Wonky

Peace and harmony restored! Glad you’re sorted. Someone else posted that they too had replaced the tensioner without removing top cover etc. I wasn’t sure if there was any risk of chain movement on the sprockets hence my approach. Good to know it’s not.

Unfortunately I did not record the measurements, I will be obvious when you remove the top cover I think. Yep, I just used it as you say to keep the chain against the sprocket. Incidentally, you will need new sealant too. Think I still have the type I used if you need more info.

I only removed the black plastic top cover. It was just the chain that was visible but my thinking was, keeping the chain tensioned would ensure it could not move off the sprockets.

My car is a CBZA 1.2 TSI 63Kw. I started to experience this rattle around 3 years ago. I changed the tensioner with the latest revision which is what it probably already had fitted, (2013) car and it’s been fine since then. I removed the top black plastic cover. Placed some microfibre cloth around the chain to prevent any sealant falling into the timing cover area whilst I removed the old sealant, then vacuumed the cloth area to remove silicone debris. Then made a wooden wedge which was placed between the chain and casing above the tensioner to maintain the chain tension and replaced the tensioner after priming it in fresh oil. Not sure if this was necessary but it is what I did. New sealant and job done. Only took approximately 45 minutes or so.

Thanks for your reply, I read that earlier too. I removed the sensor and checked for wiring faults , leaks etc. On replacing and reconnecting the plugs, the light is now out and fault codes have disappeared. I guess I’ll just have to see what happens in the next few days.

Morning, this morning I have an engine management light on. Scanned with Carista which gave codes P0106 and 06361. P0106 I see relates to manifold pressure and MAP sensor but the 06361 I can not find information on. Not had an issue before the engine management light appeared this morning. Car was running fine. Tried resetting 06361, Carista reported “faults successfully reset but came back”. Is it possible to test the MAP sensor or is replacement the way forward? Fabia 2 1.2 TSI.

When you push them back, clamp the hose and undo bleed nipple and collect the used excess fluid rather than allow it to travel back through the braking system. Top up with clean fluid.

Glad it’s all sorted.

Do you think it’s burning oil to produce the blue smoke? Rings and guides could be worn possibly too.

Agreed. The set I quoted was only to give an example really I thought £12:99 from a retailer that you could get immediately was a possibility to consider rather than pay £30 from a tyre depot. Having used the kit you could sell it on and recover a few pounds too should you decide you are unlikely to need it again.

Something like these? Not tried them myself but may be worthwhile considering if they are a suitable size. https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/masterpro-wheel-nut-and-stud-removal-tool-set-538771521?type=shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw1K75BRAEEiwAd41h1Mll_MbVKpc_aWViveVp-F9sxp7w9LN1FwEWGsjpMNw-DS3L-yyRjRoC0bQQAvD_BwE

We’re you bleeding it with the drum off?

Just for information, I have had a Bluespark tuning box fitted to a 1.2TSI for 6+ years. I did not want to remap my car during warranty for obvious reasons but I knew a remap would be the better option overall. My car was one of the last special offer types that came with only the 63kw option unlike the test drive 105 BHP car. Never had an issue and it makes the car so much more flexible with the extra bit of low down torque. I don’t thrash it or use the engine as a boy racer might. I did think I might get a proper remap but I now do not see the point as it makes the car suit my driving style. I told my insurance company and it only added £20 to my premium so not a big deal. I can of course Remove it if I sell the dog kennel and sell the box on eBay and recoup a few quid no doubt, or ask Bluespark to program it to suit my next vehicle should I be inclined, unless of course I go all electric. So, not advocating anyone getting one or the other, just giving my own reasons and experience with a tuning box. Discuss....😄

One is CBZA and the other is CBZB engine. Not checked the difference but google may help you. You can of course tune your engine by a map or Tuning box such as Bluespark or similar.

Not sure if there is any help for you in this thread. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/335453-inspection-now-reset/#comment-4052076

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia- -iii/ Here you go.

From memory I think these bolts have a dome shaped head, well on my car. I know I had to use a centre punch on one of the bolts on outer edge of the bolt head to start it moving. (Even after liberal penetrating oil). It was easier in my case as I was replacing the wheel bearing and access was easier as hub was out of the way.

My rear windows do this too, just a few mm over a week or so. Speed humps seem to exacerbate the issue so I’m forever checking to keep rain out.

Yes, Red and white looks to be the main supply in my Haynes manual.

Are all of these functions managed by the convenience module? I believe there have been similar threads with similar faults as yours due to issues with this module. Possibly water ingress or corrosion of the cables. May be worth a search of the forum.

Glad you’re sorted.

Pin 59 is listed an engine code BLS Diesel and pin 24 is indeed petrol.

Depending on engine code it could be pin59 or pin 24 according to my manual. This is fog cars up to 02/2010.

As above, two memories. There is a small round button underside of the stalk. Press this and it will toggle between the two.

I fitted an LED to my reversing light, made a bit of an improvement. Still have to resort to the old school method of using hazard warning lights when reversing in unlit lanes etc. Obviously not on all the time but certainly helps a lot.