In Feb 2015 I replaced the driver's door lock mechanism as the microswitch did not work as normal.

The symptoms were; no puddle light, car locks after 30 seconds, no interior light and no console LED.

The ebay pattern (£23) replacement solved all these issues.

 

Now when the door is opened the console LED sometimes does not come on but the puddle light always comes on and occassionally the central locking locks after 30 seconds and the interior light occassionally does not come on.

 

I.E. If the console LED does not come on the central locking usually does not lock after 30 seconds, and the interior light usually comes on, but occassionally they do not work as usual.

 

Is this a connector issue within the door?

 

And could this drain the battery?

 

Any opinions most welcome.

In my case it was due to corrosion of the pins in the connector where it plugs into the back of the window motor unit.

Others have had similar symptoms from fractured wires where they go through the rubber tube at the door hinge.

A belated thank you.

Took the door card off and removed the window motor connection block and in the middle row the bottom pin is three quarters rusted through with blue algae spread about. Not as bad as others on the forum.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/222541-central-locking-problem-help-needed/

 

I tried to add some solder to the pin without much success and then reassembled it. Still behaves in the same way and now the drivers door does not lock on the central locking. This could be the WD40 or just that I neeed a new window motor.

 

The battery is on the limit of its ability to retain charge and so goes flat if the car is not used so is this door motor connection likely to cause an earth drain?

 

All I actually need is the connector block rathe rthan the whole motor, anyone got one?

 

Does the car need re-coding with a new motor, I read somewhere that it does.

 

Thanks.

The last pin in that row is the 12 V supply but I don't know if it is switched or permanently live. If live all the time there could be a small drain through the corrosion products but unlikely to take much charge out the battery overnight.

The same pin on mine broke off when I tried cleaning everything with a stiff brush. I pushed a piece of plated hard copper wire into the connector and then trimmed it to the right length. I then carefully pushed in the plug being sure the new pin was mated correctly and not bent. Everything then worked as normal.

If it had not worked then I was going to unclip the connector and controller from the back of the window winder motor. It is held by a number of chrome plated clips but there is one behind the motor which is almost impossible to get to.

Others have taken it off to insert new pins into the connector from the back or put in bypass wires.

Thanks for your comments.

I removed the connector/controller block from the winding motor to access the pins.

I was not too sure what to use as a replacement pin, to try to solder a length of wire alongside the existing pin as described in the detailed post on the link in the post above.

The soldering iron has a thicker bit than required so access is difficult.

I'll try to find a more sensible length of wire or to use a length of wire to bipass the connection completely.