Jump to content

power for amplifier


Recommended Posts

i'm thinking of getting one of these units for siren/lights (grill and rear window)

amplifier

where does this get power from? does it tap into a spare fuse in the passenger seat behind the glovebox or would it need fed directly from the fusebox in the engine bay?

problem is have already piggybacked a couple of fuses to run front and rear dashcam

 

thanks for any advice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have warning lights & a siren currently fitted to my Mk2 vrs and I would highly recommend taking power direct from the battery and fuse accordingly.

 

That box looks like it will have all the relays etc. already inside it to control the power to each function so just a direct 12 volt supply will do the job.

I'm going to guess you will be fitting that in the boot?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

depends on the draw of the amp and what you have connected. I have a 1300W PDX alpine amp and it requires a 0 gauge wire to run two 12" type Rs. Anything smaller and it will trip out.

 

Most smaller setups can run your -ve from the fuse box, there are several free slots

 

 

fuseocty.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I says it has three switched outlets, fused at 20A each so you need to change these to smaller fuses to suit the loads you actually use.

I suggest you run the supply from one of the spare fuse locations in the battery fusebox.

 

It may seem daft at first sight, but to avoid fires the fuses have to be rated for the cable size they supply and not the load current. Each load needs a smaller fuse which is sized for the cable it supplies. The cables have to be sized for the load current.

 

Look at a car wiring diagram and you will see what I mean - it is prescribed in regulations.

Check the cable size of the unit you are buying (if it has a supplied cable) and fuse accordingly. I doubt very much if it could supply the 60A of the auxiliary switched loads.

 

Common mistake on cars is to connect directly to battery with a fuse only at the other end of the cable. Short to ground on a sharp edge equals a cable fire.

Second mistake is to use a cable sized for load but use a fuse at the battery fusebox rated for a much larger current than the cable size. Result as before, the cable burns out on small overloads.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, encephalopathy said:

i think i will get an auto electrician to install it once i decide what i need.

thanks!

 Always the best way, I got someone else to fit all the equipment on my car even though could have done it myself.

Out of curiosity what do you use your car for?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i run my system on a separate 1000CCA leisure battery (blue top) and have it connect via a split charged system i also upgraded the alternator to 100amp.  I have connected power lines to 100A fuses, similar to the advice from pikpilot. granted this would not be needed in a skoda unless you were fitting a monster system.

 

as above get it done professionally pay a bit more but have that peace of mind

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 28/11/2017 at 13:01, OliR said:

 Always the best way, I got someone else to fit all the equipment on my car even though could have done it myself.

Out of curiosity what do you use your car for?  

i will be doing some prehospital  work with the local BASICS/ambulance service

BASICS

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just beware that connecting things direct to the battery can lead to a battery drain that the car cannot 'see' It sometimes senses the battery drain it cannot account for and throws up errors. Probably not what you want under blues and twos on a shout.

 

Best to try and work something from the fuse box. If you have a lot of stuff you could use a separate fused junction box off one of the heavier circuits. Even with the dashcams, a 100w horn and a few LEDs should not be more than 10amps or so. Not like the beacons, halogen repeaters and compressor two-tones that used to be fitted.

 

Good luck with it though, driving a private unmarked car under an exemption these days is a minefield

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.