As above, my car developed a boost leak last night, so I now feel like a select group of people chasing leaks and missing power. Have not had a chance to investigate yet. No codes, no warning lights, mid-range is still there "sometimes", but there is a definite escape of boost from somewhere, especially above 3000rpm. Still goes kind of OK, but definitely not right of course.

 

I'd like to thank my family, my son, Briskoda and all the other broken vRS owners who have inspired me to become a member of the "Where's my boost going" clade.

Many congratulations, it may be sulking in the corner with mine.

I feel alone and isolated!!

Your time will come, hang in there brother

8 years waiting still nowt yet!! Fate well and truely tempted!!

Briskoda contagion is alive and kicking, the thread about handbrake return spring mod was bumped just as mine starts to moo a little when left overnight. Spooky isn't it.

With the deepest regret, I am having to leave this social elite, after such a short membership.

 

Initially, I found a pipe from the SAI pump that was loose. However, this looked like it had been disconnected for ages and my SAI pump is disabled (but accidentally re-enabled) anyway. I had a further poke around and the clip for a charge pipe from the turbo to the hard pipe before the pancake pipe had somehow migrated, leaving the rubber pipe to fend for itself, which explains the random holding of boost in some situations.

 

It has lasted almost a year, over 10k miles and several mapping sessions since the pipe was moved to do the manifold and actuator work. The man on spanner duty has been P45'd, i.e. me!

 

For now, tyre-shredding fun is resumed and meaty101, you are no longer alone once again.

Glad you sorted it buddy. Welcome to the family!!

Who is going to hold my hand now? Mind you I'm nearly there, going to get myself some ramps when I've got the time and money and brave the actuator swap. I've read a few threads now where people have hardly taken anything off, just got the turbo loose to get enough access to the manifold, is this reasonable? Obviously I'll need gaskets but it's starting to seem more doable on the driveway, I did read one where someone didn't even remove downpipe to get manifold off, which is all I have to to get at the awkward actuator bolt? Sorry for the thread hijack, but it's kind of on topic...

I've read your issues regarding boost dropping off i wish i could help you but thankfully I've never hardly looked up into that region as ive had no need to.

I've read your issues regarding boost dropping off i wish i could help you but thankfully I've never hardly looked up into that region as ive had no need to.

I know you'd help if you could. It's less desperate now and car is running nice especially now I've brought intake temps down significantly. The pikey mod springs have helped but I suspect it's more that the actuators diaphragm inside has perished a little.

The sooner you change it though the better because if your anything like me even if the actuator is ok you won't settle until you know for sure that it's right. That faulty recirc motor on mine is still annoying me!!

It is bugging me a little as it goes but I've just got to brave it for a few weeks as I've had to spend on front tyres earlier than I'd hoped (think garage screwed the alignment when they did wheel bearings) as toe in went out and took the outside edges badly. Not impressed with my 'go to' garage anymore. Been a few things now. So it will be cheapest for me to do it but I still need gaskets, ramps and such. Mankee sorted me some bolts which was great.

Recirc motor bugging me as well. Need to get mine open and unplugged see if arms are working and whether it still makes noise. And I think I'm either brave or stupid, I've bought a used one for £7, may be tempted to try and swap it in! Have decided I like having recirc.

Who is going to hold my hand now? Mind you I'm nearly there, going to get myself some ramps when I've got the time and money and brave the actuator swap. I've read a few threads now where people have hardly taken anything off, just got the turbo loose to get enough access to the manifold, is this reasonable? Obviously I'll need gaskets but it's starting to seem more doable on the driveway, I did read one where someone didn't even remove downpipe to get manifold off, which is all I have to to get at the awkward actuator bolt? Sorry for the thread hijack, but it's kind of on topic...

 

Thread hijack welcome! It's like the broken Octavia pub crawl hangover, this. I didn't take off a tonne of stuff, but was changing downpipe, manifold, actuator, intake pipe etc. all at the same time. I can't see how you can get to the three bolts holding the turbo to the manifold without at least moving the above rubber and hard boost pipes out of the way for access. And if you are dropping the turbo, then surely at least a part of the exhaust will need to be disconnected, as there isn't enough movement in the just the flexi to lower the blower? Actually, thinking about it, if you are just doing the manifold and actuator, you probably can leave the turbo, downpipe etc. as they are. Some of those lower manifold nuts are ******s though.

