Hi everyone. 

 

I've test driven a 2016 Vrs and wow, amazing. I'd like to buy but I love my music, but not at really high volumes. As many have noticed on here, the sub is leaving oomph. I've read through as many posts as I can but got a bit stuck. I can buy pre made enclosures for a new sub. 

 

1. I plan to connect the canton amp to a 10" dual voice coil subwoofer eg pioneer. But people mention it has to be a sensitive sub. Does this mean I want a 4 or 8 ohm? 

 

2. Other than soldering any appropriate connectors, will it be like for like when wiring the sub? Never installed a dual voice one before. 

 

3. Plus, what approximate rms would be a minimum for it? 

 

Thanks in advance, I really liked the vrs but this is the only issue for me. 

OK, by all accounts the Canton Sub has 2 x 6" 8ohm subs, which would mean you need a dual voice coil driver or 2 x 8ohm subs. Given the lack of boot space and the low(ish) output of the amp, I would suggest the former to be the preferred option.

 

I'm just about to purchase a JL Audio 10TW3-D8 and put it into a 0.5cf sub box in place of the Canton sub.

 

http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/10tw3-d8-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92193

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-3-2012-Custom-Fit-MDF-10-Rear-Sub-Box-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Bass/172991996241?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

It's only 82db / 1W sensitive but it should be ok to be driven by the Canton amp to reasonable (not ear- shattering) levels.

 

Seems to be the most elegant option and involves no wiring mods......

 

 

Edited 20 June, 20187 yr by wardth

2 hours ago, wardth said:

OK, by all accounts the Canton Sub has 2 x 6" 8ohm subs, which would mean you need a dual voice coil driver or 2 x 8ohm subs. Given the lack of boot space and the low(ish) output of the amp, I would suggest the former to be the preferred option.

 

I'm just about to purchase a JL Audio 10TW3-D8 and put it into a 0.5cf sub box in place of the Canton sub.

 

http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/10tw3-d8-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92193

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-3-2012-Custom-Fit-MDF-10-Rear-Sub-Box-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Bass/172991996241?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

It's only 82db / 1W sensitive but it should be ok to be driven by the Canton amp to reasonable (not ear- shattering) levels.

 

Seems to be the most elegant option and involves no wiring mods......

 

 

 

Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure if it is best to have a 4 or 8 ohm sub . I honestly don't know and struggling to find an answer. 

 

Please will you post up when you install it? Your plan looks solid and as you say, minimal wiring changes needed. 

Edited 20 June, 20187 yr by Mikevrs2018

Wait, I found a post that said its either 1x4ohm or 2x8ohm and since it is a dual voice coil, 8ohm makes sense. 

 

All the affordable, as in less than £200, subs that are dual coil are 4ohm. Can't find an 8 ohm one. 

46 minutes ago, Mikevrs2018 said:

Wait, I found a post that said its either 1x4ohm or 2x8ohm and since it is a dual voice coil, 8ohm makes sense. 

 

All the affordable, as in less than £200, subs that are dual coil are 4ohm. Can't find an 8 ohm one. 

 

http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/10tw3-d8-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92193

 

With the box, its £380 and AFAIK the ONLY dual 8ohm which will fit. Remember its all too do with loading as well and this box is as near as bang on for this sub to give full frequency response.

 

Edited 20 June, 20187 yr by wardth

1 hour ago, Mikevrs2018 said:

 

Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure if it is best to have a 4 or 8 ohm sub . I honestly don't know and struggling to find an answer. 

 

Please will you post up when you install it? Your plan looks solid and as you say, minimal wiring changes needed. 

 

Tje existing sub is 2 x 8ohm so thats what I would assume is the ideal Replacment. They also do this in 2 x 4ohm........

1 hour ago, wardth said:

 

http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/10tw3-d8-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92193

 

With the box, its £380 and AFAIK the ONLY dual 8ohm which will fit. Remember its all too do with loading as well and this box is as near as bang on for this sub to give full frequency response.

 

When do you plan to fit yours? 

I know I'm being naive but wouldn't 4ohm subs be better? Less impedance /resistance would make it easier for the amp to drive? Less impedance, more Watts. What am I missing though as it can't be this simple? 

 

I'm reading the below

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-dyt5l1o6vKY/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_dual.html

 

It says... "For example, an amplifier that produces 75 watts RMS x 2 channels at 4 ohms would double its power to 150 watts x 2 with a 2-ohm load. DVC subwoofers (particularly the dual 2-ohm models) give you the flexibility to wring every bit of power out of this type of amplifier."

Edited 20 June, 20187 yr by Mikevrs2018

2 hours ago, Mikevrs2018 said:

I know I'm being naive but wouldn't 4ohm subs be better? Less impedance /resistance would make it easier for the amp to drive? Less impedance, more Watts. What am I missing though as it can't be this simple? 

 

I'm reading the below

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-dyt5l1o6vKY/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_dual.html

 

It says... "For example, an amplifier that produces 75 watts RMS x 2 channels at 4 ohms would double its power to 150 watts x 2 with a 2-ohm load. DVC subwoofers (particularly the dual 2-ohm models) give you the flexibility to wring every bit of power out of this type of amplifier."

 

Yes but it also draws more current from an amplifier; more current, more power draw, heat etc. 

I'm beginning to think it would be simpler and of comparable price to wire in an old fashioned sub. Speaker level input from the front woofers into a class d amp and detach the canton sub

 

 

On 21/06/2018 at 09:02, Mikevrs2018 said:

I'm beginning to think it would be simpler and of comparable price to wire in an old fashioned sub. Speaker level input from the front woofers into a class d amp and detach the canton sub

 

 

 

Potential for issues there; firstly breaking into the wiring for the front speakers. Bear in mind this will be a non-filtered feed so you'll get all the midrange as well. Also the amp is fed via optical link so you'd have to go in via the amp outputs under the seat and also you'd need a "speaker-to-line-level" convertor. Most of the ones available are crap quality. Then off course you'd need a power feed to the amp etc etc. Oh and finally you'd need to strap the output of the amp because its expecting to see the load of the woofers. I'd say some large wattage resistors would be required.....

 

I'd say thats a much more involved and less elegant way of doing things......

Edited 22 June, 20187 yr by wardth

I broke into the wires successfully for my ford focus and used a phone amp with speaker level input. Worked really well. 

 

This however is something of far better quality so I think I'd probably just pay a garage to do the wiring to a regular 4 ohm sub. 

I'm looking to replace the Canton system in my Karoq with something that's less harsh and less distorted. I'd love to know if anyone has replaced any of the components of the Canton system and how it affects the operation of the Columbus head unit. Thanks.