I'm not a convert! (rear brakes)

[Phil866]

Well a few weekends ago I replaced the front discs and pads on my 2010 1.2 htp (£49.99 with trade discount) without issue. As easy as the old Kia Rio. Today it was strip down and clean the rear brakes day. Although the car has done 42,000 mile it has a full main dealer service history, the last being the 40,000 mile 3 months ago before I bought the car from dad. It took me about an hour to remove the alloys which were well corroded onto the hub. A breaker bar and squares of oak were required. Once they were off it was easy to see that the drums had never been removed in their lives. No wonder the adjusters had stopped working and the shoes were scraping on the backplate, not to mention the awful brake squeal when stopping. A few bangs with the old trusty 2lb hammer (I am an ex mechanic from when drums were often found on the front as well as the rear) revealed clouds of black dust and that heat was going to be needed to shift them. I have no heat so gave up and left it at sanding down the hubs and coating in copper grease so at least I can get the wheels off in the event of a puncture.

I thought that I would be pleased to get away from having to remove the hub nut and bearing to access the rear brakes, but not any more. I much prefer drums on light cars (my Kia Rio was still on the original drums and shoes at 120.000 miles, and the automatic adjusters never stuck) but these, which have the Audi symbol on them, are a nightmare.

I know it's a servicing (or lack of) issue but I felt that you would understand if I had a whinge.    Anyone any tips before I turn it over to a garage? 

 

     

[Wonky]

It can be a real pain but you need to find the wedge that is part of the adjustment mechanism, there are a few videos on YouTube that may help.

Once you pop these up, the shoes will retract and the drums are a simple job to remove. They are accessible through the wheel retaining bolt holes when you have the wheel off. Once you have done 1 the other side will be a breeze.

This may help, first one I found.

Edited 21 September, 2016 by Wonky

[Phil866]

It can be a real pain but you need to find the wedge that is part of the adjustment mechanism, there are a few videos on YouTube that may help.

Once you pop these up, the shoes will retract and the drums are a simple job to remove. They are accessible through the wheel retaining bolt holes when you have the wheel off. Once you have done 1 the other side will be a breeze.

 

Good advice but the shoes are not the issue as the adjusters are not working anyway. Its the drums that have rusted solid on the hubs that are the problem. Just a quick flash with the old oxyacetylene would do the trick, but sadly I don't have any. :no:   Thanks anyway Wonky. 

[Wonky]

Ahh! Sorry about that, my bad. That's a real pain.