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Small chip with rust in it

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I've got a small road chip on the pillar between the windscreen and the driver door. Chip is about 3mm to 4mm in diameter and I'd say no more than 2mm deep. But there is rust in the chip.

How should I treat it? Main concern is to stop the rust spreading.

I would probably use Kurust. It'll turn blue or black after treatment so bear that in mind.

scrape away rust surface as best as possible back to bare metal. use the tip of a craft knife or scalpel. apply a rustkiller and leave as instructed. apply a coat of primer within the chip, if neccessary use a cocktail stick or modellers paintbrush to keep the area small and neat. when dry, topcoat(s) in same manner. when fully dry, you can "flat and polish" if you want it perfect. if not, just leave as is.

  • 6 months later...

What rust killer do people prefer? Kurust? Bilt Hamber Deox Gel?

Edited by planehazza

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

I used Kurust on a few chips that were beginning to rust and the rust turned black. 

 

What at should be the next steps, primer then touch up?

 

Attached is a picture of the worst offender post application of Kurust. 

IMG_1678.JPG

Google fibreglass rust brush. I would not use a chemical on such a small spot as it's likely to creep under the remaining paint. 

 

Ive used the brushes in the past and they work a treat. 

  • Author
2 minutes ago, Metblackrat said:

Google fibreglass rust brush. I would not use a chemical on such a small spot as it's likely to creep under the remaining paint. 

 

Ive used the brushes in the past and they work a treat. 

I did actually use one of those, and whilst it took away a lot of the rust, it couldn't get it all. 

 

I applied a very thin layer of the Kurust, so hopefully it hasn't been too bad for the paint. 

grey primer, 800 grade paper over primer. more primer if required to get flat, 800 grade again extending onto existing paint. 1500 grade paper out over the existing top coat (clear coat). paint colour coat. apply clear coat (lacquer). Always follow drying times specified. Leave for a few weeks for clear coat to harden. Polish to blend into existing clear coat.

Looks like your colour is rosso brunello metallic.

  • Author
33 minutes ago, Rooon said:

grey primer, 800 grade paper over primer. more primer if required to get flat, 800 grade again extending onto existing paint. 1500 grade paper out over the existing top coat (clear coat). paint colour coat. apply clear coat (lacquer). Always follow drying times specified. Leave for a few weeks for clear coat to harden. Polish to blend into existing clear coat.

Looks like your colour is rosso brunello metallic.

That's great, thanks. Any recommendations for the primer and paint? Yes, it's brunello rosso. 

  • Author
1 hour ago, Rooon said:

used this last time http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310859947126 

 

but for a small touch up I'd use the standard Skoda touch up kit, such as this one. You'll still need to get primer.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-ROSSO-BRUNELLO-TOUCH-UP-PAINT-PENCIL-9893-F3X-X7X7-HFB380093/331751773113

Most primers seem to be spray on, should I get brush on? 

 

Is is all the sanding dry?

Edited by silasramsbottom

10 hours ago, silasramsbottom said:

Most primers seem to be spray on, should I get brush on? 

 

Is is all the sanding dry?

 

Wet, with soapy water for lubrication.  You want 2000 grit for cutting, 2500 for smoothing.

The base of all rust killers is phosphoric acid. So why not buy a small bottle of acid, put a drop acid in 2 drops water and set one drop of the mixture on the chip hole.

When the brown rust will turn to black, it´s finished and there will be never ever rust again. Neutralize the black surface with clear water, let it dry and than a drop of primer for filling the hole and a drop of touch paint. 

When the color totally dried up some days later, you can sand wet with 2500 for smoothing 

 

Advantage: The acid bottle never will dry up as the stuff like Kurust, Bilt Hamber, Deox Gel, Terroson Antirust etc...

 

If you have the stuff for soft soldering, the cleaning fluid contains also phosphoric acid.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Essentials-pH-Down-250ml-pH-Control-81-Phosphoric-Acid-Hydroponics-/272069239494?hash=item3f589722c6:g:L8cAAOSwAodWE8Zy

Edited by 0ctavist

  • Author
22 minutes ago, 0ctavist said:

The base of all rust killers is phosphoric acid. So why not buy a small bottle of acid, put a drop acid in 2 drops water and set one drop of the mixture on the chip hole.

When the brown rust will turn to black, it´s finished and there will be never ever rust again. Neutralize the black surface with clear water, let it dry and than a drop of primer for filling the hole and a drop of touch paint. 

When the color totally dried up some days later, you can sand wet with 2500 for smoothing 

 

Advantage: The acid bottle never will dry up as the stuff like Kurust, Bilt Hamber, Deox Gel, Terroson Antirust etc...

 

If you have the stuff for soft soldering, the cleaning fluid contains also phosphoric acid.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Essentials-pH-Down-250ml-pH-Control-81-Phosphoric-Acid-Hydroponics-/272069239494?hash=item3f589722c6:g:L8cAAOSwAodWE8Zy

What primer (I know it should be grey, but when I search on Amazon, I can only see spray paint primer which doesn't seem appropriate here)?

Problem with with paint on rust treatments is only applied to the visible surface rust. Sanding, paint (little by little) and polish is the best method.

You can use a hole punch to cut out some small rounds of paper that you can apply to the rubber on a pencil. Rotating this over the damaged area and little overlap keeps the repair area small. 

Buy a spray primer and spray a bit in the  can cap....now you have your drop!:biggrin: Use a Q-tip, a toothpick or a wooden match to apply the drops of the acid mixture, the primer and the color !

The acidmixture is so fluid, it crawls in all open rusty ends and reacts with the rust of the chip hole.....with sanding down to bare metal the repair will get bigger and bigger...

 

But for small chips like that, you don´t need a primer. The black surface of the acid reaction is hard enough to grip the color direct. Fill up the hole drop by drop (let dry each drop first) with color and then sand or polish the spot down to the rest of the color level

 

If you have an electric rotating polisher, you can smooth it after some days very easy...otherwise you must smooth it a bit carefully by hand with 2500 wet and then polish it up with wax

Edited by 0ctavist

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Don't think I have the guts to do the proper repair with sanding, filler and touch up paint.

 

Anyone tried Chipex?

Chipex works well but doesn't last.

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