How do I replace this sucker? I have standard sized hands and fingers with only three joints.

When a dealer replaced mine on a Fabia, he took the panel off the dashboard (the one that is at the end).  It unclips but you need to use a screwdriver or panel removing tool to get it off so be careful.  Access to the switch is then easier but is still fiddly.

Been there, done that. I can't get to the regulator from that side even after removing light switch.

Finally, done. But It wouldn't be possible without use of advanced tool: wire hanger.