I had issues with reverse jumping out of gear so I cracked open the gearbox. It was my first time ever. There were big pieces missing from the cogs. So I decided to get a new primary shaft, replaced all the bearings (not the differential side bearings) and synchronizing rings. A friend of mine just said that it's not so important with these old Skodas, just put everything back together (the car is only driven a few hundred kilometres a year) as it was. I've not touched the differential at all, just lifted it out of the gearbox.

Any thoughts? Does anyone know how to set up the pinion / crown wheel backlash?

Thank you in advance.

Jos perävälityksen hammaskosketus on ollut kohdallaan tähän asti, niin ei sitä tarvinne korjailla kun et ole tehnyt mitään muutoksia jotka vaikuttaisivat siihen. Jos haluat tarkastaa hammaskosketuksen, niin tarvitset siniväriä jota sivelet pariin putsattuun lautaspyörän hampaaseen ja pyörität sitten sen kohdan läpi. Jos kosketuskohta on lautasen hampaan kärjessä tai tyvessä, pitää perää siirtää ja jos kosketus on etu- tai takaosassa, niin vastaavasti akselia. Siniväriä saa esim. paikallisesta Teollisuuspalvelusta tai vast., mutta voit hätätilassa korvata sinivärin vaikkapa MoS rasvalla tai jollain muulla jäykällä mutta ohuella tahmalla, johon jää kosketusjälki mutta kuitenkaan ei ole niin paksua että haittaisi hampaiden liukumista toisiaan vasten. Käytännön syistä kannattaa värjätty kohta merkitä siihen vetarin kolon luo koska joudut laittamaan kotelon kiinni kun pyörität vaihteistoa.

 

For the majority of english speaking readers, I am deeply sorry for writing this in finnish..

Google translation of @MotorsportFinland last:-

 

"If the rear gearing tooth contact has been in place until now, so it does not need hardly touch up when you have not made any changes that would affect it. If you want to check tooth engagement, so you need a blue-green color which is a couple of Applying lubricant to cleaned crown to the tooth, and then you will be running through the point. If the contact point is at the top or at the base of the tooth plate, keeping the stern to move and if the touch is the front or the rear of the shaft, respectively. Blue-green color may be eg. The local service industry or resp., But you can replace the emergency mode, the blue color of, say, MoS with grease or some other rigid but thin viscin, which remains the second touch but not so thick that interfere with the teeth sliding against each other. For practical reasons, you should mark the point dyed vetarin creates a column because you have to put the case closed when rotating the gearbox."

 

I think that, in English, this may refer to the use of "engineer's blue", but don't speak Finnish, or have any practical experience of rebuilding gearboxes.

I used Micrometer Engineers Blue and I think the pattern is good enough. So I'm going to put it all back together now. Fingers crossed.