VRS DPF removal/replacement how to?

[phil5556]

Hi

Has anyone got any info or a guide on how to get the DPF off a PD170 VRS please?

I can see the clamp on the side of the turbo and know which sensors to unplug but what else needs removing to get it out?

Cheers

[silver1011]

Does the exhaust not need cutting too?

 

Are you gutting it or replacing it?

[phil5556]

Don't know if it needs cutting or if it's in 2 sections?

My plan is a secondhand low mileage replacement, and see how I go from there.

[antiprosperous]

Hi, just found this after searching for a guide myself.

 

Iv spent all afternoon trying to remove my dpf. 

 

ASSUMING YOU HAVEN'T FIGURED IT OUT ALREADY - if so pm me a guide coz it'd be so much easier doing it by instruction rather than spending days ripping bits off and smashing things about willy-nilly till i find the answer lol.

 

Under the car it is attached to the exhaust about half way down the car so u'l have to risk breaking into those old exhaust C clamps that have been there for years hehe, mine broke :( and there is a weird bracket that kinda looks like a coat hanger bolted to the back of the sub frame. After that its just 2 bolts holding the dpf on a little shelf behind the engine below where the egr cooler is or was as of today.

 

At this point it's relatively easy to move but just for some reason cant quite seem to get out. After spending a good hour or so waggling it back and forth I decided it'd be **** loads easier if i removed the OS drive shaft.

 

That's where i'm at right now lol.

Edited 8 March, 2017 by antiprosperous

[salam0506]

That sounds like a mission - I have recently had the dreaded limp mode and all the warning lights flashing after letting my DPF clog up for too long. I was actually trying to get the car mapped last week but it flashed up a MAF sensor error so the mapper didn't do it and so I have since replaced the MAF but the DPF has caused it to go into limp mode now instead (i think that is it anyways). If it seems like such a hassle to remove do you think its worth just letting the garage sort it since they are hopefully going to do the map as well? Still conflicted about whether to remove the DPF completely or not along with the EGR. I seem to always have issues with them on my other VAG diesel cars in the past.  

Even contemplating getting rid of the skoda all together - but can't be sold in this state - could I maybe somehow force it to regen and use one of those DPF cleaner solutions?

 

Any information would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

Seenan

[salam0506]

That sounds like a mission - I have recently had the dreaded limp mode and all the warning lights flashing after letting my DPF clog up for too long. I was actually trying to get the car mapped last week but it flashed up a MAF sensor error so the mapper didn't do it and so I have since replaced the MAF but the DPF has caused it to go into limp mode now instead (i think that is it anyways). If it seems like such a hassle to remove do you think its worth just letting the garage sort it since they are hopefully going to do the map as well? Still conflicted about whether to remove the DPF completely or not along with the EGR. I seem to always have issues with them on my other VAG diesel cars in the past.  

Even contemplating getting rid of the skoda all together - but can't be sold in this state - could I maybe somehow force it to regen and use one of those DPF cleaner solutions?

 

Any information would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

Seenan

[antiprosperous]

If you have the Ross-Tech hex can 12.12 cable and a laptop you can use vcds to do a forced regen. 

 

Open program > Select Control Module > Engine > Coding > input 21295 then hit enter. or something like that, it should say "coding accepted" or again, something like that.

 

If your gona give it a try you need to make sure you have a good long stretch of road where you can get up to speed and stay there for a while. I do it on my town bypass in the evening 60 in 3rd gives it a proper blast lol.

 

Also, make sure you have all electrical consumers on: lights, heaters, heated rear window, heated mirrors etc...

 

Youl need to start it somewhere where you can get right up to speed straight away as sittin in traffic on the way to the run with with it in regen mode will just confuse and even if you get there itl probably not do it right and ul have to try again.

 

Coil light will probably stop once DPF reaches a more normal level but dpf light will stay on as long as it is trying to regen so keep your foot in it, if you can, until all the lights go out.

 

 

 

I think thats about the sum of it all

 

And yes, its been a full day of tinkering again. gave up with the dpf in the end with hopes to purchase a new section of flex pipe so i can cut the extrusion from the bottom of the dpf so it can just come straight out without having to be twisted and squeezed into a different shape lol. 

 

PM me if you have any other queries

 

 

EDIT: I found that innnotech dpf doctor seems to work OK, being as its the only one i plucked up courage to try and to be fair i did notice a difference. you still need to regen it once its done though. The difference is, when you regen after dpf doctor you can see the thick plumes of ****e comin out the back so it must be doing something right. it was about 20 off ebay and its a fairly simple job. open up any access to inside the dpf, i yanked out the pre temp sensor, then just squirt the stuff in, make sure you do it in stages as it helps full absorption. once its all gone leave it for about 10 minutes or so then connect everything back up and start her up. let her idle for a while and warm up before heading out to do a regen.

 

Happy days  

 

Edited 9 March, 2017 by antiprosperous