Engine is pretty loud 66K 07 plate stage 2 remap , considering its a petrol it does sound somewhat close to a diesel not quite as bad, I took the car to get checked over by local garage and they said it's nothing to worry about.. from a cold start the engine isn't heard from inside the vehicle, once warmed up its significantly louder in cabin, read some posts of engine being faintly heard or even not heard from inside from the octy vrs's anyone put my mind at ease?

Mines the same and funnily enough I once started a thread with an almost identical title ha. I've too been told it's normal. I guess the tsi engines just don't sound pretty.. .

It's a characteristic of the engine, it's the HPFP

Mines the same. To the point I youtubed 'noisy tfsi engine' or similar and a video came up of what it should sound like, and put my mind at rest!

When I traded my PD170 vrs in for my TFSI one I Loved how much quieter it was, I guess I've just got used to it and forgotten how loud a diesel really is!

I would say it is a charactestic of a tfsi engine with a worn camshaft timing chain and tensioner and not a hpfp (although they do tend to click a bit).
The noise appears less at startup due to the oil being thicker, as the oil thins and increases in temperature it becomes noisier because of the tensioner.

I am not talking about the timing chain / timing belt end (tsi/tfsi) but the other end of the engine the end that drives the hpfp and vacumn generator for the brakes.

My 86000 mile 05 tfsi engine had always sounded like a diesel, I did quite alot of research using various websites and came to the conclusion that I needed to replace the camshaft timing chain.

I'm including a link to another website that helped during the strip down process, so take a look. (hope this is allowed).

http://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?7013321-A-quick-D-I-Y-Cam-Chain-and-Tensioner-*BPY-engines

After it was replaced I can confirm it sounded a lot less like a diesel and I am much more happier now.

BE AWARE that there are risks in replacing this chain. ALL THREE COULD LEAD TO A VERY BAD DAY.

1) The exhaust camshaft timing compensator has to be removed (the large single bolt that holds it to the camshaft could be rounded off during removal which may lead to the bolt having to be drilled out) (there are other additional horror stories of ezi outs breaking aswell)

2) Camshaft misallignment. (Make sure you use the camshaft locking tool, although it is definately more of a locking tool than an allignment tool). My first attempt, I was one tooth out, on start up I had a very lumpy idle. I was lucky but it has happened to other people. Another strip down later sorted that problem. I would just recommend before removing any components location marks are made to aid reassembly. And using the TDC marks on the cambelt end.

3) The timing compensator on the exhaust cam has oil ways that allow the camshaft timing to be advanced and retarded, it has been known for the orings that seperate the oilways to break, and then obviousy there is no control of advancing and retarding the timing (pictures 2&3). These rings can be replaced quite easily.


Costs:  Chain / Tensioner / Gasket                   £110 (parts sourced from Germany)
            Rocker Cover Gasket                           £10
            Bolt for compensator (One time use)    £5
            Hire Of Locking Tool                             £19 (1 weeks hire) (£100 deposit)
    
    See link for other tooling

Good luck if you decide to go down this avenue.

Paul

Edited 4 October, 20178 yr by Extreme3d
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