This is one of those 'why did you do that, you halfwit?' moments I'm afraid to be admitting to................but creek and no paddle spring to mind!!!!

 

With my car being laid up at the moment, I thought it would be a good idea to throw the optimate on it, just to keep the battery in working order. I couldn't find the crocodile clip ends so had to use the ring end attachments.

 

Cut along story medium length, I've ended up jiggering both terminals trying to get them fitted (the positive connector because I've rounded off the square head when I was tightening it back up and the negative end because I didn't realise it was a captive nut and I unscrewed it off the bolt)

 

Forgive me for that.........

 

Those bits aside, after I've got the battery reattached in some shape, when I've turned the ignition on and started the car, we have more error lights and messages then you can shake a stick at. We've got no stop/start, no ESC, no parking sensors...........there's probably more however I stepped back before I broke anything else.

 

I didn't think I'd disconnected the battery, but with all the movement, I've disturbed it.

 

.......erm...........help.......................please

 

 

 

Ian

Edited 12 November, 20178 yr by tunedude

I think the battery is not properly connected and it's not giving enough power to the whole system (reason for all errors). Or the battery power is low? Sorry my UK english is not the best.

I once left the lights on and killed the battery, so I remember I got all those errors. When I jump started the car all errors were gone.

Edited 12 November, 20178 yr by Croat

You should not connect a battery charger directly  to the battery terminals if the battery is still connected to the car - you might want to read this post on a Golf forum, I believe it still applies to the MK3 Octy

-------------------------------------

 

 Need to be real careful when hooking-up any sort of battery charger on a mk7.

Most (all?) mk7s have a battery monitor which sits on the negative terminal of the battery (see pic below), The purpose of the battery monitor (it's part of the power supply LIN bus) is (amongst other roles) to keep a history of the electrical current that is used/inputted) to/from the battery. It provides most of the basic data for the calculation of what VW calls the System Voltage. System voltage (not battery voltage) is what the control modules use when making decisions related to the vehicle's rail-volts.

Anyhow, it's important when charging a mk7 to INCLUDE the battery monitor in the charging circuit. This means that battery chargers should not be connected directly across the battery (i.e. positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative)

The correct way to charge a mk7 is to hook the positive lead of the charger to the battery positive and the negative lead to the special lug that is near the battery terminal (see picture below) - not to the negative battery terminal. If this isn't done the battery monitor is by-passed and the charging current is never recorded!
Don

 

 

Link to post

 

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=276790.10

 

11 hours ago, tunedude said:

This is one of those 'why did you do that, you halfwit?' moments I'm afraid to be admitting to................but creek and no paddle spring to mind!!!!

 

With my car being laid up at the moment, I thought it would be a good idea to throw the optimate on it, just to keep the battery in working order. I couldn't find the crocodile clip ends so had to use the ring end attachments.

 

Cut along story medium length, I've ended up jiggering both terminals trying to get them fitted (the positive connector because I've rounded off the square head when I was tightening it back up and the negative end because I didn't realise it was a captive nut and I unscrewed it off the bolt)

 

Forgive me for that.........

 

Those bits aside, after I've got the battery reattached in some shape, when I've turned the ignition on and started the car, we have more error lights and messages then you can shake a stick at. We've got no stop/start, no ESC, no parking sensors...........there's probably more however I stepped back before I broke anything else.

 

I didn't think I'd disconnected the battery, but with all the movement, I've disturbed it.

 

.......erm...........help.......................please

 

 

 

Ian

Fault lights will probably all disappear after a short time of engine running/driving.

I've had my other optimate charger on in the past just using crocodile clips and never had any issues

 

I feel it's more been I've had the battery disconnected when I've fiddled about with the connections which has caused the issue.

 

I've changed batteries on other vehicles and never had any bother. Only thing it usually does is wipes the time and the radio needs a code

3 minutes ago, tunedude said:

I've had my other optimate charger on in the past just using crocodile clips and never had any issues

 

I feel it's more been I've had the battery disconnected when I've fiddled about with the connections which has caused the issue.

 

I've changed batteries on other vehicles and never had any bother. Only thing it usually does is wipes the time and the radio needs a code

 

I am pretty sure thst Octavia5's post #3 is the reason why you have warning lights on the dash. I lifted the cover in my battery on Saturday and saw the warning label on the battery and the earthing post near the negative terminal.  Perhaps a more knowledgeable member on this forum, local to you with VCDS might be able to reset them, if you're unable to clear them with a simple disconnect/reconnect. I am sure a lot of people have done well-meaning similar mistakes, hopefully it won't cost you anything to resolve.  

