Brake fluid change - Bleed.

[2goat]

Hi, I've now been quoted £40 to have the brake fluid changed completely.

I don't want to mess about with it because I've found it difficult as it is just to get into the brake fluid reservoir just to see the level. 

( I haven't got a warning light. Though had difficulty trying to see the level even by using a phone scope camera )

Though the garage told me all they'll do is suck all the old out and put new in.

My question is does this mean the brakes will be bled at the same time or is that another job ?

Thanks. 

Edited 12 February, 2017 by 2goat

[James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale]

The fluid should ideally be bled/forced out using a pressure bleeder. 

 

 

[2goat]

Thanks. Is that what the garage will use ?

[boneman]

If the garage has said they will change the brake fluid completely and have quoted for that then that is what they should do. Challenge them on this fact face to face and if the won't confirm then walk away. I think the brake fluid reservoir is visible once engine cover is removed, check youtube for possible video.

 

 

[2goat]

OK thanks for your help. If I could get into the reservoir easier I'd take my time and do it. But have the MOT coming up and think best to get it done fully.

I just wanted it clear in my head that changing the fluid also means the brakes will be bleed when finished at well.

That it's all one job.  

( Sound's right though want to make sure.  Seen youtube and it looks very much the same as bleeding.)

Thanks. 

[Tilt]

Well, if they don't bleed them after changing the fluid then they have not done the job properly, but..................

 

Don't be scared of asking them. I doubt they would laugh at you for querying this, after all it is your safety, and their reply may give you an indication as to wether you would use them in the future, or not.

[countryboy]

Surely the idea of a brake fluid change is to bleed the old fluid out of the slave cylinders and keep topping up the master cylinder? I think James@RRGRochdale will correct me if I'm wrong but don't you have to connect the car up to the computer in order for the ABS system to be bled through too?

Ian

[James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale]

If you use the correct equipment then the use of diagnostic equipment is not necessary.

[Generic_Username]

The garages use a pressure bleed system which runs off the airline used for the tools. Most decent sized garages will have one of these, but ask, and ask to see how it works (this is a subtle way of checking they do actually have it without needing say "don't trust you")

 

If there's a local Indy who does all the taxis round your way, then they'll almost certainly have it - Taxis are usually serviced to the button on things like fluid swaps on brakes in case anything goes legal after an accident. 

 

If you're near Hove, then there's a small Indy guy I know who does almost all the Brighton taxi Octavias, and I've actually watched him do this very job on a diesel one

[2goat]

Thanks for all your help. I know I probably sound like I'm making a meal of this. It does seem very straight forward.

Though I have the MOT next week and the car has never had any marks against it on any other MOT from new. Not even under tray. 

( One owner from new before me - an old guy - and he looked after it..) 

But first is safety. 

I managed to get into the brake fluid reservoir with a turkey baster, then found there was an insert which I couldn't pull out.

I topped it up a bit anyway, not much ( Stupid place to get into even with the cover off..) and the brakes firmed up very slightly.

I'm not going to mess about with brakes when for 40 quid someone will do it. ( Kwik Fit..I know.. But another garage in London wants 50.. And I know my way around a car, basically, but trying to do the job on the street would do my nut in, then I'll get some idiot poking their nose in. Council ?

The brakes are solid at the top when I pump twice and when pushed once they come on straight away hard but for being slightly lower - about 1/4 travel - and with greater force I can push the peddle down further. A bit like pushing on firm rubber.

I'll know once they've been done what they should feel like.  There's new pads on the front 6K ago and the back pads look like they have 1cm on them. I read minimum is 2mm of pad. 

Thanks for all the info. 

Edited 14 February, 2017 by 2goat