jackg

Any suggestions for locksmith in the Bristol Gloucester area to quote for new key?

SKODA Parts DirectŠkoda Fabia 2007-2015 OSF Door Frame Seal | Genuine Skoda...SKODA Parts Direct | Genuine SKODA parts cheaper than main dealerships | Shipped straight to your door. | Škoda Fabia 2007-2015 OSF Door Frame SealWater is entering on top of the door, it can be seen on the inside of the door in small drips where the curve is on top of the door. There is a gap on the outside of this seal with the roof at this point. Also have water in the bottom of the door and on the foot mat. Looks tricky as the window has to be removed to replace the lower parts of the seal which guide the window.

Door card off and access to the two window glass clamp bolts. slackened both off and the re-tightened them When I hold the window at the top and move it forwards and back, slack can be felt between the two clamps and the white column they attach to which has a wire on the outside of it. So I assume wear in the winding mechanism? When the motor raises the glass, the glass wanders a little as it rises, shunting forwards slightly in the middle of travel before returning to the track in the rear of the door at the top Presumably I have to disconnect the clamps from the glass and remove the regulator or motor to find out where the slack is?

Electric windows on front When closing the window, it sometimes moves forwards 3/8" to 1/2" to slip out of the lock side runner at the top when it rises, the motor then lowers the window. The window can be pushed back into position and it will then rise to close. Took the door card of and removed 5 of the 6 bolts holding the motor housing in place and had a wiggle around but could not stop this slipping. Can this be adjusted or is it age related wear? Passed its MOT earlier this month though.

I had a similar problem with the drivers side switch. Replaced the switch to solve it. Worn out.

Play in steering rack (n/s & o/s). Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (n/s & o/s) From a search the arms can be DIY, any advice on the steering rack, presumably a garage. Replaced two front tyres, o/s/f: wear on edge on n/s//f, chords exposed. Is any of the above relevant to the tyre wear or is it tracking? The garage also advised to replace the cam belt at 80k, currently 73k? I read they were good for 200km or 130 miles?

Offside slave cylinder leaks. Just have to check how to remove the brake shoes and springs.

I have the same problem. I removed the ashtray covering the handbrake adjustors and one was alot looser than the other as per pic. Is this the cam on the shoe sticking?

I have noticed when I open the drivers door that water drips quickly out of the drain holes on the underside of the door. So there is a build up of water within the door which vents on opening the door. That is what they are designed for, but other doors don't have the same quantity of water dripping out when I open those doors, only a few drips. So is it the window seal at the base of the window leaking? Or are there checks I can do to identify the source?

trying to fit this to my car but I cannot find info how to connect the Parrott loom to the car power supply. One post says to swap the red and orange over and mentions the fuses. but nothing specific for the power. I have the Fabia 2 to Parrott specific adaption loom. Any suggestions please.

Car failed MOT, headlights not secure. Some previous damage to each wing five years ago, but MOT in the usual garage passed them... They are wobbly so the MOT is correct. I think one plastic securing bracket has broken on each headlight as the lenses are ok. Yet to remove them to check. Are those with motors for adjustment, don't think mine has a motor? I looked on ebay but they are hard to find the exact OEM ones. O/S part number I have been given is 5J2941018D.

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Pete in Stroud very kindly carried out a diagnostic and there were a lot of faults most of which I am aware. The turbo one was 17964/P1556 Charge pressure control : negative deviation. Searching suggested vacuum tubes. so I looked under the bonnet and found a lose tube which should go to the engine, then end of it was split for an inch. So i replaced it with a spare length of blue silicon tubing and the problem is solved, The car accelerates up hills now. Other faults are: 0532 and 01221: drivers side air bag, which relates to chaffed cable in the door hinge bellows, these were taped up but the bellows were not replaced properly so there is moisture on the cables. Central locking: 01330, 01331, 01332, 01333, 00930, and 01334. Not looked at this, but I lock it on the key in the door as the switch on the fob to close it, keeps repeating so the battery is now flat in the fob. The engine under tray is missing removed by mechanic somewhere and not replaced, that allowed water into the passenger side floor which in turn may have affected the central locking module under the passenger seat? I had not used the car for about 2 months so moisture may have built up in the cabin?

Thanks for the advice. It has been in limp mode for some time, so I'll have to get a good diagnostic on it Local garage has been good, but not sure how definitive the diagnostics are?

Engine in limp mode. A/C compressor burnt out a year or so ago. replaced some 7 years ago. The wiring loom to the compressor was also damaged. The compressor spindle does not turn and so I was driving the car without air con. If I turned the air con on the auxiliary belt would smoke and smell of burnt rubber emanated. Now the engine runs but about five seconds after ignition the air con compressor is switched on regardless of the climatronic settings. So looking to scrap it. Mechanically and bodywork is good that apart. Any suggestion welcome? EG Sell or scrap or break? I am in the sticks 3 miles to the nearest town.