James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale

Just about every owner with a KESSY system will probably have this at some point, the keys do a lot more than a conventional key and sap the battery faster as a result. In all fairness you've done well to get 12 months out of a KESSY key battery. The best advice I can offer is: -Replace the battery every 6 months -Upgrade from a cr2025 to a cr2032 -Don't buy cheap batteries that are 20 for a quid. Buy varta, duracell, Panasonic etc

They were Brembo pads, supposed to be just as good if not better than Bosch or EBC according to some. For the minimal price difference (about 15 quid) I replaced them with genuine skoda pads.

Probably ties in with the increase in all their parts prices direct from the supplier.

I've had trouble with both the front and rear pads. I thought "I'll buy some premium parts from a well respected company instead of genuine" The fronts were a poor fit, banged on every bump in the road and the rears started squeaking after a couple of months. I swapped the fronts out for skoda pads and had to remove and deglaze the rears. The discs are good and come painted but the pads were a bad fit. I found a few instances of the same issue online.

It might happen in some businesses but not all of them. Seems a little harsh to label all dealers after a negative experience with one.

Both sets of pads are the same shape but the 340mm ones are much bigger. Don't make the mistake I did and order some from euro that seemed a good price and they were for the 312mm brakes when I have 340mm. Also I'd avoid brembo pads, they rattled like a tray of plates and I had to replace them after 20 miles.

Just so people are aware any approved used vehicles have to have a full diagnostic log sent online during the check and any existing faults rectified. Once rectified and the fault memory cleared down a minimum 2 mile road test and further diagnostic log has to be sent. Any issues present at the time of the second log or failure to send a log in the first place means the supplying dealer could be liable for the repair costs.

No problem 🙂

Normal skoda pads are ATE Skoda ECO are made by Mando

It's 30NM

Metal 19mm sump plug with a captive washer and a metal canister type filter.

Best to bring it up when you book the car in so they have chance to order the part ready for the job. Don't just roll up and expect them to have one on the shelf. They're relatively easy to replace and live on top of the heater box.

There's only the 1.8 and 2.0 that have plastic sumps.

Your car will most likely have a metal sump and plug. You'll probably notice very few issues if you use the wrong oil. You might not achieve the quoted emissions or consumption figures? Personally I'd be sticking to the correct oil if my car was under warranty.

Straight swap

From a warranty perspective the seat heating pad is an electrical item that has failed in an electrical manner. Be that an open circuit or resistive fault within the pad. I dare say it may have even logged a fault code. It's not considered a trim by any means but it is part of the seat, which that policy excludes.

To be honest I hardly see any repeat failures of DMFs and we maintain dozens of taxis, The North West ambulance service fleet and GMPs vehicles. The latter 2 get driven to absolute death.

Personally I'd be asking the dealer who you purchased it from to be covering the cost of the repair if you've only had it 3 months. If they won't claim any responsibility for it then skoda customer care will probably help out.

Replace it like for like. You'll end up with more juddering from a single mass and be no further forward. Use decent parts like Sachs/LUK or genuine which will be manufactured by the aforementioned.

Did you buy it from a Skoda main dealer?

If the car needs your help to regen it will bring up a warning on the dash. The coil light won't flash up on it's own for a dpf soot loading related issue.

I've come across a few in the dealership but they're very few and far between on the kodiaq. Keep the seals clean Remove any moss Make sure nothing gets trapped in the guides Don't use pressurised water to clean the roof

If the light is flashing and presumably going into limp mode there will be an underlying issue. The coil light usually indicates an issue with but not limited to: The boost system The throttle The fuel system Have the dealer scan it but don't leave it. It will come back on at some point. The outer brake light issue has been buried by the introduction of hot bulb monitoring systems.

You should be checking your tyre pressures regularly anyway. Just like your oil, screenwash, coolant, lights etc. These systems are there to highlight a problem as and when it occurs. They don't eradicate the need for basic maintenance. I could retire if I had a quid for every time I've had to top up someone's fluids or tyre pressures because they couldn't be bothered or didn't know how to.

PM me your chassis number and I'll have a look.