2009 Octavia starter motor connector problem

[icarusi@hotmail]

Having the same problem. Have tried moving the tab in and out but no difference. The reply is confusing. "Pull the red tab back (looks like it is already) and then with your thumb pull back on the tab. Sometimes a push in first will help."?

 

This looks similar http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=408994 The red tab(s) on mine are metal. One slides inside the other. I was expecting the right angled part furthest from the motor to detach, but does the whole kludge, including tabs, disconnect from the motor? 

Edited 6 September, 2017 by icarusi@hotmail

[icarusi@hotmail]

Managed to figure it out, sort of. The tab needs to be moved fully away from the motor. The tab acts to wedge a claw, at the opposite end of the connector, to keep it 'locked'. Moving the tab doesn't retract the claw (unless you keep the tab pulled under tension) but there's enough room to get a fingernail under it (although it's hidden under the 'tunnel' housing it) and pull the connector off. If there's only room for one hand at a time, bending a right-angle end of plastic toothpick would serve to wedge the claw up. It's a pretty good connector for lack of movement when locked and double shrouded against the elements but not obvious how to undo. The tabs aren't metal, but pretty tough plastic, as they're quite small. I wouldn't know how much tool strain they'd take though?

 

I'm wanting to operate the solenoid independently of the motor (battery +ve disconnected and a jump lead to the solenoid) but the male connector (assuming a spade) is well shrouded so I'll have make something up to connect to it.

 

Getting the air filter box off again wasn't obvious. A hex socket screw on the top left, a push fit flexible mount on the right and another inside the box, lower left. The front funnel fixed by 2 torx screws. The main air hose to the turbo has a large spring circlip and I don't have that tool so decided to undo the 3 xhead screws at the box end. I have a very small hex ratchet drive, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get at those, ditto torx keys vs torx drivers for the front funnel.

 

There's a 15mm hose threaded between the funnel and box but just enough play to get them both out. The box and funnel do separate but it took a while even out of the car, so tricky in-situ. I think something like a frame clamp would work, but it would need modding to act only on the locking claws of connector, and not compress the whole connection.

Edited 6 September, 2017 by icarusi@hotmail

[icarusi@hotmail]

....and it started so well. I managed to get the solenoid connector off in a single movement this time. I used a fingernail on the tab and could feel the second stage of the tab moving the claw, so I pulled the connector with the thumb and second finger. It's quite easy with the claw disengaged but needs a fingernail to work.

 

I'd disconnected the battery but didn't have a spade connector to reach the male part inside the solenoid connector. I fashioned a piece of plastic coated garden wire so it wedged against the spade connector and blipped the other end on the +ve battery terminal a few times. The solenoid worked ok, as I'd expected, but in future I'll get a spare terminal connector to protect from zapping pits into the battery terminal. Don't know what current the solenoid takes, but it was quite lively. With the terminal disconnected I did check what current the car consumes when 'off' and it was initially 1.09A dropping to 0.29A after a few seconds. I remember the olden days when 'off' *was* off = 0.00A nada etc. just internal cell leakage to consider.

 

I did consider taking off the main motor connector and cleaning it etc., although it looked reasonable, *but* I was stymied by lack of a *thin* spanner to hold the back nut. Honestly who keeps 2-3mm thick spanners around just for this stuff??

 

I put the connector back, locked the tab then reconnected the main hose to the airfilter box with the 3 screws, as it's easier to access the screws with the box loose. Next I pushed the box back over the 2 push-fit posts. Strange things with a conical flange top, but only for 180 not the full 360 degrees. Screwed in the single hex head socket screw, which took some fiddling to get in its fixing hole. Replaced the filter and retainer, then the top cover via 4 xhead screws.

 

Finally the front funnel. That's when I realised the annoying cooling hose was in the wrong position and should be under the large air hose. Fortunately I could get at the 3 screws of the large hose and there was enough play to get the water hose under it. getting the 3 screws back was trickier with the airbox fixed. The lowest can hardly be seen and needs careful placing to avoid dropping into the innards.

 

The front funnel connector to the main box took quite a bit of pushing to get connected, so I doubt they could be easily parted in situ. And finally fixed the funnel to the front mount with the 2 torx screws. This time I used a torx bit in the miniature hex ratchet drive. I could have used the torx keys but it'd be much slower. I'll get another of those min drives. They're too useful to risk losing or mislaying. I've got duplicates or doofers for most tools, but not that.

 

Battery voltage was just over 12.5v. Starter motor worked ok, fired up, went for a spin, got engine up to temperture, gave it a bit of Italian tune up and returned. So now hoping the 'silent click' is past, but know I can swap out the starter motor if it happens.

 

This is the type of 1/4" hex bit drive that works in a tight spot. They're occasionally in £ shops.

 

 

Edited 8 September, 2017 by icarusi@hotmail