Its all to do with the latest voltage sensing and protection circuits, there is a detailed explanation somewhere on line but I cant find it at the moment. Also when you replace a battery there are specific  procedures you have to follow to ensure the ECU and Stop Start functions work properly - does not stop the car being used just upsets the monitoring systems, again its explained somewhere in the ether (or the WWW as people know it these days)

Ok, so one of the main reasons I've caused the issues I'm getting is because I've added power to the battery which the car wasn't expecting. Fair enough

 

From what I can gather as well, if you have you battery swapped, you need to basically 'tell' the car you've put a new battery into it. Have I got this right?

 

As if that's the case, what I plan on doing is whipping the battery out of the car, get it set up on the work bench will the charger and then when I'm back on the road with the car, it'll be going in for a service, so they can reset all the techno guff which needs to be

On 6/12/2017 at 19:18, Kenny R said:

 

 

 

 

 

I think this is appropriate, though I would have thought putting the same battery back in it would recognise?

Just a quick update on this 'issue'

 

A quick drive up and down the road and it reset itself.

 

Another read through the skoda literature and I can't find anything about this potential issue when touching the battery. The most the manual says in no uncertain terms, is go your skoda garage and get them to touch the battery............and if you need a vcds unit to change the BEM details the car knows, I can see why.

 

I know a lot of things on modern cars have to be fettled by a computer to get working, but a battery?!?!

 

 

 

 

Be wiper blades next 

I think It's as simple as the car needing to know the capacity (Ah) rating of a replacement battery.

State of charge is calculated from resting voltage as a percentage of available charge remaining. It needs to know whether that is - say - 80% of 70Ah or 80% of 90Ah in order to manage the loads appropriately.

the Optimate is designed to be connected to the battery while the battery is still connected to the car. It can detect voltage leaks/drops in your electrics and warn you if they are affecting your battery. 

 

Im guessing you were fitting the permanent connectors and damaged the posts? Ive always connected it inline without disconnecting any battery in any car i've had and done ZERO damage. Passat CC, Golf TDI, GTI, several Clios Sports and never had any issues.

 

Quote

Diagnoses, recovers, charges, checks & maintains your battery automatically for months.  All major battery manufacturers recommend maintaining starter batteries FULLY CHARGED during periods of non-use. OptiMate 6 is totally safe for months-long connection and maintenance of irregularly or seasonally used batteries even while still connected to the vehicle. 

 

taken from their website...

58 minutes ago, tunedude said:

Just a quick update on this 'issue'

 

A quick drive up and down the road and it reset itself.

 

Another read through the skoda literature and I can't find anything about this potential issue when touching the battery. The most the manual says in no uncertain terms, is go your skoda garage and get them to touch the battery............and if you need a vcds unit to change the BEM details the car knows, I can see why.

 

I know a lot of things on modern cars have to be fettled by a computer to get working, but a battery?!?!

 

 

 

 

Be wiper blades next 

 

 

You don't need a BEM code, those are old hat & not required now......you do need OBD11pro or VCDS...

 

 

& various high end VAG (say Audi A8 & VW Passat) & others have required telling the car that a new battery has been fitted for years now......just now on a mid/low priced car...& basically the electronics are so complex the system needs to monitor the battery condition to prevent more draw than supply.

 

Quote from my thread on MK7 forum:-

 

VCDS coding required:-
From the Main screen:-
Select Control Module [Select]
[19-CAN Gateway]
Advanced Functions screen:-
[Adaptions-10]
New value choice screen:-
Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery.
IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity,
IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology,
IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer,
IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number,

Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are, Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!
 

 

 

 

Edited 19 November, 20178 yr by fabdavrav

As various, above, re not connecting direct to the terminals - the battery cover and terminals have warning pictograms, I think, as well. I can't recall where I read it, but it also has something to do with the stop/start circuitry. The battery on my Mk3 TDI is an Advanced Glass Mat one (factory) and I use a C-tek charger which has a specific AGM cycle. I've charged it twice (winter top-up, battery wasn't flat) without any problem. I'm not familiar with the Optimate, but does it have an AGM setting? I found the C-tek site very helpful.

I think it's just been me treating the car like I've treated the rest and forgetting cars are always moving on.

 

The optimate is programmed to do loads of battery types.

 

Like I say, the problem has been me fitting the permanent clips on both terminals rather than following what the manual says 

9 minutes ago, TheOctaviator said:

As various, above, re not connecting direct to the terminals - the battery cover and terminals have warning pictograms, I think, as well. I can't recall where I read it, but it also has something to do with the stop/start circuitry. The battery on my Mk3 TDI is an Advanced Glass Mat one (factory) and I use a C-tek charger which has a specific AGM cycle. I've charged it twice (winter top-up, battery wasn't flat) without any problem. I'm not familiar with the Optimate, but does it have an AGM setting? I found the C-tek site very helpful.

 

I retro fitted a big AGM to mine & have had C-tek chargers for years now...just 3yrs ago I sold my old one & got a new one which does AGM & 12v supply......makes fitting a new battery & VCDS coding so much easier...