nta16

Yeap, kooky but very well explained and demonstrated and well presented. As always with these things looks a lot easier than it actually is and seeing a few vids from others on the same stuff highlights how good his vids actually are, strikes a very good level too. Yes very good idea to know as much about what you're buying as you can but sometimes it's best not to show your whole hand as so many car dealers can be less than great an/or honest. Anyone decent and honest doesn't usually have to look too hard for work in the car trade as they're so sought after. I'm very happy to deal with those that take lunch breaks (staff at least) and don't open at the weekends, finding them and being able to get booked in with them is the problem. Many specialist experts I've found to be either not experts and/or con-men. Personally if possible I'd prefer an all-female workforce garage, of course not all women are good and honest but much more likely than with men, in my decades of being a bloke with various cars. Good luck to you, may your car issues be few and far between, they can be an extreme waste of money and in real life terms worthless, I'm way passed the point of looking at the state of the centre caps, keep then with a layer of debris and the imperfections are a lot less noticeable. 😄

Most things are well over engineered safety wise on a car but it's the small stuff that can cause big problems. If you are new to driving then you're probably more conscious in many ways of possible issues than those of us who took our test many decades back (last century, last millennium) and more rely on experience (well what we can remember) and what concerns us and what doesn't. Safety can be about not relying on the (excessive) safety "features" and driver "aids" and "assists" in modern day cars (and keeping off the infotainment/SatNav/phone). As a new driver just passed your test your driving education in a way really begins now. For the car, read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' for driver's maintenance and to save time, hassle and money on unnecessary trips to the Dealerships, garages, mechanics, auto-electricians and tyre places. The VW aren't the best, or the worst, and are a good place to start at (sometimes until you have more experience). If you read and refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you will know more than many long term owners of the model. And the boys and girls giving info on Aunty Google and YT don't always do a good job of such or can be wrong (as we all can). Here's some kooky but very well explained and presented video that remind of some of what's in the Owner's Manual but also other tips, these relate specifically to the MK3 Fabia but others cover other subjects and models, all well explained and presented to learn from or remind, in my opinion. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 HTH. (must remember to view today's video and wind him up)

IF I remember any work done where a wheel or wheels are removed I remove the wheel bolt (bloody stupid bolts instead of studs) cover caps and centre caps if required and don't refit them until I have checked the bolts haven't been over torqued or hammered on with the rattle-gun and then driven for about 30 miles after my check to check again, then the covers and caps go back on. No cover or caps and I still need to check. A previous car (with sensible wheel studs) the nuts only torqued up to 45 lb ft (60Nm?) and tyre places would default set to at 70/80ft lb (110Nm?) and despite me telling them verbally and giving it to them in writing two places pulled a stud by staying in default mode, very annoying, twice.

Well for a start if no charge was mentioned then I'd take that as a con, they should ring you to confirm any chargeable work before they do it to get your permission and out of common courtesy at least let you know. If it's not too late if you paid by card then ring the card people and see what they say, if they can suspend or cancel payment. As you say the information you gave the Dealership wasn't fully taken into consideration and real diagnostics not done. I too would suspect any recent computer updates, and I'd have thought an error code for speed sensor but perhaps it's too intermittent and short duration and/or like on many other occasions I'm wrong. I've never seen any proof from various members visits to Dealerships that any scanner is even plugged in a decent place will send you a before and after report, of course scam artists could just unplug something to give fault codes or other side delete error codes knowing full well they will return with use of the car. An intermittent fault is a pain to track down but a high charge and dismissal is very bad service especially from supposed trained (Dealership) experts in your car. A word of warning about generally buying sensors, buy those that others know work long term on your particular car, these may be lower price or higher price, factory original or not, some sensor need to be very specific to the (VW) module/computer system (and updates?) others can be a lot more general or generic. And then it might not be the sensor at fault, something else might just need cleaning (and/lubricating), wires and connects not clean, secure and protected but if you do change a sensor do make sure all connections and wires are all clean, secure and protected. I loathe working on our car(s) and only started doing so again (not that I know or can do much) after paying professionals to do (some simple) jobs that I then had to tidy up or adjust or completely redo again and thought I might as well do the work myself in the first place and if I don't do well at least I'm cheap and I know I can (usually) always find myself to get it sorted again. Good luck.

It may be that different and/or newer models might take longer and longer to go to (partial perhaps) sleep. I've recharged the battery on my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia with bonnet open but car locked (but not bonnet catch shut) and with car unlocked and I've not noticed a difference in time but I haven't noted any readings or lengths of time as a comparison. Even if recharging at what many would take as acceptable level of state of charge at 4-amps it still takes many hours to fully recharge the battery to full (or "FUL" on my Ring charger) and I know the VW system will get it back to say 80% but it's still worthwhile to me to get the battery to its 100% for battery and alternator (and mpg that I'm not that bothered about in an overweight, overwheel'd, overtyr'd modern car with 5 seats and only me in it).

