no joy .but I did find what looks to be a control box one end sealed with self emalgamating tape .and the motor wires bodge in with glue and crimp terminals I'm guessing this isn't a factory job lol . Any ideas ?

Also had a moment with the engine . I gave it a little rev and it shuddered to a halt ,dident want to restart fireing almost like misfireing . I thought the worst .but after a short switch off it was ok again .only fault code was negitive deviation .so I asume vac fault sticky vnt ? Has done it again but if warmed a bit it seems ok ? Thanks for the help .jim

This a mod that has been recommended on here to fix a common problem of corrosion of the pins in the connector shown in the photo.

Water runs into the connector and electrolytic action corrodes away the lowest pin in the middle row of pins. Someone has bypassed the corroded pins with external wires and connections. The self-amalgamating tape etc is an attempt to stop water getting in again.

 

Do a search in this forum and you should find who posted this fix with bypassing wiring. Perhaps he was the previous owner of your car.

 

The window sticking may just be friction between the glass and the channels it runs in. I had this in another make of car and fixed it by 1) cleaning fungal growth out and 2) spraying with WD40. 

Il have a second go at cleaning and lubeing the channels see if I can get a smooth operation . It seemed od as the pins and conector block are fine and corrosion free .the cars a bit of a dog but id like to fix as much as I can before I start useing it . Also the led on the door button doesn't flash ? Could this be linked to the micro switch in the locks as the door down light and interior light don't work on the front doors thanks again

The interior and door light probably is microswitch/lock mechs but I think the led is a module thing. Might be wrong. Both front doors at once is unusual, but not impossible I suppose. It does seem strange that a fix had been done like that when the pins appear fine hhmmm strange one. Can you hear the motor trying to work the window when you press the switch?

Yeah the motor will run it just go's up or down in steps .wile working on it it did stop altogether a couple of times . But if left untouched for a few mins it would work again . I've got one front and one rear that needs new mechs the front that works in stages and the last rear works fine but no central locking in that door lol but for £375 what more can I ask

The LED is a function controlled via the module, as it is used as an indication of faults for it's flash rate - ie slow consistant or fast and coded 1 slow 2 quick etc.

 

Whilst the pins may be in good condition, the module itself can suffer huge water ingress in winter if the door drainage is poor. Just one days exposure to a downpour can result in a full eggcup of water to be drained from that module, so you can imagine how much can get into it over a wet month.

 

I would also check the door loom itself as these can be damaged by water and general movement of the door which cause internal fracture breaks below the insulation.

 

I seem to remember reading in the ELSAWIN manual on the immobiliser that the door led is also used to denote immobiliser faults, so you may have 2 faults with a central cure here.

Is the module for the window motor in the pic also linked into the immobiliser system aswell ? Il have to take a second look but I think the circuit board looked dark from memory as if its been warm maybe from the soldered mod Job .

The locking system is linked to the immo only in respect of the fact that it has to send a satisfactory lock condition signal so that the immo can arm or release. The led is more a fault indication/armed visual system than an integral part.

Ok so how can I get it to work ? Hears the fault codes I got earlyer

00932

00928

00933

00929

00935. Sorry for all the questions.

Edited 4 March, 201511 yr by jublybug

Here is a breakdown of the codes you have -

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00932

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00928

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00933

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00929

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00935

 

Some will be related to that spaghetti mess you have in the picture, so if it was my car, I would fix that first and then see how many of the others still remain.

Ok cool Il go back into the door and see what I can sort and go from there . Il post up what I find thanks again jim

Yellowcar has done a real good How to guide on here with some good piccies that may help you here - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/336309-how-to-check-and-protect-your-door-multiplugs/

Just a bit of an update . Still haven't fixed the jirky window but the door pin led has started working on its own? Looked into wireing in door shut and alls intact couple of bits of broken insulation but taped it up and put it back . I did how ever fix the rear window and central locking in the rear doors . Fractured wireing in the shuts ,so getting there slowly .

Jim

Was the actual wires fine within the broken insulation? Sounds like your taping may have made a good contact, hope it lasts, maybe keep your eyes open for a good used loom in the meantime so you can ditch that spaghetti plug.

Is it the drivers window that's jerky? It still sounds like the regulator to me, there are plenty of used ones around usually. I remember watching a great you tube clip. If you Google 'octavia door problems you tube' it should pop up. The guy went through most things as the car he was working on had a lot of these common problems, including the regulator. Keep plugging away mate you'll get there.

Hello yes wires where good and shiny and intact hence just tapeing over the cracked insulation. Yeah drivers window the jerky one .ive got one to replace on the pasenger front door so once I've done that one Il remove the drivers and see what's going on give it a good clean and lube .thanks Il have a look for that vid cheers Jim

anyone willing to replace my broken plastic clip on electric version, for a reasonable quote please? thanks!