Hi, Just realised that when I lock the doors both driver side doors remain open? Checked the fuses and fuse no 23 which according to the manual is central locking is missing?? Is there an obvious reason why this has been removed?

further to my original post, wife is adamant that everything was working (despite no fuse?!). Button centre console doesnt work, not sure if it ever did. I can lock the drivers door with the key but rear passenger door remains open. Should the red light on the drivers door flash when the car is locked? It's a 2012 Yeti Elegance.

The LED will flash, but only when the car has correctly locked.

 

Replace the missing fuse and try it.

Any chance the fuseholder is mirrored or rotated relative to the diagram in the manual? They are often lazy about supplying appropriate info for RHD cars where the same parts are sometimes in different orientations.

26 minutes ago, Tech1e said:

The LED will flash, but only when the car has correctly locked.

 

Replace the missing fuse and try it.

The led does flash but driver side doors still remain open. Just discovered how to lock the rear passenger door using emergency procedure. What size fuse does the central locking use?

22 minutes ago, Wino said:

Any chance the fuseholder is mirrored or rotated relative to the diagram in the manual? They are often lazy about supplying appropriate info for RHD cars where the same parts are sometimes in different orientations.

I thought of that but there are missing fuses no matter the orientation.

15A I think, should be the in position 23.

 

2 minutes ago, boatpuller said:

What size fuse does the central locking use?

 

Doesn't really matter just to see if it works, fit a 20 amp in there and see what happens.

55 minutes ago, boatpuller said:

? Is there an obvious reason why this has been removed?

TO me that suggests that it keeps blowing because no-one has fixed the actual fault. Beyond that, they're only golden not crystal...

Fuses and fuse locations for right hand drive Yeti.
 

 

This is likely to be the notorious door loom issue. The wires break in the loop, due to repeated flexing, between the door and frame causing all sorts of issues with locking, windows etc. It is quite likely they could also give a short and blow the fuse?

 

The loop was extended in later cars to try and solve the issue, but I have seen mention of even the improved version failing. This has affected a large number of skoda and vw cars.

 

It costs about £110 for the loom plus fitting cost per door, if you can't do it yourself.

Edited 3 September, 20196 yr by kenfowler3966

This car is quickly losing its shine! Problems are multiplying daily. Every time I go round a corner the door locks start to open and close. Yesterday my wife rang me to say the fuel filler wouldnt open. She eventually managed to open it by repeatedly locking and unlocking the car with the remote. Seem to have "lost" 20,000 miles off the mileage display. Everytime I go near the fuse box the locks all start locking and unlocking.

Downloaded VCDS-lite and acquired a generic cable. Set it all up but Yeti isnt listed on the  software??

Think your car is too new for VCDS lite and generic cable, sorry.

checked for compatibility on Ross-Tech website and the Yeti is listed up to 2016. Mine is 2012. I'll delete it and reinstall and see if that makes a difference. Connectivity on generic cable is shown as "poor" so Ill reinstall that too.

I think the generic cable interfaces that work with VCDS lite only work on cars up to 2006/7

 

"VCDS-Lite is our low cost solution for older (pre-2006) VW-Audi Group cars that do not require a direct CAN diagnostic connection.  "

https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/

 

 

I fear your car does require a direct CAN diagnostic connection.

1 hour ago, Wino said:

 

 

 

 

I fear your car does require a direct CAN diagnostic connection.

Ah, so the VCDS-lite will work but only with a direct CAN diagnostic interface?

As I read it, it's the car that mustn't require a direct CAN interface if VCDS lite is to work on it.

Maybe that's the same as what you're saying, but it doesn't sound like it to me. Long story short, it ain't going to work for you as far as I know. You need 'proper' VCDS with a real RossTech cable.