GT85 is a good penetrating/releasing fluid and longer lasting lubricant (and smells nice) shake the can, spray and leave to soak as long as possible, 24+ hours is good. - https://gt85.co.uk/ How stupid and lazy (but not unexpected) of the Dealership to just plug in a scanner and only go by 'what the computer sez', that's not diagnosis - and a scan tool is only one diagnosis tool, the human senses and where available brain can also be used as well as other tools like multimeters. Have a look here for how to diagnosis wheel senor and other issues and how to check and cross reference your findings to confirm diagnosis, unlike many Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians, and he admits his mistakes unlike those. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354 Good luck.

Yeap always a gamble with information from any source (bloke on internet or down the pub) including manufacturers, as all sources and databases have errors and omissions. It's too dark and too much hassle for me to try to pop the centre cap out with the wheel on the car but if yours are already damaged then tomorrow you could pop one out to measure the hole (good luck with the .1 mm) or look for VW part number. Let us know how you get on and it might confirm that size too, good luck.

It might depend on what wheels you have and if they're factory original. The ones on my wife's car are plastic, black with silver Škoda emblem and edge ban. If you take one of yours out you can measure it and/or on the back there might be a VW part number to look up from and get comparisons for. Or have a look here, 15" seem to be 57.1 mm hole - "Center Bore / Hub Bore: 57.1 mm" - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2015/

That's why you buy from somewhere that knows what they're talking about and are reliable and honest (unlike VW) Classic Car LEDs dealers with the VW Transporter (T5) Camper lot so has some experience with VWs. You can ask what's in the bulbs on offer, on the site it used to warn about VWs being awkward but speaking to the chap reassured me. The factory fitted 21w incandescent DLR bulb on my wife's car had a singed socket, which the car's computer system hadn't detected or warned about when I noticed how discoloured the bulb was. Yet twice the same system gave a warning and amber triangle of doom for a brake light, then just went away of it's own accord, first time I checked and changed the bulb just in case, second time I just left it as one of the VW computer's brain-farts and it hasn't returned since. But it's another reason I don't go for the very bright bulbs as their bottoms can get as hot as the incandescent bulbs which takes away one of the LED advantages to my mind. Saw the back of 74 plate something modern oversized "small" "SUV" tank thing, great display of bright rear lights even on bright sunny day but when the brake lights came on you could see the indicator light - brilliant aesthetic design maybe but not practical.

😄 Sorry, I'm very I forgot the link then thought I'd posted it. Classic Car LEDs is a good and knowledgeable company selling good products (cheaper Chinese crap is of course widely available) I put LED daylight running bulbs into my wife's 2015 Fabia from them and it was fit and forget. I prefer to reduce electric load on the thin wires and lower quality VW bulb fittings so I'd never go for the superbright to blind other road users and pedestrians LED bulbs. If you want/need a chat phone them. Warm white LED bulbs are a lot nearer incandescent appearance but brighter. Classic Car LEDs Ltd. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ Good luck let us know how you get on (I've no idea what's on a 2011 Superb, been so mean headlights fashions with the car manufacturers and the German marques have usually been one step more (unnecessarily) over-complex than others.

Have you looked in other forums on Briskoda for more info, perhaps 'Classic SKODA Projects' or 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman'. Favorits would be nearer Estelles than Felicias I'd have thought but VW engine swaps are common across ranges of VW brands, a 130 might be pre-VW takeover though. 'Classic SKODA Projects' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/ 'Classic SKODA Projects' or 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/ HTH.

You might be better looking and/or asking in the relevant Superb forum(s) on this site (also, do bear in some people aren't as good as measuring as others ETA: I don't mean tavs, and I've no idea, he might work to laboratory standards for all I know ). - Škoda Superb forums - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ HTH.

You can give a shout out to a member by putting an @ symbol at the start of their members name, example - @nta16 = @nta16 or if you Quote them in your post. If it's a bug it must be with your machine or programs/Apps as it's only your posts, I have a recent bug with downloading pdfs from posts but others don't so it's not the Briskoda site with the bug. I don't know what you see on your machine but I just use the white reply box under the last post (bottom of page for me) or top of the thread page there is a button which is a green box with white text "← Reply to this topic". Hope that helps.

It was DerekU that gave all the details. Do you have any idea why you get duplicate " Quote in your posts. To quote a section of a post you can highlight the bit you want to quote then you should get a black box with "Quote selection - as an example - Or for the whole post you can use the " Quote button.

Prevention is better than cure, if you wait until the damage is too much then you'll not get the best recovery. I'm not sure, but even unlocked most things will go to sleep after a time anyway/ - no doubt someone will know and even perhaps have proof - ? @rum4mo ?