Yet another a/c question so apologies to all!!. This is a little bit different. My aircon is cold no issues with the system I believe. A leak was traced to the condensor/dryer area a few months back so a new part was fitted by my mechanic, regassed and all ok. However, it seems to take easily 5 minutes from start up to start cooling down and if the system has ran for a while, knocking the car off then back on again takes even longer to cool. I'm suspecting a faulty compressor control valve ( sanden unit ). As it means draining the system to fit one I need to know if this part was at fault, would it show up on a basic code reader? Currently no faults recorded for the A/C.

Hi,

 

You probably need VCDS to read the live data from the A/C ECU, you can do a sensor check, that's how I found out mine was goosed, the valve was not working at all, and no fault codes were stored, as far as the ECU was concerned it was working.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Trev 

30 minutes ago, Aston_Bodger said:

Hi,

 

You probably need VCDS to read the live data from the A/C ECU, you can do a sensor check, that's how I found out mine was goosed, the valve was not working at all, and no fault codes were stored, as far as the ECU was concerned it was working.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Trev 

 

No access to vcds unfortunately. I thought about just taking a punt and changing it as they're not too expensive to buy and it looks possible to change it without removing the compressor. 

       Can I ask you how your A/C was behaving with a bad solenoid?

It just did not work, all I got with VDCS was shut off code was 0 meaning it was working, but when I went in deeper looking at the torque load etc it was not showing anything, so replaced the compressor and condenser all working again now.

 

 

Trev

Mine is working but it seems to take a while. It may just be a case of perseverance until it stops working completely. Hopefully someone who's changed this solenoid can add to this.

It may be working but coming to a certain point in travel and sticking?, without VDCS you wont know, you can change just the N280 valve as its called, depending on what make of compressor you have.

Shame you are not closer, I'm in MK

 

 

Trev

Edited 13 July, 20178 yr by Aston_Bodger

N280 valve. You learn something everyday!! I've seen that code mentioned didn't know it was that one on the compressor. My compressor is a Sanden unit PXE16 I think. The valves are about 40 quid. I'm a few miles from MK I'm in Carlisle. Thanks for the offer though. 

 I certainly believe it's faulty just because of the time it's taking to cool. I suppose it'll fail completely eventually. If the valve is dodgy I'm presuming the fans won't kick in straight away?

Yep that's what its called, its easy to swap over, if you can get one, the system HAS to be discharged first, you might have to drop it out that's easy too, I had to take the boost pipe off and one electrical plug (boost sensor) and then its 3X 13mm bolts, the valve is held by a circlip and once that's off just lightly lever out and replace you might get another circlip I really don't know, but that's how to do it.

 

 

Trev

Edited 14 July, 20178 yr by Aston_Bodger

Just came down to work in the car and it cooled straight away. Popped the bonnet on start up and the fans were running. I'll check again after a run. I've watched a couple of videos on YouTube how to change it but they removed the compressor. The boost pipe is right in front of it so maybe that's why. Like you mentioned though it would be easier to remove the pipe rather than the compressor.

I don't know if you have the room to take out the valve in situ, its a bit tight on space, that's why I suggested take the compressor out and work on a mat on the floor, should take no longer than 10 mins.

 

 

Trev

I'll keep an eye on things but it is working for now. Holidays in 2 weeks so it won't be getting done before then.