Advice needed! New wheels/tyres for 2013 skoda octavia mk2

[agetmant]

Good day all,

 

Im looking to upgrade my stock look and get bigger wheels and tyres. I'd like to go with 17" wheels and perhaps 225 wide tyres ? Unsure about other specs that would go well with stock suspension height. Any ideas and personal experiances are  greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[fatzy]

Some things have to be right when changing wheels. A supplier or a Skoda dealer will most probably help you. Original Skoda rims are of good quality, but also VW and Audi rims can be used. Just check the datas given below.

17" is a good compromise between sportiness and comfort. Your car can use 225/45-17 tyres. Make sure the speed and load indexes matches (91W) or higher.

7 - 8 inch wide rims will suit your car. On aftermarket rims an offset (ET) of around 45 often is found and can be used. Your car has a hub center diameter of 57.1 mm and rims should have same center bore. If not, you must install rings. Also check that rims have load capacity matching your car max. weight. Finally the bolts must suit the new rims (tapered or rounded heads), the bolts you have now may be incorrect for a new set of rims.

I had these for a period, Audi RS4 (I think) replica rims on my 2010 Octavia. Not the best quality, but I like the look. These are 7.5x17 with little wider tyres: 235/45-17. Sorry, the picture isn't the best.

 

Edited 12 February, 2019 by fatzy

[agetmant]

11 minutes ago, fatzy said:

Some things have to be right when changing wheels. A supplier or a Skoda dealer will most probably help you. Original Skoda rims are of good quality, but also VW and Audi rims can be used. Just check the datas given below.

17" is a good compromise between sportiness and comfort. Your car can use 225/45-17 tyres. Make sure the speed and load indexes matches (91W) or higher.

7 - 8 inch wide rims will suit your car. On aftermarket rims an offset (ET) of around 45 often is found and can be used. Your car has a hub center diameter of 57.1 mm and rims should have same center bore. If not, you must install rings. Also check that rims have load capacity matching your car max. weight. Finally the bolts must suit the new rims (tapered or rounded heads), the bolts you have now may be incorrect for a new set of rims.

I had these for a period, Audi RS4 (I think) replica rims on my 2010 Octavia. Not the best quality, but I like the look. These are 7.5x17 with little wider tyres: 235/45-17. Sorry, the picture isn't the best.

 

Thank you for the long reply, great info, I appreciate it.

[agetmant]

Should an ET 35-38 become a problem? Most of the wheels I've looked at are around those numbers..Willitfit shows that the setup with 225/45/17 tyres and  7" wide wheels with an ET 35 the outer rim would poke out about 24.7mm..according to this it should be alright? Or am I missing something else..

[fatzy]

There isn't a clear answer to that. A extra poke of almost 25 mm is a lot, and you increase the track width with 50 mm. They will probably fit on the car, and at the rear it will be a nice fit.  But it's a little too deviation from original setup. You will strain the suspension, wheel bearings and steering more, and you will get more dirt on the sides. And then comes what is legal in your country, in Norway there are regulations which say how much you can change the original dimensions. You also tamper with the steering geometry, like the scrub radius (it gets really getting technical now but it has impact on driveability of the car). And that is not good.

But many use ET35 and are happy with that.

 

Edited 16 February, 2019 by fatzy

[agetmant]

Thanks for the imput. Im going to take a look at some 17" wheels tomorrow with an ET of 48 instead. 

Edited 16 February, 2019 by agetmant

[agetmant]

Bad post..

Edited 22 February, 2019 by agetmant
numberplate

[agetmant]

This is what I ended up with..17" rims with an ET 48. While the fronts are kind of perfectly aligned with the arches, the rear ones are tucked by a few cm. Would be trouble if the fronts were in the 30 range..

Tyres are 225/50/17 though. Speedo reading is much better. When I used to have a 10 kph difference at 100 kph, now it's only 2-3 kph, meaning if the speedo reads 100, then the actual is 97-98. So far I'm pleased.