Never had an active regen (nothing indicated in the cluster), but the lowest average speed I've noticed having was 27km/h, if I recall correctly. My overall average is probably 34km/h. I avoid idling and the city during traffic jam times as much as I can. I do long trips at least once a month, usually more often.

 

I've only owned the car for about 15000 km and for the cold period of the year, but my indicated oil temperature has never been very high. Maybe around 90C with old oil, rather lower than higher. After changing the oil the highest I saw was 82C during an hour and a half of mostly (indicated) 100km/h. The water temp gauge never quite hits 90C (stays a sliver lower) and can drop 10-15C after going to city speeds. Usually the oil temp stays between 70-75, even after hours of city speed driving, maybe topping 78C. The thermostat must be on its way out. I've read that it's a PITA to replace, isn't it? I'm guessing changing it shouldn't be put off for too long in order to keep the oil, turbo, dpf etc. working at optimal temperatures.

Edited 10 May, 20179 yr by TLV

You should smell burn rubber during regens and fan on the radiator will be on so the smell will be most noticeable behind the car.

Ah, that's exactly what I smelled when I bought the car and took it home. I remember it smelling like that all the time for the first week or maybe even two. Thought I hadn't smelled it for so long I had trouble putting the smell into words due to remembering it so terribly. Still, no lights on the dash about it when it smelled, felt the same to drive as well.

Edited 10 May, 20179 yr by TLV

1 hour ago, TLV said:

Never had an active regen (nothing indicated in the cluster), but the lowest average speed I've noticed having was 27km/h, if I recall correctly. My overall average is probably 34km/h. I avoid idling and the city during traffic jam times as much as I can. I do long trips at least once a month, usually more often.

 

I've only owned the car for about 15000 km and for the cold period of the year, but my indicated oil temperature has never been very high. Maybe around 90C with old oil, rather lower than higher. After changing the oil the highest I saw was 82C during an hour and a half of mostly (indicated) 100km/h. The water temp gauge never quite hits 90C (stays a sliver lower) and can drop 10-15C after going to city speeds. Usually the oil temp stays between 70-75, even after hours of city speed driving, maybe topping 78C. The thermostat must be on its way out. I've read that it's a PITA to replace, isn't it? I'm guessing changing it shouldn't be put off for too long in order to keep the oil, turbo, dpf etc. working at optimal temperatures.

 

If you have driven 15000Kms you have had many many active regens.

 

I'm convinced the horrific pictures of blocked EGR valves are from countries which have poor quality diesel. I've had many high mileage diesels and typically don't drive long distances and have never had any sort of build up that would cause reduction in performance or any problems.

 

As Silver said previously, most of the newer EGR failures were due to a malfunction of the device rather than it getting blocked up. 

 

And also a turbo full off soot and carbon has nothing to do with EGR, all of the exhaust fumes go through the turbo anyway so its going to get a little bit of build up over time regardless.

 

Of course our cars would be better off without EGR but the fact is they are required and unless you have issues with it I wouldn't worry about it.

Edited 10 May, 20179 yr by SuperbTWM

I agree. My EGR had done 179,000 miles and looked fine (see pic) A bit grubby obviously but nothing to worry about.

 

 

Edited 10 May, 20179 yr by andy-fisher

You think thats "fine"?

 

pmsl

Yep, looks fine to me.

10 minutes ago, silver1011 said:

Yep, looks fine to me.

 

It's fine as in it still operates as it should. The valve opens with vacuum applied and closes fully when it's released. It's not exactly like the photo you posted which show a serious amount of gunk near enough blocking it. When I consider it has done 179,000 miles I think it does look fine. It's not going to take much to clean it up and I think restriction to air flow is minimal.

I quoted the wrong post. Never mind, I think people know which one I intended to quote.

 

Starting to wonder if Lichfielddriver sells EGR delete pipes now....

Edited 11 May, 20179 yr by andy-fisher

2 hours ago, silver1011 said:

Yep, looks fine to me.

Yep, totally fine.

 

I've seen ones with a lot more build up around the valve stem and still working perfectly.

 

The beauty of these valves were they were simple, had no motorised parts or electronics and a piece of cake to replace. Now they are a lot more complicated and made it a right ball ache to remove. That valve must have been an earlier type PD engine as the newer ones had a stepper motor controlled flap that would pull in to increase vacuum on the exhaust side to draw pull in more exhaust gas where as that one just has the vacuum powered anti-shudder flap.

 

 

Edited 11 May, 20179 yr by SuperbTWM

12 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

Yep, totally fine.

 

I've seen ones with a lot more build up around the valve stem and still working perfectly.

 

The beauty of these valves were they were simple, had no motorised parts or electronics and a piece of cake to replace. Now they are a lot more complicated and made it a right ball ache to remove. That valve must have been an earlier type PD engine as the newer ones had a stepper motor controlled flap that would pull in to increase vacuum on the exhaust side to draw pull in more exhaust gas where as that one just has the vacuum powered anti-shudder flap.

 

 

 

You would be right. It's off my 1.9 PD BJB. I only removed it as part of my investigation into a fault (EGR insufficient flow). As I can't be without the car for long I had already bought a spare so replaced it anyway. I still have the fault so I'm quite sure the old valve was fully functional. I have kept it and will clean it up as a spare once I've actually solved the cause of the fault. I'm now looking at a 'new to me' vacuum solenoid or MAF sensor. I changed most of the vacuum lines, only one left to do as I mixed up my measurements and ran out of 3mm ID pipe.

On 11/05/2017 at 22:33, SuperbTWM said:

Now they are a lot more complicated and made it a right ball ache to remove.

 

 

 

thats how they keep upping the price