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Easiest way to get to the Diverter Valve & replace ?


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Hi

Which is easiest from the top or bottom of the engine to replace the DV?

I have brought the upgraded one with the piston head. Can anyone help and give some pointers if they have done it please. This is for the 2008 pre fl 2.0tfsi octavia vrs.

I found this video on youtube

but i still weren't so sure, as the quality is a little dark. I guess its from the bottom of the engine after removing the tray?

Thanks Ryan

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Edited by Octavia_VRS
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Yes that's correct. Quite easy. Undo connector, 3x 5mm (if I remember rightly)Allen key bolts. Pull out old one shove in new one etc. Bit fiddly to do upper bolt as working blind but easy enough as long as bolt heads aren't f@@@d. Make sure Allen key in well before turning as can strip bolt head and then it's a nightmare!

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Yes that's correct. Quite easy. Undo connector, 3x 5mm (if I remember rightly)Allen key bolts. Pull out old one shove in new one etc. Bit fiddly to do upper bolt as working blind but easy enough as long as bolt heads aren't f@@@d. Make sure Allen key in well before turning as can strip bolt head and then it's a nightmare!

I bet ill have more fun taking off the tray underneath than anything else [emoji23]

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Wheel off plastic inner arch off makes it easier, or it can be done on a ramp/lift if you have access to one. Either way its an awkward bugger

Oh right, so rather than get underneath and remove the tray i can get to it by removing the drivers wheel, then the felt liner stuff in the arch and that in turn exposes the dv?

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Yes mate, its awkward but thats how I've done it the last couple of times on mine.

Oh ok i might try that first as i only have a trolley jack and axle stands. I sold my ramps about 3 years ago... Wish i hadnt now. With the wheel off is it visible the dv and the 3 t5 bolts u have to remove?

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Once the liners off you'll see it, easier with Alan head sockets and a couple of extension bars

Yeah i think i have those in my socket set.... Ill give it a go tomo. Also need to do my coil packs and spark plugs...

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Well i failed lol. Didnt have anything small enough for the bolts. Got one out with a torx bit on my impact driver when i went through the wheel arch. I couldnt get the top or the far left one out. So not sure whether to just give up and go to a garage lol. What size are the heads? T5?

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Not T5. 5mm Allen (hex). Using a torx bit will knacker up the bolt head and then it's game over. If at first you don't succeed etc lol. Go in from underneath lying on your back and reach up.

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I think my big issue is my drive way has a downwardslope and i tried accessing the vehicle by pull it sideways across so it was more level. Jacking up the drivers side. But going in via the wheel arch i could undo one bolt but not the other two. This morning i thought if i had jacked up the other side and left it on an axle stand and jacked up the ds again i could of then moved the steering wheel to move the disc or moved it manually which may of been enough. The reason i abit concerned cus of the slope. Ill show u a pic so u can c what i mean. Perhaps someone can give me some tips. I have ordered off amazon some allen sockets coming tonight between 6-10pm

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Edited by Octavia_VRS
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Not T5. 5mm Allen (hex). Using a torx bit will knacker up the bolt head and then it's game over. If at first you don't succeed etc lol. Go in from underneath lying on your back and reach up.

Yeah i noticed. [emoji22] what bolt size are they as i dont have a caliper. I may order one off ebay

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I think they are m8 not sure on length. Maybe 15mm? Mine were slightly corroded and the Allen key would not sit in perfectly but managed to do it just. Just make sure your in well and lined up before undoing the bolt. You could probably replace the Allen bolts with normal bolts when you refit (up to you I guess). Good luck.

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You need a long extension then you can get them through the wheel arch. Takes a bit of patience but you'll get there.

I had those but no 5mm allen socket lol only 6mm. Ive seen read its better to use 1/4" wrench to get in and out with. I have sent back the Upgraded Pierburg Piston Diverter Valve 06H 145 710D and brought the GFB DV as i didnt realise the OE part was a solenoid and after making a decision i thought lets try GFB instead. Although some people on here from older posts imply it makes no difference changing the DV but if the diaphram is split it surely can only improve things. I am having the paintwork done tomo and thursday and a full service on friday.

I let kwikfit do an oil change in march. I have had my oil light come on once, had two put in 1l of oil twice. So i am getting my normal mech to change, oil, oil filter, magnetic sump plug, fuel filter, spark plugs, coil packs, DV, then i have brought BOA Engine supplement PN 110 and to get rid of the **** oil kwikfit have clearly used is BG EPR pn109e.

Hopefully after all this and last week having a new battery, PCV Delete and f&r arbs and new droplinks it will be like a new car.

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Edited by Octavia_VRS
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If you were a bit closer i'd give you a hand

Thanks, very good of you to nearly offer lol [emoji1303] hopefully my trusty mech shall have it all done for me on friday. Then i can go out for the day on saturday and see how it is.

Once thing ive noticed since the 24mm fromt whiteline arb. Over humps and quite rough ground and when pulling/breaking there this annoying noise. The guy who did it near i work said this was because of the droplinks that i had with the second hand arb were rubbing on the driveshaft. Since changing them back to OE it has solved most of it.

When going in via the wheel arch i noticed the postion was in stiff whereas i asked the front to be on medium and the rear stiff. Im wondering if having the front on stiff is causing this extra spongy crashier noise over speed humps which werent there on the OE front arb.

I saw some people fit an anti lift kit supplied by whiteline but im not sure this would solve my issue as after reading what it does to the camber which i know on hunter 4 wheel laser alignment cant be adjusted on stock vrs sports suspension.

I took a video ill see if the noise can be heard so you can see what i mean.

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Thanks, very good of you to nearly offer lol [emoji1303] hopefully my trusty mech shall have it all done for me on friday. Then i can go out for the day on saturday and see how it is.

Once thing ive noticed since the 24mm fromt whiteline arb. Over humps and quite rough ground and when pulling/breaking there this annoying noise. The guy who did it near i work said this was because of the droplinks that i had with the second hand arb were rubbing on the driveshaft. Since changing them back to OE it has solved most of it.

When going in via the wheel arch i noticed the postion was in stiff whereas i asked the front to be on medium and the rear stiff. Im wondering if having the front on stiff is causing this extra spongy crashier noise over speed humps which werent there on the OE front arb.

I saw some people fit an anti lift kit supplied by whiteline but im not sure this would solve my issue as after reading what it does to the camber which i know on hunter 4 wheel laser alignment cant be adjusted on stock vrs sports suspension.

I took a video ill see if the noise can be heard so you can see what i mean.

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The mech (not my usual one as he was recommended to me By work colleagues as its up the road from where i work) who did the arbs said this happens because of the poly bush rather than the rubber OE use. It probably dont sound as bad on the video but it is and i have to go over a few roads to and from work with speed humps. Plus it happens when pulling away and stopping gradually. https://vimeo.com/173543987

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