 

Have I shown you this link with pictures before?

 

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/26561-agu-18t-125000miles-actuator-snuffed-new-turbo-or-just-replace-actuator/

 

And some words of advice from Niki at R-tech on actuators in general and doing the actual work:

 

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=210760.0

 

The sooner you change it though the better because if your anything like me even if the actuator is ok you won't settle until you know for sure that it's right. That faulty recirc motor on mine is still annoying me!!

 

What's the recirc motor? Climatronic?

Thread hijack welcome! It's like the broken Octavia pub crawl hangover, this. I didn't take off a tonne of stuff, but was changing downpipe, manifold, actuator, intake pipe etc. all at the same time. I can't see how you can get to the three bolts holding the turbo to the manifold without at least moving the above rubber and hard boost pipes out of the way for access. And if you are dropping the turbo, then surely at least a part of the exhaust will need to be disconnected, as there isn't enough movement in the just the flexi to lower the blower? Actually, thinking about it, if you are just doing the manifold and actuator, you probably can leave the turbo, downpipe etc. as they are. Some of those lower manifold nuts are ******s though.

 

Have I shown you this link with pictures before?

 

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/26561-agu-18t-125000miles-actuator-snuffed-new-turbo-or-just-replace-actuator/

 

And some words of advice from Niki at R-tech on actuators in general and doing the actual work:

 

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=210760.0

 

 

What's the recirc motor? Climatronic?

Yeah I'm thinking have a downpipe gasket ready and maybe just undo but not take it out, disconnect TIP and some top hoses like you say and leave the messy ones on. Which are the bolts that have a tendency to snap? Are they the turbo to manifold or downpipe to turbo? Yes I'd seen those links before, cheers, nice to have a reminder when thinking things through though.

Yeah recirculation flap motor for the climatronic. Mine chirps like a bird, not too noisy but it is annoying, need to check if flap is moving, think it is. Apparently it's one of the worst things to swap in...ever in the history of the Octavia mk1. Some just make sure it's open and then unplug it, but I actually use it and like having it...watch this space!

If you get a genuine downpipe gasket (I used part number 1J0253115R) and don't end up using it, let me know. I want to take my downpipe off at some point to modify and get rid of the half-inch step between it and the turbo flange. Dodgy cheapo aftermarket decat downpipes!

 

I must have been really lucky as everything came off without too much of a struggle, except some exhaust clamp bolts that I had to cut through. The manifold to turbo bolts weren't too bad. Somehow, when I first got the car, one of them wasn't even screwed in at all and just rattling about! Which caused the gasket to burn out, deform and leak. I did the gasket all from the top on my drive. The downpipe studs can break and/or nuts round off. Give them a wire brush and a squirt of Plus Gas or similar release agent. Same for the manifold nuts, try not to round off the ones with awkward access. I almost did this, so just take your time.

Great stuff cheers mate, thanks for that part number, will get one and see how it goes but it will be a little while before I get round to it.

(Mainly as a note for myself to keep track of dates.)

 

Oddly, this problem has recurred today, after a few thousand miles, towing duties and track action. It looks like the rubber pipe has deformed slightly and the clamp can slide off easily after some time, causing the boost leak. Going to try a new genuine Jubilee clip, which is pennies, to replace the Norma brand before looking into a new rubber pipe. Anyone else had this problem before?

Just a little help here.

 

They may drop the boost due to fuelling issues, the ecu will cut the boost if there fuel can't keep up, as it will burn lean, which is not good in general.

 

 

Something to bare in mind for you all, not sure if it applies but worth noting. 

My mate's mk4 Golf is suffering at the moment. Replaced the top pipe today

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Well, this is annoying. Pipe blew off again after a couple of hundred miles of trackcar towing duties. I've asked SFS if they can supply me with just the elbow rather than buying a whoel 5-hose kit or going for a new OEM one.