So on Monday morning, cruising along on dual carriageway, my vrs lost all power and died - an attempted restart while rolling was successfully, but she died again, and then would not start - cranks fover fine when starting though, but of course the timing is out.  Appears my cambelt has stripped slightly/jumped - I am uncertain why at the mo - other than just belt failure. The belt has not snapped.  Anyhow, when restarted, there was a mechanical tapping noise (eeek!), and she died.  Just wondering whether anyone has encountered this problem and not killed their valves?    Would folks recommend taking the head off and having a look, even if the compression test is clear?  

Edited 1 March, 201610 yr by Pete

I would be very surprised if there wasn't contact. Re time the belt before a compression test obviously. A leak down test would probably be more beneficial.

Yes, will time the belt.  Fingers crossed...

Sorry, but as Tech1e says there is absolutely no possibility that there hasn't been any interference, even the slightest contact will prevent the valves from seating correctly. I'd just strip it off given that the belts a goner anyway.

Vrsjoe on here had his belt strip and his has been fine since fitting a new belt

Vrsjoe on here had his belt strip and his has been fine since fitting a new belt

...but did he have the "mechanical tapping noise"... I personally wouldn't run the engine at all until the belt is sorted.

I'm not up for running anything that's damaged...I'll end up with valves wedged in pistons. While I'd rather not have the head off, if it is needed, then so be it.

...but did he have the "mechanical tapping noise"... I personally wouldn't run the engine at all until the belt is sorted.

Don't think so.

It will be the bump starting it when rolling that's prob done the damage.

Head will be off later, so will know for sure.

Will be worth taking the rocker cover off and checking to see if its smashed many of the hydraulic tappets first.

Will be worth taking the rocker cover off and checking to see if its smashed many of the hydraulic tappets first.

 

I think you need to take the cover off before even removing the head hutchy.

I think you need to take the cover off before even removing the head hutchy.

Yeah, i was going to mention that in my reply basically.

just incase he doesnt look at them and just starts taking bolts out to remove the head.

 

Again... i'd imagine they are smashed and valves could have slight damage. 

Bad news...not only do I have bent values, but a cracked head. Argh. And some camlobe wear. Best option...replace the lot.

Edited 4 March, 201610 yr by Pete

Pretty much.. yeah.

Second hand cylinder head and then your choice if you wish to replace things while youve got a replacment head.

 

I'd personally remove all the valves and clean it all out, replace the valve stem oil seals and regrind all the valves in. 

Replacment camshaft kits are coming down in price as well, so new camshaft, bearings, hydrolic tappets and camshaft oil seals arnt so much.

Will be worth buying a head gasket set since it should come with everything you need anyway.

Weighing and balancing the pros and cons, and having looked at all the options, including a whole used engine, decided to go for a complete new head with valves, cam, etc. from AMC via Darkside. Pricey, but I plan on keeping the car for years to come, as everything was in good order, excluding the cambelt that gave up the will to live sooner than expected. Seen some complaints online about them, especially the exhaust valve guides and seats, but all seems in spec. Fingers crossed.

New head...all sorted and back on the road. Never ever hope for a repeat of that!

My hopes have been dashed - uncertain what exactly has happened, but something has failed.   On boost, accelerating away, immediate loss of power.  Running very rough and lumpy - I would guess down a cylinder perhaps.   I would have thought if my turbo had let go I would have seen a reasonable cloud in my rearview mirror, but didn't - although there was some white smoke.  Starts - idles rough without power.  Some white smoke, but not masses of the stuff.   I would be surprised if a valve has failed, but some oil was blown out through the oil filler cap, nothing out the back.   :peek:   Could injector failure be a cause?  I had noted that I seemed down on MPG having done 800 miles with the new head et al.

Edited 19 March, 201610 yr by Pete

Sounds like a boost pipe has come off.

I thought that, but the ones I could see at the side of the road were all ok - would a blown boost pipe lead to such unstable idling - the car shakes under slight load.  Have blown a pipe in the past (but not for a couple of years) and dont recall the car shaking like that, nor was oil thrown from the filler cap.   However, if the car has simply blown a boost pipe off I will be super happy!!!!!!!

Take it back where the work was done and get them to diagnose it.

Just thought to keep this updated....failed valve stem seals!!!