Hello All,

 

I have a Fabia vRS MK1 2007 with blt and KKK turbo. So far, car is stock just with a intake from Seat Cupra 160pd. I am planing to do a stage 1 remap, but prior to the same i would like to know what i am getting myself into. At the moment the car is  around 84k miles, with a revisited turbo at 55k. Clutch is stock as well and keeping up good for the moment.

 

I was able to go through the site and the most useful one i found is :

 

 

 

At the momet i have the following things that i would like to clear for myself and i am hoping for you guys to help me out
 

1. I would like to know what are the safe hp and nm i could expect, so i can run safe?

2. In the above theme there is a post that there is a difference in the clutch from the pre and facelift? Is the same really true?

 

 

Edited 8 September, 20187 yr by georgemilev

You should ask for a torque limited remap to help the clutch last longer, this will still allow the engine to benefit from the extra power and revs a remap will give you.

You can expect around 165BHP and 300NM torque from such a map.

The standard clutches are all rated the same.

13 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

You should ask for a torque limited remap to help the clutch last longer, this will still allow the engine to benefit from the extra power and revs a remap will give you.

You can expect around 165BHP and 300NM torque from such a map.

The standard clutches are all rated the same.

 

Hey,

 

Thanks for the heads up!  Regarding your suggestion you wrote 300 nm, but the car now is 310 as a stock one. Should you meant to say 400? If all standard clutches are the same and according to p-torque they can handle up to 400 nm, i i will ask the mapper to give me around 350 - 370, or even lower, so i can be on the safe side. How does that sound to you?

Edited 8 September, 20187 yr by georgemilev

Agree with Sepulchrave whoever you get to map it make sure they map it clutch friendly as to much torque will lunch it. And he probably meant lb/ft not nm as most on forums will refer to lb/ft. My first mapped PD130 was 178bhp with 300lb/ft, the clutch was okay (IMO) with that but I didn't drive like a muppet and launch it everywhere. As far as I'm aware no differences between the clutches only in the gear ratios on the boxes, earlier ones having the long ratio and latter short ratio. As yours is 2007 I'd assume, if it's not been changed at some point, that it's a short ratio box.

If you want to go to stage 2, at some point, then I'd do most of the work first of all, clutch, FMIC etc before having it mapped as you'd have to pay for mapping again. All depends on how far you want to go and how much you want to spend. 

Edited 8 September, 20187 yr by Skoda_Saint

55 minutes ago, Skoda_Saint said:

Agree with Sepulchrave whoever you get to map it make sure they map it clutch friendly as to much torque will lunch it. And he probably meant lb/ft not nm as most on forums will refer to lb/ft. My first mapped PD130 was 178bhp with 300lb/ft, the clutch was okay (IMO) with that but I didn't drive like a muppet and launch it everywhere. As far as I'm aware no differences between the clutches only in the gear ratios on the boxes, earlier ones having the long ratio and latter short ratio. As yours is 2007 I'd assume, if it's not been changed at some point, that it's a short ratio box.

If you want to go to stage 2, at some point, then I'd do most of the work first of all, clutch, FMIC etc before having it mapped as you'd have to pay for mapping again. All depends on how far you want to go and how much you want to spend. 

 

Thanks, yes I did mean 300 lbft, not NM.

3 hours ago, Skoda_Saint said:

Agree with Sepulchrave whoever you get to map it make sure they map it clutch friendly as to much torque will lunch it. And he probably meant lb/ft not nm as most on forums will refer to lb/ft. My first mapped PD130 was 178bhp with 300lb/ft, the clutch was okay (IMO) with that but I didn't drive like a muppet and launch it everywhere. As far as I'm aware no differences between the clutches only in the gear ratios on the boxes, earlier ones having the long ratio and latter short ratio. As yours is 2007 I'd assume, if it's not been changed at some point, that it's a short ratio box.

If you want to go to stage 2, at some point, then I'd do most of the work first of all, clutch, FMIC etc before having it mapped as you'd have to pay for mapping again. All depends on how far you want to go and how much you want to spend. 

Hey Guys,

I would like to thank you again for joining! Yes, you are correct that i need to decide what to do. I am in the process of the same. Worst case scenario i will map it to stage 1, drive it for a while, then go stage 2 and re-map it again.

My original MK1 had 180BHP & 299 lb /ft remap with pd 160 intake & panel filter,  even after I sold it  a new later owner contacted me about my origonal mods and when I asked about how it was he had 250k miles on it, ( still with my remap) and it had a clutch change around 180K miles. 
Seems like provided you don't rag it, service regularly clutch will last.

If you do a stage 2  then when I had my original people were playing safe and upgrading the Turbo, Clutch, Intercoolers, and most important - Brakes.  Technology  and previous experimenting will probably advise other components as well.

 

 

Edited 8 September, 20187 yr by lfc958

38 minutes ago, lfc958 said:

My original MK1 had 180BHP & 299 lb /ft remap with pd 160 intake & panel filter,  even after I sold it  a new later owner contacted me about my origonal mods and when I asked about how it was he had 250k miles on it, ( still with my remap) and it had a clutch change around 180K miles. 
Seems like provided you don't rag it, service regularly clutch will last.

If you do a stage 2  then when I had my original people were playing safe and upgrading the Turbo, Clutch, Intercoolers, and most important - Brakes.  Technology  and previous experimenting will probably advise other components as well.

 

 

 

When did you do the remap? 180k miles with the stock clutch is very, very good. Your turbo is the same as mine - kkk?

Remap was an AMD one who took the ECU number and created a map specifically for the car - it was a one click box sent to me with instructions on how to switch maps between original and upgrade supplied- I had done around 10k miles.  Not sure what original was as it was a 53 plate.

 

I replaced my original clutch at 150k miles. Still had some meat left and was fine with stock map but any hint of increasing it and it just slipped. But I was please it lasted to 150k. DMF was still perfect as well but changed it anyway.

 

The clutch is the limiting factor so like others have said if you get a remap then try and get one that isn’t OTT on the low down torque. You want someone who writes their own maps and not just buy them in.

Faboka,

Yes, of course. The remap will be a custom one for sure. I will ask the tuner for a clutch friendly one. Speaking of a clutch... besides going on Sachs Performance which is about 750 euro, what is the cheapest option i could go with including a flywheel?

I just put an oem LUK clutch and Dmf in. I’ll be happy if I get 100k miles from it.

Faboka,

You mean to remap to stage 1 and if my clutch starts to slip to get an oem LUK and dmf? If it will go 100k miles i am happy with that :P

Oem luk or Sachs. But yeah go for a low torque map but also budget for a clutch at some point.

On 08/09/2018 at 21:57, georgemilev said:

Faboka,

You mean to remap to stage 1 and if my clutch starts to slip to get an oem LUK and dmf? If it will go 100k miles i am happy with that :P

 

I asked for mine to be 270lbft. Don't have an exact number as it wasn't custom mapped and it was many years ago. Was mapped at 21-22K, now on 120K.

I developed a habit of hoofing the throttle suddenly when traffic cleared on the motorway, the sudden shove in the back is habit forming  . Eventually, the clutch started slipping when I did this in 5th and 6th gear. So I try not to now. Nowadays, the clutch will slip if I hoof it through the smaller roads. It starts off OK but as it heats up it starts to slip. I'd hazard that a standard suspension car won't suffer as much as you can't really hit the go pedal as hard and as fast without it wobbling like a jelly.

Thanks to all the folks for the help! Highly appreciated!