What would be the DSG box oil change intervals?

40k miles iirc.

 

its not a huge job for a DIY if you have the right tools and a gearbox oil filler pump thing - about an hour & half. you have to get the airbox out of the way up top to get at the filter for the DSG box, and then underneath, get the engine shield off, drain fluid, refill,  run it up to temp, and then check level again. 

Oil have to be exactly 40 degrees to pomp out. It's about thickness

nope. thats not true. the only temperature dependant piece is when you are refilling the gearbox with fluid. the oil has to be between 35 and 45C when you check the level of fluid you have pumped back in. 

 

longer version: when you remove the gearbox fiil plug, you then have to remove a plastic snorkel from the fill hole to fully drain the gearbox.

 

to fill it back up again, you replace the snorkel (basically around a 4-5 inch plastic tube) back into the fill hole, and pump the gearbox fluid into the gearbox. you put in 5 litres iirc, and then run the car until the gearbox fluid is between 35 & 45C (you can check this with VCDS). once the fluid is in the right temp range, it will have expanded the right amount, and any excess fluid will spill over the edge of the snorkel and back into your collection pan. its a pretty solid way to do this actually, and the only big problem is folks over torquing the snorkel as it goes back in (when they say 3nm of torque, they really mean it

Edited 5 April, 201511 yr by tmg

In my Audi A6 non of the garage cant change oil coz they don't have program to communicate with gearbox.

Even VW want do that.

VCDS can do it (cant remember the exact group to read, but its in the gearbox controller somewhere), as can the dealer Bosch stuff.

 

I have seen one or two places also calibrate a laser thermometer off the bottom of the gearbox sump and then cross check the VCDS reading so they can quickly tell what the internal box temp is from reading off the sump.

 

dont know if I'd be a big fan of this one, as you have no idea of the thermal properties of the sump from gearbox to gearbox, but then again the temperature band for the check is pretty wide

I don't think the petrol one needs an oil change, wet clutch yes, dry clutch no, if it's 7 speed it should be the dry one so not required.

 

However if you're OCD about these things try this, buy a new filter and 1L of DSG oil (check it's the correct oil as there is both mineral and synth for DSG, you want what was in it from new as they've been swapping it about recently) saturate the filter in the oil for an hour or so, then simply change the filter, it should be a little bell cap housing under the battery tray,

 

Reason behind this is if you see a DSG oil change the old oil comes out looking like new oil, as the oil is hydraulic rather than under combustion you don't get the contaminates that combustion gives off, anything that shouldn't be there gets caught in the filter and hence a new filter should restore the oil flow back to 100%, hth.

 

Having said that, I would do the first one @ 40K to remove any manufacturing swarf or to esure my warranty stayed intact, but afaik the petrol box isn't sheduled for any oil changes.

Edited 6 April, 201511 yr by Supurbia

I don't think the petrol one needs an oil change, wet clutch yes, dry clutch no, if it's 7 speed it should be the dry one so not required.

 

However if you're OCD about these things try this, buy a new filter and 1L of DSG oil (check it's the correct oil as there is both mineral and synth for DSG, you want what was in it from new as they've been swapping it about recently) saturate the filter in the oil for an hour or so, then simply change the filter, it should be a little bell cap housing under the battery tray,

 

Reason behind this is if you see a DSG oil change the old oil comes out looking like new oil, as the oil is hydraulic rather than under combustion you don't get the contaminates that combustion gives off, anything that shouldn't be there gets caught in the filter and hence a new filter should restore the oil flow back to 100%, hth.

 

Having said that, I would do the first one @ 40K to remove any manufacturing swarf or to esure my warranty stayed intact, but afaik the petrol box isn't sheduled for any oil changes.

My petrol Superb has the wet-clutch 6 speed DSG, so it needs 5 litres of oil at 4 years / 40k miles.

Currently showing 17k miles at 3 years, so I might not "need" to get it changed in a year or so, but I probably will.

 

SWMBO's Octy gets it's 4 year service this week at 37.5k, so it's going to get the DSG a well, but at a local VW specialist, so a bit lower cost than Skoda's menu pricing.

 

Both DSGs' seem to be working well, so it's just a precautionary measure, we quite like both cars & can'n decide what we'd replace them with, so we may as well keep them in good shape for

ourselves & the next owners..........

 

DC 

My petrol Superb has the wet-clutch 6 speed DSG, so it needs 5 litres of oil at 4 years / 40k miles.

Currently showing 17k miles at 3 years, so I might not "need" to get it changed in a year or so, but I probably will.

 

SWMBO's Octy gets it's 4 year service this week at 37.5k, so it's going to get the DSG a well, but at a local VW specialist, so a bit lower cost than Skoda's menu pricing.

 

Both DSGs' seem to be working well, so it's just a precautionary measure, we quite like both cars & can'n decide what we'd replace them with, so we may as well keep them in good shape for

ourselves & the next owners..........

 

DC 

 

 

2.0L vs 1.8 & 3.6L's I think is the reason yours is a wet one.

2.0L vs 1.8 & 3.6L's I think is the reason yours is a wet one.

You think?

 

IMVHO the 1.8 TSi is pushing the 7 speed DSG's torque capacity.

You think?

 

IMVHO the 1.8 TSi is pushing the 7 speed DSG's torque capacity.

 

 

I'm not sure what's in the V6 mate, not without looking anyway.

 

Yeah, I wasn't sure if they went on higher cc = wet or not, makes sense anyway.

Edited 6 April, 201511 yr by Supurbia